Is It Even POSSIBLE To Install Hooker Shorties???
04-25-2010, 10:57 AM
#21
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It's easy to spot a guy that works on LT1s (actually any f-body from the 80's till present) by the twisted up, mangled hands and lack of hair.. There really is no "trick", you just have to move around and try different wrenches/postions until you get them done.. Just keep telling yourself "this is possible".. Good Luck!
04-25-2010, 11:34 AM
#24
Prove it.
I read threads all the time where people claim that longtubes are soooo much better than shorties, but no one can ever prove it. But I have seen proof to the contrary.
I saw a site that showed dyno graphs of the same engine with shorties and with long tubes. The engine had a similar power band as the LT1's but it did not specify the engine or the brand(s) of headers. Out of a peak hp of around 400, the long tubes had less than a 10 hp advantage in the upper rpm range, and the shorties had the same advantage at a lower rpm. Nowhere in the range did one have a big advantage over the other.
I did see one guy claiming he had proof that his lt's had over a 20hp advantage over his shorties, and put up dynos. But he finally admitted that he also installed 1.6 rr's during the same time as the lt's.
My theory is that the shorties started falling out of favor with the fbody crowd after the LS1 came around. The LS1 has better factory exhaust than the LT1, so shorties don't do as much for it. Plus the LT1 makes it's best power in the upper rpm's, where the stock exhaust is more restrictive but lt's work best.
Either way, I have personally seen an LT1 gain 23 on the dyno with shorties and dual cats before a tune. I'll be happy with that.
I read threads all the time where people claim that longtubes are soooo much better than shorties, but no one can ever prove it. But I have seen proof to the contrary.
I saw a site that showed dyno graphs of the same engine with shorties and with long tubes. The engine had a similar power band as the LT1's but it did not specify the engine or the brand(s) of headers. Out of a peak hp of around 400, the long tubes had less than a 10 hp advantage in the upper rpm range, and the shorties had the same advantage at a lower rpm. Nowhere in the range did one have a big advantage over the other.
I did see one guy claiming he had proof that his lt's had over a 20hp advantage over his shorties, and put up dynos. But he finally admitted that he also installed 1.6 rr's during the same time as the lt's.
My theory is that the shorties started falling out of favor with the fbody crowd after the LS1 came around. The LS1 has better factory exhaust than the LT1, so shorties don't do as much for it. Plus the LT1 makes it's best power in the upper rpm's, where the stock exhaust is more restrictive but lt's work best.
Either way, I have personally seen an LT1 gain 23 on the dyno with shorties and dual cats before a tune. I'll be happy with that.
Drop xpipe, drop trans. Done :p
04-25-2010, 12:01 PM
#25
It's easy to spot a guy that works on LT1s (actually any f-body from the 80's till present) by the twisted up, mangled hands and lack of hair.. There really is no "trick", you just have to move around and try different wrenches/postions until you get them done.. Just keep telling yourself "this is possible".. Good Luck!
And my hair has not been ripped out or caught in anything.
04-25-2010, 03:48 PM
#26
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Pacesetter mid-lengths look a lot easier than those hookers, but they require a new y-pipe. I couldn't even get the stupid bolts in front of the rear tube in because it rubbed against the tube.
If you can get a wrench on those bolts, just snug them down to what you think 30ft-lbs feels like.
If you can get a wrench on those bolts, just snug them down to what you think 30ft-lbs feels like.
04-25-2010, 05:10 PM
#27
I feel your pain. I installed a set of the same hooker shorties on my 93. This was even with half of the things from under the hood missing and it still took me forever even to get them in the car. I had to remove the steering shaft, vice grip broken bolts, etc... I would never do it again.
04-25-2010, 08:31 PM
#28
first off they arent that horrible. i did work in the automotive feild for a while so i do have tools some of you dont. i have advice for u MOON WRENCHES. snap on sells these for about 300 a set 8-19mm. short and long i hated myself for 4 years paying for 20k in tools now i am the happiest person ever.
04-26-2010, 07:59 AM
#29
My knuckles, my forearms, and my neighbors who wouldn't let their kids play in the yard this weekend because of the crazy man throwing tools around his garage and making up new curse words, would all disagree with you.
Something very similar to that popped in my head yesterday and I tried finding some locally. AZ and Lowes did not have them, and Sears had closed by the time I got there. I think they may be the answer to the header bolt problem. If not, I will have to grind down a wrench as suggested before.
Something very similar to that popped in my head yesterday and I tried finding some locally. AZ and Lowes did not have them, and Sears had closed by the time I got there. I think they may be the answer to the header bolt problem. If not, I will have to grind down a wrench as suggested before.
Last edited by dubga; 04-26-2010 at 08:04 AM.
04-26-2010, 08:08 AM
#30
Anyone else run into clearance problems on the passenger side fenderwell. When I finally coaxed that one into place, it is jammed up against the fenderwell and one tube is about 1/8" from the plastic box that comes out from the firewall (is that part of the heater core?).
According to Hooker's instruction sheet, these headers are supposed to fit without modification. They say if you think you need to modify it, you may need new motor mounts. Anyone else run into this?
According to Hooker's instruction sheet, these headers are supposed to fit without modification. They say if you think you need to modify it, you may need new motor mounts. Anyone else run into this?
04-26-2010, 04:36 PM
#31
i've never done shorty's but for my LPP LT's i had to remove the steering knuckle,the starter, alternator, passenger side motor mount, and then bash in the pass. floor about 1/2 an inch in the front after jacking up the motor so it would fit AT ALL. It took me about 2 days, and as far as the bolts you can just throw the idea of torquing them down right out the window now, its not gonna happen. I had to make a wrench and use various size bolts to make mine work.
On another note, why bother installing headers if your gonna keep your stock cats and Y-pipe? The y-pipe is one of the biggest problems, replace it while your down their.
On another note, why bother installing headers if your gonna keep your stock cats and Y-pipe? The y-pipe is one of the biggest problems, replace it while your down their.
04-26-2010, 06:16 PM
#33
How was the fit and install on the Magnaflow Y and cats? Did it feel like an improvement over stock? I have a 97 and was thinking of getting them. Thanks.
04-26-2010, 06:18 PM
#34
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04-30-2010, 10:49 PM
#36
I am about ready to throw these headers in the lake and drive the car around with no exhaust.
I still can't figure out how to get one bolt on the drivers side installed. There is no room to get anything to it. I can get one finger on it but not two. The only tool I can even possibly hope to tighten it with is a small ignition wrench with a sideways head. If I just get it started I may be able to tighten it with that wrench. One of the tubes runs directly in front of it so no hope of getting anything straight in from the front. The bolts I have can be tightened with a regular wrench or an allen wrench. I have tried an allen wrench with a rounded end and can't get at it straight enough for that to catch and tighten it.
Anyone got any suggestions? Is there any chance that it won't leak without that one bolt? It is in front of the rear tube. Pics below, one from above, two from below.
I still can't figure out how to get one bolt on the drivers side installed. There is no room to get anything to it. I can get one finger on it but not two. The only tool I can even possibly hope to tighten it with is a small ignition wrench with a sideways head. If I just get it started I may be able to tighten it with that wrench. One of the tubes runs directly in front of it so no hope of getting anything straight in from the front. The bolts I have can be tightened with a regular wrench or an allen wrench. I have tried an allen wrench with a rounded end and can't get at it straight enough for that to catch and tighten it.
Anyone got any suggestions? Is there any chance that it won't leak without that one bolt? It is in front of the rear tube. Pics below, one from above, two from below.
05-01-2010, 07:36 AM
#38
I am about ready to throw these headers in the lake and drive the car around with no exhaust.
I still can't figure out how to get one bolt on the drivers side installed. There is no room to get anything to it. I can get one finger on it but not two. The only tool I can even possibly hope to tighten it with is a small ignition wrench with a sideways head. If I just get it started I may be able to tighten it with that wrench. One of the tubes runs directly in front of it so no hope of getting anything straight in from the front. The bolts I have can be tightened with a regular wrench or an allen wrench. I have tried an allen wrench with a rounded end and can't get at it straight enough for that to catch and tighten it.
Anyone got any suggestions? Is there any chance that it won't leak without that one bolt? It is in front of the rear tube. Pics below, one from above, two from below.
I still can't figure out how to get one bolt on the drivers side installed. There is no room to get anything to it. I can get one finger on it but not two. The only tool I can even possibly hope to tighten it with is a small ignition wrench with a sideways head. If I just get it started I may be able to tighten it with that wrench. One of the tubes runs directly in front of it so no hope of getting anything straight in from the front. The bolts I have can be tightened with a regular wrench or an allen wrench. I have tried an allen wrench with a rounded end and can't get at it straight enough for that to catch and tighten it.
Anyone got any suggestions? Is there any chance that it won't leak without that one bolt? It is in front of the rear tube. Pics below, one from above, two from below.
Also, it will leak with that bolt loose, don't try it.
05-01-2010, 10:04 AM
#39
Beaflag, I have seen those. There is not enough room to get those in there. I don't think my pic's show just how tight the area is.
Roxy, yours is the only idea that I have seen that might work. But when I found the ignition wrenches I decided to use them instead, as they have the sideways head on one end and will get into that tight space. My problem now is just getting the bolt started. You know how you have to hold the bolt steady while you make the first few turns before it catches? I can't do that with a wrench. Each time you take the wrench off to make another small turn, it falls back loose.
I think I may have just turned a corner though. I have two bolts that are giving me trouble. I just got the worst one started. I am about to try the other one. Stay tuned....
Roxy, yours is the only idea that I have seen that might work. But when I found the ignition wrenches I decided to use them instead, as they have the sideways head on one end and will get into that tight space. My problem now is just getting the bolt started. You know how you have to hold the bolt steady while you make the first few turns before it catches? I can't do that with a wrench. Each time you take the wrench off to make another small turn, it falls back loose.
I think I may have just turned a corner though. I have two bolts that are giving me trouble. I just got the worst one started. I am about to try the other one. Stay tuned....