Rebuild Kit
If you wanna make 400 rwhp you'll need a set of good flowing heads and an intake and cam to match them. At that level I'd go with forged pistons and arp rod bolts at the very least. As for the quality of the summit or jegs kits I couldn't really tell you
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Id be getting a new comp cam kit with rockers and springs and whatnot, forged flat tops with valve reliefs, arp rod bolts on stock rods and crank (ground crank 0.010) and have a local shop port the heads, 2.02/1.56 valves ect.
Look 400+rwhp IS doable on stock displacement, but it is not as easy as people seem to think.
A few cars do it and now everyone thinks they can call Comp get some TERRIBLE advise from them, let anyone who can push the lever on a die grinder attack the heads and they think they will get there.
2.02 valves done right wont fit the stock seats, meaning wasting money on new seats.
People like to pretend a good result is expensive, well many of us who have figured out how to get a good result learned the hard way that a mediocre result often costs MORE. Doing things right and doing them once is cheapest.
Comp's tech line is BAD for the LT1, Comp has some great products and great engineers BUT the goober answering the phone is more likely to misslead you than help you. Comp's rpm ranges being WAY WAY off for the LT1 is well documented. They will sell you a cam they claim is good to 6200rpms but in an LT1 it wont yet peak at 7000rpms and because of that the spec'd springs will allow float. Not saying these are bad products, just that Comp's tech line will have you missapplying them. Put that same cam in a dual plane intake gen 1 and the springs and rpm range will be inline.
Not all local shops will be good with the high efficiency small ports of the LT1 heads, you might stumble on a winner or you might ruin a pair of castings.
No I would not spend $2000 with LE.
Yes I have spent over $2000 with AI as have many former LE customers once they see the truth.
As said above you can spend good money on heads and cam or try to get away cheaper with nitrous, for a modest 400rwhp goal I would not rebuild the shortblock for either option. The bottomend contributes relatively little to power compared to the topend.
A few cars do it and now everyone thinks they can call Comp get some TERRIBLE advise from them, let anyone who can push the lever on a die grinder attack the heads and they think they will get there.
2.02 valves done right wont fit the stock seats, meaning wasting money on new seats.
People like to pretend a good result is expensive, well many of us who have figured out how to get a good result learned the hard way that a mediocre result often costs MORE. Doing things right and doing them once is cheapest.
Comp's tech line is BAD for the LT1, Comp has some great products and great engineers BUT the goober answering the phone is more likely to misslead you than help you. Comp's rpm ranges being WAY WAY off for the LT1 is well documented. They will sell you a cam they claim is good to 6200rpms but in an LT1 it wont yet peak at 7000rpms and because of that the spec'd springs will allow float. Not saying these are bad products, just that Comp's tech line will have you missapplying them. Put that same cam in a dual plane intake gen 1 and the springs and rpm range will be inline.
Not all local shops will be good with the high efficiency small ports of the LT1 heads, you might stumble on a winner or you might ruin a pair of castings.
No I would not spend $2000 with LE.
Yes I have spent over $2000 with AI as have many former LE customers once they see the truth.
As said above you can spend good money on heads and cam or try to get away cheaper with nitrous, for a modest 400rwhp goal I would not rebuild the shortblock for either option. The bottomend contributes relatively little to power compared to the topend.
Honestly if the shop has genuinely good results with the gen 1 Vortec heads they can probably handle LT1 stuff as well. Those are based on the LT1 iron heads so they are a small volume high efficiency port.
I would avoid a shop that likes 202 fuelie or camel hump heads like the plague though.
There are a lot of good porting shops all over the country, and a lot of bad ones too and you can't always rely on word of mouth to separate them. LOTS of folks give good reviews to a bad product just because they don't know any better yet.
I would avoid a shop that likes 202 fuelie or camel hump heads like the plague though.
There are a lot of good porting shops all over the country, and a lot of bad ones too and you can't always rely on word of mouth to separate them. LOTS of folks give good reviews to a bad product just because they don't know any better yet.
ok back to subject... this look like all i need??.. besides rods.. which i already priced..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...-000/?rtype=10
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...-000/?rtype=10



