Turbo'd 383 build thread
It's definitely not oil from the valve covers. Every single seal and gasket is new on this motor.
It makes sense though cause the leak is below the head stud wherever the leak is present. Head studs are under the valve cover where oil is laying so I guess oil is going down the stud and leaking past the head gasket. That's my guess for it anyways.
I'm about to prime the motor with the starter. I'll clean everything off and see if it comes back.
I don't know if this is an intelligent suggestion or "screw it" attitude, but it's pretty much my only option at this point.
It makes sense though cause the leak is below the head stud wherever the leak is present. Head studs are under the valve cover where oil is laying so I guess oil is going down the stud and leaking past the head gasket. That's my guess for it anyways.
I'm about to prime the motor with the starter. I'll clean everything off and see if it comes back.
I don't know if this is an intelligent suggestion or "screw it" attitude, but it's pretty much my only option at this point.
Assuming you used proper thread sealent (head studs can be very difficult to seal properly) then I would go the route of firing it up.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Yeh I put Teflon sealant on the threads. But that only stops coolant since headstuds thread into the coolant passages. There would be oil above the threads if I'm not mistaken.
I can't get the motor to crank over more than 2 seconds without killing the battery. I have jumper cables directly to the starter as well as the vehicle battery cables. And a battery charger on it. I think I bought a puny battery. It's a 550CCA. What is the CCA's for the factory battery? Mine went dead after sitting over the years so I picked up this new battery just recently.
I can't get the motor to crank over more than 2 seconds without killing the battery. I have jumper cables directly to the starter as well as the vehicle battery cables. And a battery charger on it. I think I bought a puny battery. It's a 550CCA. What is the CCA's for the factory battery? Mine went dead after sitting over the years so I picked up this new battery just recently.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
My connections should be good. Like I said, I hooked up jumper cables straight from the battery to the starter. The starter could be getting weak. Didn't have any problems last time the car ran stock but it has been a while. If I get a new starter, I need a small one. Do they sell smaller one's than stock size? I had the grind mine down to fit the exhaust. It just needs to be shorter in length like 1/2".
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
I got it cranking good. The stud on the starter for the positive wire was loose. Cleaned up the connections and added another battery in series. I'm building 40psi cranking. I still haven't got oil out of the pushrods yet. It supposedly takes a long time.
I hate copper gaskets, I had a set on a 420" Procharged sbc some years ago and when the engine builder dynoed the engine oil and coolant were leaking even after they retourqued the head studs. they ended up pulling the heads and replacing the gaskets with Felpro lock wires and the engine never leaked again. Very nice build by the way.
mitchell, looks great! One thing... the end of the DP (the short piece that bolts on at the end, should be rotated 180 degrees, so it aims parallel to the ground, not down. the way it is now, you will loose a ton of ground clearance most likely.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
The turbo is closer to the radiator than I originally thought. My low profile 11" spal fan will be here tomorrow so hopefully it will fit. Other than that, it's all done!
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Ok, a lot of ups and downs today.
First start up wasn't going well. It would fire a few times then stop, miss and backfire. Found out stupid me had #4 and #2 plug wires switched. How that slipped passed me I don't know.
Now it runs nice and healthy for 2 seconds then shuts off. At first I thought it was VATS for some reason. Checked my Tuner Cats and found VATS is disabled. I think it is fuel related. I loose fuel pressure after the pump turns off immediately and VERY quick. It drops down to zero fuel pressure within 2 seconds. I'm guessing it runs off of the fuel in the rail then dies once the pump doesn't keep up. Oddly when the car is actually running, fuel pressure doesn't drop. But goes right to zero when the pump shuts off.
I noticed the fuel pressure dropping like this once I put my gauges in and saw the readings. I wasn't sure if it was a feature with Aeromotive fuel pressure regulators to bleed off quickly. All I have changed from the last time my car ran is this regulator. The pump and lines are the same as before. No external leaks anywhere. No fuel smell.
First start up wasn't going well. It would fire a few times then stop, miss and backfire. Found out stupid me had #4 and #2 plug wires switched. How that slipped passed me I don't know.
Now it runs nice and healthy for 2 seconds then shuts off. At first I thought it was VATS for some reason. Checked my Tuner Cats and found VATS is disabled. I think it is fuel related. I loose fuel pressure after the pump turns off immediately and VERY quick. It drops down to zero fuel pressure within 2 seconds. I'm guessing it runs off of the fuel in the rail then dies once the pump doesn't keep up. Oddly when the car is actually running, fuel pressure doesn't drop. But goes right to zero when the pump shuts off.
I noticed the fuel pressure dropping like this once I put my gauges in and saw the readings. I wasn't sure if it was a feature with Aeromotive fuel pressure regulators to bleed off quickly. All I have changed from the last time my car ran is this regulator. The pump and lines are the same as before. No external leaks anywhere. No fuel smell.