LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Cam swap, first start up procedure

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Old 04-18-2010, 09:41 PM
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Default Cam swap, first start up procedure

I'm doing a CC503 cam swap and installing a Yank SS3600.

I'm also doing oil pan gasket, rear main seal, head gaskets, and just about every other gasket/seal on the engine while I've got the engine out of the car to put the stall converter in.

My Question(s) is:

1. Since I have this engine stripped down to a shortblock, is there any kind of oil system primeing I have to do? I know when you build an engine you have to prime the pump and such, but I'm assuming I dont have to because I never took the pump off the engine. I just wanted to check with someone else to make sure I wasn't crazy. Do I need to prime anything? (other than letting the new LS7 lifters soak offcoarse)

2. I've done enough research to find out that hydraulic roller cams dont have a break in period, so I just need to change the oil after 100 miles or so to degunk things. But, do I need to run a certain type of oil to start out with? (reg or synthetic?) I run Mobile 1 full synthetic normally.

Thanks for reading
Ben
Old 04-18-2010, 10:15 PM
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1) no

2) no. Run what you're gonna run.
Old 04-20-2010, 10:34 AM
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Not that I am doubting gregrob^, but does anybody else have an opinion or maybe agree with the above theory? Simply for reassurance purposes...


Thanks
Old 04-20-2010, 10:37 AM
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I agree, run whatever you're gonna run and change it after 50 or so miles.
Old 04-20-2010, 11:00 AM
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x2. I'd change it after 50 miles. Have a ball.
Old 04-20-2010, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
1) no

2) no. Run what you're gonna run.
Agreed. Also, go ahead and put some oil on the cam lobes when installing it.
Old 04-20-2010, 02:10 PM
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^I put assembly lube on the cam lobes before I put it in.

Thanks fella's.
Old 04-20-2010, 06:49 PM
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Personally, I'd just use some cheap petroleum 10w-30 or Diesel 15w-40 for the first 50-100 miles and then drain and fill with the oil you plan on using. I like to think of it as a flush for any particle contamination you have gotten in your motor during the the work. I see no use in wasting expensive synthetic oil if you are basically flushing your motor.
Old 04-20-2010, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by thehammer69
Personally, I'd just use some cheap petroleum 10w-30 or Diesel 15w-40 for the first 50-100 miles and then drain and fill with the oil you plan on using. I like to think of it as a flush for any particle contamination you have gotten in your motor during the the work. I see no use in wasting expensive synthetic oil if you are basically flushing your motor.
I agree. Come to think of it I just tossed in some cheap Pennzoil dino oil I had laying around when I did my last cam swap. I usually run sythentic Amsoil but I wasn't going to drop $50 on oil to drain it out only 50 miles later.
Old 04-20-2010, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthFormula
I agree. Come to think of it I just tossed in some cheap Pennzoil dino oil I had laying around when I did my last cam swap. I usually run sythentic Amsoil but I wasn't going to drop $50 on oil to drain it out only 50 miles later.


That's what I do. I run to walmart or if checker has a super cheap deal on oil. I don't see a point in wasting 50 bucks for oil to drain it so soon as well.
Old 04-20-2010, 08:42 PM
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That's what I did. I also poured about 3qts thru the top of the engine down the LIFTER bores and right back out the pan before starting. A little extra insurance.



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