LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

355??

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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 10:42 AM
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Default 355??

Someone help me out here....this is definetly cheaper than a 383 stroker or 396 stroker. Could I still make good power with a 355?
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 12:02 PM
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most definetly especially if u have high compression
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 12:06 PM
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Of course!.30 overbores are usually to just space out the cylinder walls during a rebuild, though. If I were to do another rebuild, it'd be a 383
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 12:35 PM
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Do you guys know how expensive that would be to get a .30 overbore??
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by OneMeanZ
Do you guys know how expensive that would be to get a .30 overbore??
I really have no idea... I didn't build my motor, but I'd be interested to hear it as well. I want a 383 so bad... but then again, I also want a bullet proof motor that can run 20 psi with ease... or just a car that make 6 second passes @ 200+ mph... but I don't exactly have the money for that.
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Super Mario
but then again, I also want a bullet proof motor that can run 20 psi with ease... or just a car that make 6 second passes @ 200+ mph... but I don't exactly have the money for that.
Me too Mario!
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 03:50 PM
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Depending on what pistons you go with you can build a 355 for around $1000. That's just for the pistons, rings, bearings and machine work to the block.

On the same token you could build a budget 383 (cast crank, stock rods and TRW forged pistons) for about $1500.

I built a 355 for my Z with TRW forged pistons. The compression with the heads at 51cc and the block at a 0 deck is about 12.34 to 1. With the CC306 cam I am looking for it to his about 420rwhp (which on a good day should net a low 11). If I put a 150 shot on that I could easily run mid-low 10's. The car has awsome driveability also.
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by solid95z
On the same token you could build a budget 383 (cast crank, stock rods and TRW forged pistons) for about $1500.
That's not a bad price at all, but I'd need forged rods for my setup.
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by solid95z

I built a 355 for my Z with TRW forged pistons. The compression with the heads at 51cc and the block at a 0 deck is about 12.34 to 1. With the CC306 cam I am looking for it to his about 420rwhp (which on a good day should net a low 11). If I put a 150 shot on that I could easily run mid-low 10's. The car has awsome driveability also.
Thats exactly what I want how much was it
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 07:11 PM
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If you need forged rods than I wouldn't bother with a cast crank either - and if you are going all forged the price is virtually no different to do 383 vs. 355.
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 97M6Formula
Thats exactly what I want how much was it
I have the TRW (now Speed Pro) 5cc forged pistons which are about $250 with a stock crank and stock rods. The machine work from scratch should cost you between $700-$900 with rings and bearings (depending on the machine shop). So about $1000, give or take. That's just for the bottom end. You still have to buy a set of heads, cam oil pump, timing set, gaskets, etc...

So once you factor all that into the cost of the motor you will still have about $3500 or so (with a GOOD set of heads).

I got a great deal on my heads. How well the heads perform on the motor in comparison to what they flowed (which was bad ***) is what's going to make or break how much power I make and how fast the car is. Heads are where the power is, strokers make the torque. For example, if I were to do a 383 instead of a 355 with everything else exactly the same I would prolly have about another 10-15 rwhp, but 30-35 more rwtq.

Scott
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ChrisB
If you need forged rods than I wouldn't bother with a cast crank either - and if you are going all forged the price is virtually no different to do 383 vs. 355.
Yeah, I know, I have no plans of any rebuilds or displacement changes in the near or even distant future. I was just inquiring. My motor was rebuilt 2k miles ago- forged crank, rods, and pistons.
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Old Dec 24, 2003 | 09:56 PM
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can u still use stock casting heads my chambers are probably a lil less than stock cc since I had em decked when I blew a head gasket but I ported and polished myself so id like to keep the heads since my numbers were better than even people with my cam and lloyd elliots. I was trapping 115mph when most were in the 111-113 rangeand they had sixspeeds with the same mods as me and also I later may go to a bigger cam but for right now I have a new chain(may go to double roller or lt4 extreme) new lifters are on the way. Here this may help.....last winter I did heads/cam :jet hot lts: hardened push rods: 1.6 rrs: new valve springs: portmatched intake: and u know just some cleanup stuff but never touched bottom end

Last edited by 97M6Formula; Dec 24, 2003 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by solid95z
I built a 355 for my Z with TRW forged pistons. The compression with the heads at 51cc and the block at a 0 deck is about 12.34 to 1. With the CC306 cam I am looking for it to his about 420rwhp (which on a good day should net a low 11). If I put a 150 shot on that I could easily run mid-low 10's. The car has awsome driveability also.
Definetly what I want! solid95z, I must say, that is one BAD *** car you have man! And to run low 11s and only pay around 3500, you can't beat that!
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Old Dec 25, 2003 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by OneMeanZ
Definetly what I want! solid95z, I must say, that is one BAD *** car you have man! And to run low 11s and only pay around 3500, you can't beat that!
Thanks man!!! I appreciate it. I try to keep it clean

I haven't run low 11's YET. But that is what I am hoping it will run. I only have about 1200 miles on the motor. 2 guys I know with similar setups (stock bottom end with the same cam I have and similar heads) ran DEEP in the 11's. The flow numbers on my heads were right there with there's so I am optomistic. After I get the car dynoed and make a few passes I think I am going to change the cam out (depending on the rwhp and et). I can make more power with the custom grind I have picked out, it's just how much and is it worth it for the extra power.

We'll see!!!

Last edited by solid95z; Dec 25, 2003 at 11:36 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2003 | 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by OneMeanZ
Someone help me out here....this is definetly cheaper than a 383 stroker or 396 stroker. Could I still make good power with a 355?
Just a thought, but if you are planning on running a boosted car of any sort you will want to buy good forged internals. You will learn that as soon as you blow your fresh new 355 motor you are talking about. If you are going to run a forged motor you might as well step up to a 383 with forged parts because its going to cost you the same. A 355 forgerd crank is pretty hard to find and the companies that do sell them cost the same as a 3.75 inch stroker crank. I have been the route you are thinking and besides I am sure it will probably not be enough power once you get the 355 together. My origional plans were going to be a 355 with a blower or turbo. Now I got a deal on 383 parts and now I need to stop buying all the others crap that I have been purchasing and I need to by a set of AFR heads .
Any ways just a though for you. Some guys prefer to start with heads and a cam. Add a shot of juice and they are happy with it, but I am sure if you are going to be running the motor hard with the 20lb of boost you were mentioning I would not run anything other than a forged motor. Otherwise
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Old Dec 28, 2003 | 11:32 PM
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z28rcn........makes a lot of sense, I think I'm goign to start off with a good head/cam then maybe some juice. Who knows?
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Old Dec 30, 2003 | 04:53 PM
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If your wish is for a potent (400+rwhp), very streetable 355 with a hydraulic cam, then you should talk to Phil at www.advancedinduction.com

He has done the head and cam work on several of my friends cars (daily drivers), and they all have made over 400rwhp either on a stock shortblock or basic 355.
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 09:31 AM
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If your staying naturally aspirated and/or staying below 550 HP at the crank, you'll be safe with the stock LT1 powdered metal rods. Lots of guys have ran that much on the stockers. Just add ARP rod bolts, have them resized during the rebuild. I had my 355 shortblock put together by IRS (internet racer supply) back around Jan 2000. I've raced it monthly ever since then both on the track and elsewhere( <-- if you are a police officer, I'm lying ) and it's done great. Best so far with the old cam/home ported heads was 12.0 @ 111 mph. Adding a 100 shot of n2o brought the best to 11.1 @ 121mph. I now have new bigger cam and pro-ported heads. No times with the new stuff yet. If you have the extra cash, go for the 383. If not, I think you'll be VERY happy with the 355 anyway.
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 03:08 PM
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yeah I think next winter or later this year im gonna do a fully forged 355 with lt4 intake and afr 195 heads form cmotorsports then im gonna spray the hell out of it
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