'94 Firebird Wiring Question
'94 Firebird Wiring Question I am getting a 94 Firebird that was originally a v6 car. It has no engine, but my question is, Is the wiring the same if I would want to put an LT1 engine in it?
What else would i have to switch, just the computer or what?
Any help would be great, thank you.
What else would i have to switch, just the computer or what?
Any help would be great, thank you.
Wiring harness is just one of many questions. You could do a 93 or 95 engine with same year harness and PCM, but a 94 might be less complicated (trying to do speed density on a 93 or hassle with OBDI-OBDII transition from the 95. Try to get the harness and PCM with the engine!
Get some documentation so you can see where things are between a V6 and V8 from 94. Look for things like location of fuel lines, cannister, etc. Some will be the same, a few things will be different. Emissions features you want to keep vs. delete will be a factor. Exhaust will have to go completely, obviously. Three are a few V6-V8 swap threads so have a look around...
Get some documentation so you can see where things are between a V6 and V8 from 94. Look for things like location of fuel lines, cannister, etc. Some will be the same, a few things will be different. Emissions features you want to keep vs. delete will be a factor. Exhaust will have to go completely, obviously. Three are a few V6-V8 swap threads so have a look around...
so according to this chart at the bottom
http://www.tacreationsusa.com/3_4_3_8_v6_to_lt1.htm
i will not have to change my wiring? but i will need to change the gauge cluster, and it should be fine?
http://www.tacreationsusa.com/3_4_3_8_v6_to_lt1.htm
i will not have to change my wiring? but i will need to change the gauge cluster, and it should be fine?
It's referring to the dash harness, hookups for airbag sensors, etc. stuff apart from the engine. You wouldn't expect 6 injector plugs to turn into 8, would you? 
The engine harness will come out when you remove the pass. side kick panel (after you pull the old PCM, you'll see where the 2 big chunks of it go in through the firewall).
You might want to change the speedo head to a 150MPH while you're at it. All other interior accessories, etc- their wiring will not need to change.
The engine harness will come out when you remove the pass. side kick panel (after you pull the old PCM, you'll see where the 2 big chunks of it go in through the firewall).
You might want to change the speedo head to a 150MPH while you're at it. All other interior accessories, etc- their wiring will not need to change.
According to the site you were getting info from, you might want to see about K-member and springs up front as the first thing in preparation for the swap. You'll also need the trans, and you'll want a different rear gear or rear end assembly & driveshaft (suggest no lower than a 3.42:1 stock gears assembly to start with).
Get your driveline ready to accept the engine and trans and you'll be shittin' in high cotton...
Get your driveline ready to accept the engine and trans and you'll be shittin' in high cotton...
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some suspension work to make it hook and put the power to the ground is always good imo and if the engine is out of the car now would be the perfect time to add some longtube headers to wake the car up a little bit
Headers, make sure you bypass the throttle body when you do the cooling system plumbing (very quick and simple), good time to change the Opti, maybe do an electric water pump, of course change the plugs, etc. obvious stuff. Look at the LT1 newbie threads, make sure any free & cheap bolt-on mods that would be easier with the motor out you do...
motor mounts- find some blown out cores on Ebay, etc. I think Trans Am creations (your site above) is an Ebay seller for old mounts with trashed inserts. I bought a pair to do my mounts with Prothane inserts so I could do a quick swap instead of pulling them and then doing the inserts with the mounts off the car to save lift time. Like $25.00 for the clamshells. If I had done it yet, I'd let you have my old ones (still good, but def. would do urethane MMs.
motor mounts- find some blown out cores on Ebay, etc. I think Trans Am creations (your site above) is an Ebay seller for old mounts with trashed inserts. I bought a pair to do my mounts with Prothane inserts so I could do a quick swap instead of pulling them and then doing the inserts with the mounts off the car to save lift time. Like $25.00 for the clamshells. If I had done it yet, I'd let you have my old ones (still good, but def. would do urethane MMs.
If you have the time and money tear the engine down and do a small rebuild. Either do it your self or spend a little bit of money and change the pistons, reuse the rods and crank, just have them checked and resized for bearings. Also have the block checked and machined. Have the heads worked and put a cam in it. You don't have to go wild but a good set of reworked heads with a small cam will make that thing run really well for a long time.
At least have the bearings replaced while it is out. LT1's from F-bodies and B-bodies were not usually run easy.
At least have the bearings replaced while it is out. LT1's from F-bodies and B-bodies were not usually run easy.
^^ Sage advice. Mine was only at 68k and should have been good, but I went through it and found a couple deep scars on the crank bearings, cam bearings weren't great either. It wasn't expensive at all to have the block dipped, put new crank & cam bearings in it. Also put ARP rod bolts in while it was apart. I skipped pistons, but it's a good idea. Make sure if you do change anything in the rotating assemble that your machine shop rebalances it to accomodate the weight change(s).
Yea, it takes more time and a little bit more money but if someone got any type of dirt or junk in the engine it can get caught in the bearings and you may end up spinning a bearing or wipping it out and loosing other parts along the way. Bearings and good cleaning at the least for any engine you buy is a great investment to make sure it will run strong for a long time. The over all cost of doing this usually is well worth it.
