fex77k

iTrader: (2)

Truer words have never been spoken.

Dadic 78

thanks for the input everyone. By the sounds of things (and keeping a budget closer to 5K rather than 10K) If I aim for AI 200 cc heads, and a fair-priced 383 Kit, I should be in good shape to make roughly 450 rwhp, and not get too deep financially (gotta keep the wife happy here, too!)

If this build ends up closer to 7-8K, I'm fine with that, again, I'm just looking for suggestions on how to build this kind of power, in a reliable LT1.

Would porting the existing heads be a good option? I know a lot of people do it, I've read many threads on it, but not sure what the best choice is? New, or ported?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Take a look at my build thread. It's exactly what you're looking for. My 383 put down 455whp.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...d-why-not.html

Dadic 78

Yeah, you've got a very similar setup to what I'm looking for... At the end of the day, what did all the engine mods end up costing you? And did you buy your Crank/rods/pistons as a kit, or seperately?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Well the engine alone (with all of the bolt-ons) cost me around $9k (and that's a conservative estimate). Add on a $2000 transmission and a $2500 rearend to support it and..well...you get the picture.

I pieced together the rotating assembly myself and with the help of my builder.

1slo_camaro

iTrader: (2)

hahahah lemme throw in my .02 cents. prior to completely getting rid of all my 4th gen parts and **** and started on my 3rd gen i had the same exact post. hell if you look back over the last year youll see my thread...... a cheap build for 500 wheel it ran me about 12k. and thats being close buddies with the machine shop and having hookups on parts so if your looking for 5k to spend expect about 375-400 wheel. my 3500 dollar 383 build was prolly 350ish pull a 13.1 at 109.... so to be perfectly honest expect to spend alot or sacrifice your goals. one thing im sure everyone has been told more then once


Good Quality, Low Price, Big Power. you can pick 2 of them your not gonna get all 3 lol


GOod luck with the build for sure though.

96blackz28

iTrader: (3)

To the OP, you are most likely gonna spend way way... over 5k jsut for the engine build. Unless you find a good deal an something!! I was able to come across and all forged 388 LT1 shortblock with fresh rings and bearings, many extras included for $2300. Now as everyone ha said, and I would think you are aware of this, you need to spend lots of cheese on all the supporting mods.. lots o cheese

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

doable with a HR, just takes a nice set of heads. If I was still a 6 speed i would have made 500 rwhp with a bigger cam, not very streetable probably and that's running on E85 where you see 3-4% more power.

Dadic 78

So tell me... what is the opinion of this group with a purchase like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

This guy's selling basically what I'm looking for, but I really don't know how it's so cheap... Are the parts cheap? Half-*** workmanship? I don't know. What's your opinion on buying a stroker this way?

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

That engine is using a cast crank and the cheap rods, plus look at the cheap timing set they're using.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Cast crank, shitty heads, and off the shelf lazy cam.

460 is an exaggerated flywheel number, don't expect more then 360rwhp, and don't expect it to be reliable.

I sure as hell wouldn't spray 175 like stated.

Jcl_96TA

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't look like he had the block in a acid bath. That engine is probably going to be closer to 400 at the wheels, and i have heard a lot of bad reviews on Eagles crank shafts breaking. At the very least i would ask him to personally balance the rotating assembly (Eagle claims that they are Pre-Balanced out of the box), but others have installed them and had horrible vibrations. If you do go that route let us know what the results are. That is a dirt cheep price for a long block 383, i would imagine he would have to be cutting corners somewhere. Maybe he is trying to get his name out there i really don't know. I would be cautious, more times than not u get what u pay for.

1slo_camaro

iTrader: (2)

Hey man be careful buying anythign from eagle. heres the outcome of my eagle crank. i ran the car hard dont get my wrong but never missed a shift or over revved it. my 383 shifted at 6800





sorry the pics are small but i hope you get the idea. right after the #1 piston bearing it snapped in half.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

I'd avoid Eagle.

Lunati or Callies all the way. Do it right the first time.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

I don't see where it says cast crank? eagle h-beams aren't shitty rods, not the best but far from being garbage.

I had heard cloyes makes good timing sets, I could be wrong.

the block definately looks like it could have used a hot tanking, also sucks he's running dished pistons especially with that cam

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Nothing wrong with Eagle, I got one in mine...forged of course.

There are probably more Eagle rotating assemblies running at the track than any other.

Dadic 78

where would the best place be to start shopping/pricing out stroker kits? Summit/Jegs? or are you guys sticking with local shops?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

One of the biggest and most often repeated mistakes I see is the "need" to build a motor rather than just modding the stock motor. If you try and do it "on a budget" what happens is you put together something not so good and lack the money to do the topend right. Topend is where power comes from. So putting the blinders on and wanting a bigger shortblock at the expense of having a good topend means you will see tailights of heads/cam cars.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Agreed.

The cast stuff is only rated to 500flywheel, and I have seen it break off the snout more then once...but the forged is good to over 1,000hp and has seen much more then that...it won't be broken by 99% of the cars on this site unless its due to installation error.

My shortblock was built for a solid roller setup of 600 flywheel PLUS a 250 shot of nitrous, and uses a forged eagle crank. I'll only be running an NA setup, but its nice to know that it will be bulletproof in my combo.

Sadly there are way too many slow 383s on the site . Money wasted that would have been better spent on a quality refresh and top end.

Dadic 78

So, tell me, if you were in my position, what would you do? I've got a solid LT1 bolt on motor right now, but I've got 200.000 K on it, and need to refresh it. I want some serious power, but don't want to sacrifice reliability, and will honestly, rarely, if ever see the 1/4 mile.

Is a hot top-end all I need?

Sorry for all the "all over the place" questions, guys, but I'm not an engine pro. I'm a painter, I love the cars, but know jack s**t about building power!