LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Double pumper Hobbs/Wiring Question (Already posted in fuel section with no response)

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Old 01-31-2010, 10:23 AM
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Default Double pumper Hobbs/Wiring Question (Already posted in fuel section with no response)

I'm going to build the Sticky double pumper setup (Great Write-up by the way) for my 96 SS.

Is there any worry damaging/over-working the on rail fuel pressure regulator by running both pumps all the time without a hobbs?

I'm putting this on my Supercharged 383 Stroker with a 10lb pulley. What hobbs switch brand and psi to you recommend?

Each Walbro pump pulls 10.6 Amps per pump sooo according to standards that requires 12 gauge wiring for each pump and 8 gauge if running power for both over one wire. Do you HAVE to run the main power from the + on the Alternator like the Racetronix Hotwire Kit recommends or can I just run it to the + side of the battery and make sure all my connections are top notch.

Last but not least. My stock pump setup is in a bucket. What does the bucket do. The pump intake just sticks throught the bottom of the bucket and pulls from the outside. Does the pump need to stay submerged for overheating purposes?

Thanks in advance,
Brandon
Old 01-31-2010, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by chevydriverz28
I'm going to build the Sticky double pumper setup (Great Write-up by the way) for my 96 SS.

Is there any worry damaging/over-working the on rail fuel pressure regulator by running both pumps all the time without a hobbs?

I'm putting this on my Supercharged 383 Stroker with a 10lb pulley. What hobbs switch brand and psi to you recommend?

Each Walbro pump pulls 10.6 Amps per pump sooo according to standards that requires 12 gauge wiring for each pump and 8 gauge if running power for both over one wire. Do you HAVE to run the main power from the + on the Alternator like the Racetronix Hotwire Kit recommends or can I just run it to the + side of the battery and make sure all my connections are top notch.

Last but not least. My stock pump setup is in a bucket. What does the bucket do. The pump intake just sticks throught the bottom of the bucket and pulls from the outside. Does the pump need to stay submerged for overheating purposes?

Thanks in advance,
Brandon
I have never ran that setup so I cannot answer all your questions, but I can tell you that yes the pump needs to stay submerged, and yes you want to wire it off the alternator.

The bucket not only keeps the pump submerged for cooling but also prevents it from running dry during sharp turns when low on gas - both of which can kill the pump.

The alternator will also be the strongest and best place to wire the fuel pump. When the car is running check the voltage with a multimeter at the battery, at the fuse box, then at the alternator and compare .
Old 01-31-2010, 10:38 AM
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i have no bucket, and i used a wide open throttle switch to activate my 2nd pump, comes on bout 3/4 throttle. and i just wired to the batt. 670 thru a th400 with no probs!
Old 01-31-2010, 07:50 PM
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There are a couple reasons you don't want to run both pumps all the time.

1 is you would need a much better regulator setup than the factory one or even the bolt on factory replacements (which have been known to be troublesome / leaky / dangerous). You would probably have to run something like the aeromotive 13109 and do the fabrication to make it work.

2 is even if you got the regulator situation squared away by running both pumps all the time you will be generating a LOT of heat and that is the main killer of submersed fuel pumps.

My suggestion is to run one off of a wot switch, or a Hobbs switch as you said.
Old 01-31-2010, 09:19 PM
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Thanks for the help everybody, after doing some extra research, i agree heat will be my biggest problem with running both pumps at the same time. Should I get a hobbs switch that kicks in at 4 or 7 psi?
Old 01-31-2010, 09:27 PM
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7 if you have to choose btw those 2 imo
Old 02-01-2010, 06:20 PM
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Thanks Everybody! I have a few more questions if you get a chance to look them over. This is my thought process on how to wire it all up. I know I'm on the right track but need someone to fill in a few blanks:

I've done the research. The pumps are gonna run at 10.6 amps each, requiring 8 gauge wiring for the main wiring harness from the battery, I can use two relays mounted under the rear. Plus I'm going to wire in a 7 psi hobbs switch to engage the secondary pump. Check my thinking though because the Sticky doesn't fill in all the blanks. Should I use 12 volts passing through the hobbs switch to engage a seperate relay for the second pump? I just have one question about how a relay works though. Do I just run 12 volts from my positive connection in the engine bay to one side of the hobbs switch, then run the "switched" side wire to the "engage" side of the relay and ground it on the other side. Then running the heavy gauge wiring to the recieving side of the relay and the other to the power of the additional pump. This is where my experience level has left me stumped because I see a BIG problem with my good concept bad design. I need a 12 volt signal to be delivered to the relay, not a relay melting short which is what I feel i just described. So my second idea is to take the factory signal wire, splice into it, run it to the front to the hobbs switch, then back to the second relay and so on.

Can anyone use they're electrical genius to combine my two half baked wire builds into what they should be. If you could draw me an idea i read broken crayon pretty well, lol.

Thanks in advance,
Brandon



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