Bearing wear and piston mark
Bearing wear and piston mark Can anyone tell me what can cause my bearing to wear like this? Also the marking on my piston, whats causing this? its on 1 3 5 7 pistons the most, 2 8 have it but just a little. thanks!
heres the piston
heres the piston
How many miles are on that setup?
Pictures are kinda hard to see (or my laptop screen sucks)
The bearings look like its just wearing the coating off..
As for the piston it is normal for the piston skirts to have those marks because of the way the piston goes up and down and the side wall pressure the rods puts on it...
Pictures are kinda hard to see (or my laptop screen sucks)
The bearings look like its just wearing the coating off..
As for the piston it is normal for the piston skirts to have those marks because of the way the piston goes up and down and the side wall pressure the rods puts on it...
pics are probably hard to see, my camera is garbage... only supposed to be around 7k-8k miles on it. was just unsure what bearings should look like as only the 3 in the pics i showed had the more wear showing. just curious is all. trying to learn a little more, bearing wear etc.
glad to hear that the wear on my skirt is normal. all should be well then
glad to hear that the wear on my skirt is normal. all should be well then
ya the crank looks fine. its one reason i wasnt too worried. figured that would wear too if it was bad signs. ive just never examined bearings before really. just put new ones in.
crank is a forged eagle 3.725
crank is a forged eagle 3.725
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Verdad Gallardo thanks. i tried that and didnt really see anything that looked like mine.. guess i should have assumed that was a good thing since it was only showing failed bearings and not any normal wear ones. I'm gonna search again and just look at em and try to learn compare
thanks for all the replies
thanks for all the replies
do me a favor and take out the top 2 rings and put them on top of each other. if the compression ring has a much larger gap than the 2nd ring you could have some excessive heat from detonation. that bearing looks like it has seen some to me. are you spraying it or running high compression on a mail order tune with pump gas?
i really have not ran it much. i got it and it has never ran right. i figured that out but then noticed and had a thick layer of ice cream on my valve cover. also was getting oil out of my dipstick and steady steam. i was just unhappy at the whole thing i decided to take it apart and inspect everything. i was guessing i was getting blowby my rings which was my main reason to take it apart. i am going put new rings in and the block is going in to get inspected probably next week.
the top end was stock. im think compression the guy told me was 11.5:1 i believe is what he told me. but that guy seems to not know much and this car was just thrown together. hell the bolt that holds the hub onto the crank was not even there. i mean i keep finding things i need to fix, another reason i wanted to take everything apart and just put it back together myself
the top end was stock. im think compression the guy told me was 11.5:1 i believe is what he told me. but that guy seems to not know much and this car was just thrown together. hell the bolt that holds the hub onto the crank was not even there. i mean i keep finding things i need to fix, another reason i wanted to take everything apart and just put it back together myself
did you do a leak down test? the top end was stock so what about the bottom end? those bearings look like they have seen some detonation. excessive heat will make a ring lose its tension and actually not only will the gap change but so will the shape of the ring as well. hence some blow by. it could be due to the heat or the machine shop put to much clearance in the block for those pistons. make sure the block is checked before they hone it. if it is too much clearance the new rings will not seat. then the piston will slap the walls and beat in the piston skirts. then you will need new pistons and bore more out of the block.
top end being stock as in all stock parts. stock rebuild. heads were rebuilt, new lifters, new everything but just stock. the bottom end, forged eagle crank, forged srp pistons forged 6" rods, and all new bearings, cleavite, installed. so the motor is freshed the guy traded me it and had just finished it months previous, said maybe a max of 6k on it. i say around 8k cause i drove it some, but rarely.. i probably didnt even put 1000 on it myself.
definitely having them check everything before they even touch it with anything. gonna make sure this wont happen again if the rings are the cause. ill pull rings off tomorrow.
definitely having them check everything before they even touch it with anything. gonna make sure this wont happen again if the rings are the cause. ill pull rings off tomorrow.
normally the top ring would be that way and not the second but yeah they have seen some extreme heat. that was some of your leak. have you checked your valves to make sure they are seating? pour some water in the intake runner and exhaust runner and see if it leaks past the seat. ill share 2 photos i took today to let you compare.
i did not check my heads. they were rebuilt but i guess that could be some of it maybe? i have new heads that are going back on. no way im keeping the cam and top end stock on the bottom end. ill get some new rings after the machine shop checks over the block. if it checks out ill go ahead and reassemble. unless they want to do it for a decent price, if not i will be doing it.
