what clutch?
what clutch? I cant decide what clutch to run, its just a bolt on car, but i will be doing a cc306 and 3.73's, with some suspension stuff in the near future so i want a clutch that will hold it all.
I also looked up a clutch on autozone for 1993 zr1 corvette, it has no springs. will that work with an fbody t56? does anybody know?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=12-0
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=12-0
well they look really nice but the cheapest one is 430$. I work at autozone so i can get a stock valeo replacement for 98 bucks. I just don't know if it'll hold the 350rwhp i'm estimating i'll make. specially if i get the suspension parts i wan't.
I guess my questions should have been this:
will the stock clutch hold 350 to the wheels
why does the lt4 clutch not have springs? Wouldent a rigid clutch beat the hell out of you for a daily driver?
I guess my questions should have been this:
will the stock clutch hold 350 to the wheels
why does the lt4 clutch not have springs? Wouldent a rigid clutch beat the hell out of you for a daily driver?
Trending Topics
I've heard of just about every clutch option for a 4th gen and never heard of anyone using one from a early 90's ZR1. I know the LT5 engine shares next to nothing in common with an LT1, not sure what the clutch setup was in that car but I'm going to guess it wont work. If it did I'm sure I would have heard someone using it by now. You can use an LT4 clutch disc, it is a solid disc/no springs. I used one years ago but had a lot of chatter with it, it was so annoying I switched it out though. The LT4 corvette used a different flywheel set up then 4th gens do. I'm now using the Spec 4, it's a 6 puck solid hub design with the LT4 PP. I get almost no chatter from it but it's a bit on/off when engaging, it's fine for me as a weekend street/strip car but it would be a bit much for a dd. Grabs really well off the line, I've made 50 or so hard passes with it making 355 rwhp and it's holding up great.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 680
Likes: 8
From: Clearwater
my RamHD was an awesome clutch for only $400 but it wore down really fast.
I've been extremely happy with my Ram Powergrip clutch and Ram Aluminum flywheel.
No chatter, predictable off the line, holds the 1-2 quick shift (where the stocker would always slip) and all came at a very reasonable clutch.
For what it's worth, the Mustang crowd turned me on the Ram products. I heard too many horror stories about Spec, and couldn't justify a Street Twin. I also wanted a streetable clutch. Some are grab-no grab and not easy to ease into on the street. Unless this is a drag car, I would avoid these since they make it tough to feather off the line.
No chatter, predictable off the line, holds the 1-2 quick shift (where the stocker would always slip) and all came at a very reasonable clutch.
For what it's worth, the Mustang crowd turned me on the Ram products. I heard too many horror stories about Spec, and couldn't justify a Street Twin. I also wanted a streetable clutch. Some are grab-no grab and not easy to ease into on the street. Unless this is a drag car, I would avoid these since they make it tough to feather off the line.
thanks for the input guys! I think I'm just gunna try getting my flywheel machined, and buy a new stocker, i would get the lt4 pressure plate, but it looks like it would be pretty expensive compared to the 98 bucks i'll be spending on parts now. I'll just break it in real nice. I had to relace my friction disc about 4 months ago because the 17 year old stocker that never slipped with 100k miles gave up...at 70....with my foot on the floor lol, it actually split the frame of the disc, then spread from centrifical force, and held tight against the moounting pounts of the pressure plate so i couldent even disengage the cluth lol. The new valeo looked totally different and much sronger and is holding up great with gives me alot of confidence, the only reason i'm even doing a new clutch is because the exploding friction disc whacked the pressure plate and took a small chunk out of it, now iv got a pretty good vibration at like 1900rpm and i'm scared for my rear main bearing having a vibration that close. oh and just so ya know, autozone sells duralast clutches, but the fbody ones are all valeo.
I run a stock clutch with my 306. I don't know about a stock motor but my 355 has smoked the clutch pretty bad before. It held good in first but when I shifted to second it didn't hold too well. That was when the setup was new and I hadn't drove the car in a while. I only have about 3,000 miles on this setup so we will see how it goes.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 680
Likes: 8
From: Clearwater
thanks for the input guys! I think I'm just gunna try getting my flywheel machined, and buy a new stocker, i would get the lt4 pressure plate, but it looks like it would be pretty expensive compared to the 98 bucks i'll be spending on parts now. I'll just break it in real nice. I had to relace my friction disc about 4 months ago because the 17 year old stocker that never slipped with 100k miles gave up...at 70....with my foot on the floor lol, it actually split the frame of the disc, then spread from centrifical force, and held tight against the moounting pounts of the pressure plate so i couldent even disengage the cluth lol. The new valeo looked totally different and much sronger and is holding up great with gives me alot of confidence, the only reason i'm even doing a new clutch is because the exploding friction disc whacked the pressure plate and took a small chunk out of it, now iv got a pretty good vibration at like 1900rpm and i'm scared for my rear main bearing having a vibration that close. oh and just so ya know, autozone sells duralast clutches, but the fbody ones are all valeo.
the LT4 pressure plate comes with a lot of the better clutch kits. its worth the extra money for me to have something a litte beefier in an area i hate having to take out like a transmission.
I had my stock flywheel resurfaced when I did my clutch and it's working fine. I also used a shim behind it the same thickness as they took off it. Not sure what your reasoning is for not resurfacing it. I've heard of lots of other people doing this without issues. If you can get a brand new one for only 40 I would probably just do that though, most people can't get a new one so cheap.
Last edited by GREGG 97Z; Apr 11, 2010 at 06:12 PM.
yeah that is odd about not wanting to resurface the flywheel. I would'nt be worried about it at all, but getting it machined would'nt make sence for how cheap i can get a new one for.
Getting it machine CAN and often does cause issues, not to mention reducing clamping force... if you're going to do it, shimming it as stated above is the only way I would.
I work for them too, and have to ask.....how can you get the clutch set that cheap even with our discount? If you can't reply to that on here, just send me a PM. My 97 I bought a couple weeks back has a duralast clutch in it that is a few months old, but it's holding up fine. Has been driven fairly hard by myself, and extremely hard by the previous owner. Rear gears are 4.10's. Also has some suspension mods, 285/40-17 rears.
