Originally Posted by defaultexistence

IMO...its always a good idea to check the header flanges with a strait edge for warpage or imperfections, if needed lay headder flange flat on a large belt sander to help correct/straiten surface so it mates with gasket/head properly .
<~Mike~>

Originally Posted by Meen95z

My buddy just bought a set of the 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 stepped LPP longtubes in March and Id never buy a set. Id get the Edelbrock Stepped longtubes, kooks or hedmans. He ordered a set, look great, but the fitment sucked, they leaked, had to notch the kmember and had to use a jack to get the bolt holes to line up. I guess they had a Gen 1 set that sucked and a Gen 2 set that were good. Well my buddy paid for the Gen2 and they sent him the shitty Gen1's and he had all these problems and when he tried to contact LPP they refused to get back with him and finally emailed him saying he was **** out of luck. All he wanted was the right headers. Shitty customer service if you ask me. But thats just my 2 cents..

Originally Posted by wrd1972

Most people who install headers run into a fitment issue of some kind regardless of who made the headers. They could be crafted by angels and still requires some creativity and cussing to install them the properly.

The LPP's are an excellent product with some minor fitment issues that can easily resolved. These are the issues I had:

• #1 primary hitting the steering shaft

• #8 primary hitting the chassis

• Right side collector hitting the k-member

To resolve the #1 primary issue, I removed the the steering column bolts at the firewall, elongated the bolt holes toward the passenger side maybe 1/4", reinstalled the bolts and moved the the steering column over 1/4". I also took the telescoping steering shaft apart and lengthened it 3/4" or so which changed the shafts u-joint angles and I now have 3/8" clearance around the primary. Problem solved.

To resolve the #8 primary issue, I beat a dent into the sheet metal with a BFH to provide clearance. Once the header is installed, it is impossible to see the dent. Problem solved.

To resolve the collector issue, I did some grinding on the k-member. Problem solved.

I had zero issues with the LPP flanges. They are the thickest I have ever seen and the bolt holes line up perfect. Once the bolts are loosely installed, there is still enough room in the holes to pitch the header up and down to fine tune tight clearance areas. The gaskets they provide suck and I recently installed some Kooks gaskets and now things are tight again.

The construction of the pipes, the welds and the finish are excellent and I have no regrets with these headers even with the fitment issues considering what they cost. I would do it again if I had to. I had Arizona Speed and marine headers that had the same problems with the #1 and the right collector. I have read countless threads regarding Pacesetter problems. Headers are just one of those things that present challenges to most for various reasons.

Originally Posted by Chrismikeb

that is a damn good idea thank you sir

Originally Posted by jaycenk

I wouldn't agree with this. I had problems with mine leaking at the collector but I would still choose spending 500 for Lpp's over spending 1000+ on Kooks. No freakin way would I spend that much unless it was for the entire system, Headers to tail pipes. Your going to have issues, how you deal with them is up to the individual person. I have never meet an after market part that fit perfect.

Originally Posted by wrd1972

Most people who install headers run into a fitment issue of some kind regardless of who made the headers. They could be crafted by angels and still requires some creativity and cussing to install them the properly.

X2

The LPP's are an excellent product with some minor fitment issues that can easily resolved. These are the issues I had:

• #1 primary hitting the steering shaft

• #8 primary hitting the chassis

• Right side collector hitting the k-member

To resolve the #1 primary issue, I removed the the steering column bolts at the firewall, elongated the bolt holes toward the passenger side maybe 1/4", reinstalled the bolts and moved the the steering column over 1/4". I also took the telescoping steering shaft apart and lengthened it 3/4" or so which changed the shafts u-joint angles and I now have 3/8" clearance around the primary. Problem solved.

To resolve the #8 primary issue, I beat a dent into the sheet metal with a BFH to provide clearance. Once the header is installed, it is impossible to see the dent. Problem solved.

To resolve the collector issue, I did some grinding on the k-member. Problem solved.

I had zero issues with the LPP flanges. They are the thickest I have ever seen and the bolt holes line up perfect. Once the bolts are loosely installed, there is still enough room in the holes to pitch the header up and down to fine tune tight clearance areas. The gaskets they provide suck and I recently installed some Kooks gaskets and now things are tight again.

The construction of the pipes, the welds and the finish are excellent and I have no regrets with these headers even with the fitment issues considering what they cost. I would do it again if I had to. I had Arizona Speed and marine headers that had the same problems with the #1 and the right collector. I have read countless threads regarding Pacesetter problems. Headers are just one of those things that present challenges to most for various reasons.

Originally Posted by Formula WS6

I'm in the process of installing the second gen lpp's. I'm swapping them out with my hooker super comps for added ground clearance. the only issue I had was, like mentioned, the #8 primary was just a little too close for comfort to the frame. I heated it and made a small flat spot just to ensure it doesn't hit. I'll post up some pics tonight

Originally Posted by Slow94Formula

Great, I'll be looking forward to it.

Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1

I assume all those people with clearance issues with the k-member or frame do not have poly or solid motor mounts...

Originally Posted by merim123

i have a BMR kmember and I have poly mounts, so my situation is different than anyone else that has posted so far. I'll take some pics when I get under it here shortly. Looking at the design, from underneath, (and mine is the gen 1 set), there is definitely room to move the #8 and the #1 could have been tucked in a little tighter, so I won't say they can't be improved. However, I wouldn't come out and say they missed the mark and that I wouldn't buy these again. For the money, I don't see a better value. I used percy's dead soft gaskets and haven't had issues yet, but who knows, I've got about 1k miles so far on the engine back in the car. Getting the short starter bolt to fit was a major pain in the *** and very hard to get to, I haven't heard anyone say anything about that yet. I used an aftermarket starter from jegs so don't know if that was an issue.

I have a pair of used AS&Ms for 94-95 cars I was going to use but had fitment issues with the BMR kmember. When I compared these side by side, you can see the quality in terms of welds and fit that went into the LPPs. I also installed mine while engine was out of car so maybe I didn't experience any issues because of that (other than my #1 rubbing a bit).

My only other complaint is ground clearance. I can't pull into my favorite oil change place to get an oil change anymore, the primaries are too low and they hit on the pit guards in the oil change place. This may be due to my lowered SLP suspension though....

Originally Posted by Formula383

I used a heat gun to warm up the frame rail and hit it with a BFH. A torch would probably work even better. Motor was still in mine too.

Originally Posted by wrd1972

IMHO I dont see a heat gun heating 14-16 (maybe thicker) guage sheet metal to the point where it is of any value.

Mark the area that needs to be worked, remove the header and beat the **** out of it with a heavy ball peen and baby sledge. I put a 5/16" deep dent in the metal the size of a tennis ball easily with no heat.
Done.