sticky 
May 20, 2016, 10:11 AM
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First Mods on stock LT1?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville
First Mods on stock LT1? Hey guys I'm new on the forum just wanted to get opinions on my car. Ive got a 1995 Z28, T56 tranny, only mod is a K&N intake kit. It's not my daily driver and i'd like to get the car into the 11's maybe 10's, but still be street legal if thats possible. I was wondering what are the first things I should do to my engine to add some horsepower and get setup for future mods. My car does have around 155xxx miles, top end rebuild at 133xxx. Does the bottom end need to be rebuilt before I move forward? Thanks.
for boltons just leav the bottom end alone for now...You can start with boltons(there is a sticky that fetures all the boltons)LCAs,LCA relocation brackets,PHB,TA,QA1s,and springs...that should get you in the high 12s with a sticky tire...I woould suggest you get a moser 9 inch with 4.11 gears(the stock 10 bolts are really weak).... later on if your planning on running 11s you can go with a stock 355 bottom end rebuild with ARP hardwear, and for the topend go with LE,or AI both are sponsers on here...That would put at 400+whp with a good rear,clutch,sticky tire,and a good driver you will be in the 11s
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Money? It will take lots of money to get into the 11's. I would say 5k if you aren't using nitrous. This will include the top-end work and porting, bolt-on's, tires, and most of the suspension.
At 155k on the bottom end, I would personally rebuild the bottom end with quality stuff. $1600-$1900 forged rotating assembly + small other things + machine work.. Then top end work. Issue is you will likely need a new rear once you start getting that fast. 10 bolts are really a hit and miss on powerful t56 cars... mostly a miss.. lol
he said the bottom end was rebuilt at 155k..
like i said build a good suspension foundation first-roughly 1500ish.. sfc, lcas, stb, springs and shocks, then you can get into more suspension after this base suspension build is complete
then for drivetrain- alum ds, clutch, flywheel roughly 1000
motor- cam, pp heads to match cam specs, pp intake, 58 mm tb, 42 lb injectors, egr block offs, i presonally would run a nice balancer, ud pulleys, headers, exhaust.. 2500-3000
then blow your bottom end apart and build a strong *** bottom end.. 355. 383, 388.. make sure you forge next time around though and have it balanced- pricing depends
like i said build a good suspension foundation first-roughly 1500ish.. sfc, lcas, stb, springs and shocks, then you can get into more suspension after this base suspension build is complete
then for drivetrain- alum ds, clutch, flywheel roughly 1000
motor- cam, pp heads to match cam specs, pp intake, 58 mm tb, 42 lb injectors, egr block offs, i presonally would run a nice balancer, ud pulleys, headers, exhaust.. 2500-3000
then blow your bottom end apart and build a strong *** bottom end.. 355. 383, 388.. make sure you forge next time around though and have it balanced- pricing depends
no bore & stroke are 2 dif things, .30 over bore = 355. how much it would cost depends on 1) cast or forged 2)new or used 3) machining cost
Power is made in the valvetrain and cylinder heads, not the overall displacement of the motor.
Start with all the bolt-on's, trans/rear end, and suspension mods. Start saving some cash for a built long block with a good top end. Spray the snot out of the old motor until it lets go. Replace with built engine. That's my plan at least.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Rochester NY
Redo the hole intake Throttle body,MAF get an intake and an intake manafold try to get 85mm for everything. then re do the whole exhaust from headders with bigest heders you can get and the rest of the exaust got with 3.5" tubing or 4" whatever then get it tuned with a much bigger cam. you will somke alot off ppl.