'95 Caprice LT1 problems- HELP!
After all that the car still does basically the same thing. The idle in park feels very strong and very smooth sometimes, other times it feels rough. Putting it in gear it's rough no matter what. One thing did improve- before I did all this, in gear it would ping alot at idle, and turning the steering wheel would make it die out- all of that had now gone away. It still has a LOT of trouble accelerating. It also seems like the trans shifts strange- almost like it doesn't want to shift. It seems smooth enough once it finally does though, and it was completely rebuilt just under 2 years ago.
I did swap out the coil on my car with a friend's that was a known good coil, and that didn't make a difference. I also bought a new ICM and installed that, and that also didn't make any difference. I am going to return the ICM since that doesn't seem to be the problem. It does run exactly the same in open and closed loop, so I assume that means it's not a problem with the O2 sensors? The car has had an exhuast manifold leak for awhile, which I know can throw off my knock sensors, but that problem has been around awhile and it ran ok even with the leak. One strange thing I noticed- I do have an ALDL cable, and when I run it with Free Scan, it always says the desired idle is in the 3200rpm-range. Not sure if that's a sign of a bad PCM or if the Free Scan just has some sort of glitch. I'm out of ideas, and I'm pretty frustrated. I'd appreciate any advice you guys have!
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A 2 minute experiment that might be worth doing: remove the belt and see if there's a change. Usually you'd hear belt chatter/ squeak if you had an alternator, PS pump, or tensioner pulley starting to bind/ seize, but not always.
If spark is good and fuel is good and you don't have any vacuum leaks (you checked, right?), then air is likely your problem, especially given the desired idle FreeScan is reporting.
Next steps I'd suggest:
1) check the TPS with a voltmeter; should be 6.7V at the middle wire with the key on, engine OFF.
2) check the MAF for dirt on the elements, unplug it and run the engine. If no change, then MAF might be your problem. If the SES light isn't on, unplugging the MAF will likely make it come on pretty quick, just to let you know... if it's dirty, clean it with electronics cleaner. Don't use carb or brake parts cleaners on it.

Will your friend that loaned you the coil let you try his MAF? Unplugging yours should have made it run worse (or just bad if it was running fine).
Our F body cars default to speed density mode if the MAF is unplugged. In speed density mode, the PCM just uses the low resolution signal from the Opti + IAT + MAP sensor to calculate injector pulse width when the MAF is not working or is unplugged. Most of us don't ever tune our cars to run in this mode, so they run like crap when you unplug the MAF. I don't think B body cars are factory tuned any differently to use SD mode when the MAF goes out/ is unplugged. Therefore, I am assuming that your car should have the same associated behaviors with the MAF when unplugged. That being said, if there is no change when unplugging the MAF (bad driveability with no change), then you can conclude the MAF is most likely at fault...
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did you check out your i.c.t or cat like everyone told you on yb?






