Trouble Replacing Valve Springs?! Help!
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 248
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From: Maryland
Trouble Replacing Valve Springs?! Help! So I was able to remove 3 Springs, No problem the lockers came right out with out a problem and things were going smooth till I reached the 4th one. The lockers are stuck in the retainer and the valve and I cant seem to get the loose, would it be okay to grab the valve with some needle nose pliers to try and slide the valve stem up? ----Pic for reference-----> 
Also there is the thing that seems to be connected to the valve stem looks black, that holds the bottom retainer in, how do I remove this piece? ------>
Also there is the thing that seems to be connected to the valve stem looks black, that holds the bottom retainer in, how do I remove this piece? ------>
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bahrain
You will need a helping hand for this one.
Grab the valve stem from the exhaust port with a set of pliers and hold it up.
Now, PLEASE cover the valve spring compressor with a tower before you blow the top of it with a mallet to free up the retainers from the locks. You don't want the tool jumping off the spring as you whack it on the top and injuring you.
If you are installing beehives, be careful with that tool you are using. It has a tendency to slip off the retainers or the coils and you will have a spring flying across the room or worse, into your face. Again, just by using fingers to hold up the valves to keep them closed to get the valve locks in quicker and easier without needing to compress the springs too much.
Good luck.
Grab the valve stem from the exhaust port with a set of pliers and hold it up.
Now, PLEASE cover the valve spring compressor with a tower before you blow the top of it with a mallet to free up the retainers from the locks. You don't want the tool jumping off the spring as you whack it on the top and injuring you.
If you are installing beehives, be careful with that tool you are using. It has a tendency to slip off the retainers or the coils and you will have a spring flying across the room or worse, into your face. Again, just by using fingers to hold up the valves to keep them closed to get the valve locks in quicker and easier without needing to compress the springs too much.
Good luck.
Ran into the same problem but on the very back spring on the driver side head with the engine in the car.. I compressed the spring with the same style tool and smacked the top of the retainer with a wooden handle.. If that doesn't work and you aren't re using the retainers you can use a small hammer.. Just watch the valves..
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TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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....I would suggest putting a socket over the top of valve spring retainer and hitting that with a hammer....
I see your motor is on a stand so this will be easy. you can also air up the cyl to hold the valve up while you hit the socket to knock the spring lose.
those "things" that are black holding down the spring locators are called valve seals....replace them. Put new locators on if changeing spring type and then new valve stem seal.
might want to stuff paper towels in all those openings on the head....you would not be the first to drop a keeper inside the motor if you don't
I see your motor is on a stand so this will be easy. you can also air up the cyl to hold the valve up while you hit the socket to knock the spring lose.
those "things" that are black holding down the spring locators are called valve seals....replace them. Put new locators on if changeing spring type and then new valve stem seal.
might want to stuff paper towels in all those openings on the head....you would not be the first to drop a keeper inside the motor if you don't
like ramair said... you need to check your installed height, also make sure your spring seats (locators) are correct for the spring you're using. Shim accordingly, or use +/- .050 locks
When changing valvesprings with heads on, it is best to use compressed air to keep the valves on their seats. If you do not have access to compressed air a good trick is to run PVC hose through the spark plug hole and run the piston up to TDC. That will also keep the valves from dropping (make sure that the hose is long enough that you don't drop it into the cylinder or you will be pulling a head!). If you get control of the valves it will make it easier to tap the locks loose and to get everything back together.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 42
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From: Wilmington NC
i used the same tool and changed my springs with the heads in the car it was a bitch.
i broke that gay *** handle off because when your really tightning some stiff aftermarket springs down it starts to take a toll on your hands. a 12 point 15mm socket fits on the top of the tool decently, i filled the socket with JB stick weld ( jb weld brand epoxy ) and stuck it on there so i could use a socket to tighten and loosen that tool and it saved me so much time and agrivation since i was doing this with the heads in the car. just fyi. and rotating the motor over to the cylinders TDC might be a little safer than rubber bands when it comes to dropping the valve in the cylinder
i broke that gay *** handle off because when your really tightning some stiff aftermarket springs down it starts to take a toll on your hands. a 12 point 15mm socket fits on the top of the tool decently, i filled the socket with JB stick weld ( jb weld brand epoxy ) and stuck it on there so i could use a socket to tighten and loosen that tool and it saved me so much time and agrivation since i was doing this with the heads in the car. just fyi. and rotating the motor over to the cylinders TDC might be a little safer than rubber bands when it comes to dropping the valve in the cylinder