Cam swap, first start up procedure
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 94
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Cam swap, first start up procedure I'm doing a CC503 cam swap and installing a Yank SS3600.
I'm also doing oil pan gasket, rear main seal, head gaskets, and just about every other gasket/seal on the engine while I've got the engine out of the car to put the stall converter in.
My Question(s) is:
1. Since I have this engine stripped down to a shortblock, is there any kind of oil system primeing I have to do? I know when you build an engine you have to prime the pump and such, but I'm assuming I dont have to because I never took the pump off the engine. I just wanted to check with someone else to make sure I wasn't crazy. Do I need to prime anything? (other than letting the new LS7 lifters soak offcoarse)
2. I've done enough research to find out that hydraulic roller cams dont have a break in period, so I just need to change the oil after 100 miles or so to degunk things. But, do I need to run a certain type of oil to start out with? (reg or synthetic?) I run Mobile 1 full synthetic normally.
Thanks for reading
Ben
I'm also doing oil pan gasket, rear main seal, head gaskets, and just about every other gasket/seal on the engine while I've got the engine out of the car to put the stall converter in.
My Question(s) is:
1. Since I have this engine stripped down to a shortblock, is there any kind of oil system primeing I have to do? I know when you build an engine you have to prime the pump and such, but I'm assuming I dont have to because I never took the pump off the engine. I just wanted to check with someone else to make sure I wasn't crazy. Do I need to prime anything? (other than letting the new LS7 lifters soak offcoarse)
2. I've done enough research to find out that hydraulic roller cams dont have a break in period, so I just need to change the oil after 100 miles or so to degunk things. But, do I need to run a certain type of oil to start out with? (reg or synthetic?) I run Mobile 1 full synthetic normally.
Thanks for reading
Ben
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Personally, I'd just use some cheap petroleum 10w-30 or Diesel 15w-40 for the first 50-100 miles and then drain and fill with the oil you plan on using. I like to think of it as a flush for any particle contamination you have gotten in your motor during the the work. I see no use in wasting expensive synthetic oil if you are basically flushing your motor.
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Verdad Gallardo Personally, I'd just use some cheap petroleum 10w-30 or Diesel 15w-40 for the first 50-100 miles and then drain and fill with the oil you plan on using. I like to think of it as a flush for any particle contamination you have gotten in your motor during the the work. I see no use in wasting expensive synthetic oil if you are basically flushing your motor.
That's what I do. I run to walmart or if checker has a super cheap deal on oil. I don't see a point in wasting 50 bucks for oil to drain it so soon as well.
