what clutch?
I work for them too, and have to ask.....how can you get the clutch set that cheap even with our discount? If you can't reply to that on here, just send me a PM. My 97 I bought a couple weeks back has a duralast clutch in it that is a few months old, but it's holding up fine. Has been driven fairly hard by myself, and extremely hard by the previous owner. Rear gears are 4.10's. Also has some suspension mods, 285/40-17 rears.
Because it moves the flywheel surface further away from the pressure plate, so the pressure plate is trying to hold with the fingers further in where they have less leverage. I know that the .0020" or so they take off the flywheel doesn't seem to be enough to change, but that and the finish are all that changes, an if the clutch is broken it right, the surface should conform.
That's before the discount also. I guess we are just in a different market or something?? Anyway, I just bought my 97 SS the end of last month and it already had a Duralast installed. It's holding up great so far even with the BMR LCA's and relo brackets, 4.10's, P285/40 - 17's and alot of bolt-ons. I'm really surprised how well the car hooks up and goes on the street. It's hard to just burn the tires on take off unless you do a clutch dump over 2500 RPM. 
Factory lt4 pp and mcleod disk here.
Not true. The flywheel AND pressure plate (basically the entire clutch assembly) would be moved away from the trans whatever amount is macined off. You forget that the PP is directly bolted to the FW. What it will change is clutch engagemant height. Beinng that an lt1 uses a "puller" style clutch, it may work as an advantage and the clutch will release earlier.
Now if it is machined too much and the fork is actually preloaded and pulling on the throwout bearing, it will reduce clamping force just like driving with your foot resting on the clutch pedal.
A pusher clutch like a mustang or an ls1 can suffer from disengagement issues if too much is machined off. When the clutch is pushed in all the way, it my not be able to push the fingers in far enough to fully release the clutch.
Because it moves the flywheel surface further away from the pressure plate, so the pressure plate is trying to hold with the fingers further in where they have less leverage. I know that the .0020" or so they take off the flywheel doesn't seem to be enough to change, but that and the finish are all that changes, an if the clutch is broken it right, the surface should conform.
Not true. The flywheel AND pressure plate (basically the entire clutch assembly) would be moved away from the trans whatever amount is macined off. You forget that the PP is directly bolted to the FW. What it will change is clutch engagemant height. Beinng that an lt1 uses a "puller" style clutch, it may work as an advantage and the clutch will release earlier.
Now if it is machined too much and the fork is actually preloaded and pulling on the throwout bearing, it will reduce clamping force just like driving with your foot resting on the clutch pedal.
A pusher clutch like a mustang or an ls1 can suffer from disengagement issues if too much is machined off. When the clutch is pushed in all the way, it my not be able to push the fingers in far enough to fully release the clutch.
yeah sorry my bad, iv done half a dozen clutches between having mine out last for the millionth time lol. I forgot these are a flush mount and the whole flywheel can be machined.
Can yuo aactually take off enough to put bind on the fork? that seems almost impossable.
Can yuo aactually take off enough to put bind on the fork? that seems almost impossable.
