Ball peen did the job, in and clear

 

you wern't serious about using a hair drier,....right? lol!
did you have issues with the header bolts?

 

glad to hear you got in! btw- i didn't hear anyone mention this with these headers yet, but it was a serious b*&$ to get the right side control arm bolt in because of that #8 primary. I have the BMR lower control arms too and it was extremely difficult to get that bolt in from the top.

 

Haha no was just joking. For the header bolts at first i did but realized it was sitting low in the back so once i lifted up on the rear all the bolts were able to be finger tightened down and then torqued

I would suspect its that way with any longtube but this is my first set so cant really comment.

 

Guys I'm having major issues with my LPP longtubes / off road y pipe. Today I bolted the headers on with the gaskets they came with (couldn't use the Mr. Gasket Copperseals I bought because the porting on the headers were so big the ports overlapped the raised seal area on the gastets, so those were useless.) Had to grind down both the passenger side and drivers side K member to BARELY clear that and used the air chisel with a blunt tip to smash in my frame rail to clear the #8 primary barely. Now comes the big issue, I bolt the headers up tight and go under to test fit the y pipe and my collectors are pointing up towards the floorboards so much that there is no way the y pipe can go on. I don't get it? Also looks like the bracket on the y-pipe isn't going to line up to where its supposed to go its almost hitting the trans crossmember (A4). I unbolted the crossmember and dropped the trans down a bit to be able to slip the y pipe on to get it out of the floor and when I jacked it back up the pipe hits the floor and the crossmember still has to go up another inch to be able to bolt back up to the floor. I haven't even tried the steering coupler yet. I'm gonna go out in a few and take some pictures to try and show what it looks like, hopefully I can get through to Carl tomorrow and see what he says. I just wanna drive my carrrrrr.

 

What all will I need to delete the oil cooler? Is it just something that I can take off and screw on another oil filter? Do I need anything like an oil filter adaptor, or any other parts?

 

yea the y-pipe mount plate or what ever the hell its supposed to be didnt line up to anything for me either i just torched it off, secondly i cut off all the slip on joints and welded in some turbo v-band flanges at the corrcect angles to fix leaks and fit perfect then.....

yes unscrew your oil cooler screw on oil filter connect cooler lines together with a double male brass hose barb. Done

 

Simple as that? Wow, I thought I would have to get an oil filter adaptor because of what I was reading in some of the other threads.

 

Will I need to buy block off plates for the EGR stuff to get deleted when I install these?

 

The oil filter adapter is underneath the oil cooler. Just need shorter length bolts to bolt the adapter to the block after removing the oil cooler.

Get the EGR delete plates off Ebay. Pretty cheap.

 

Hey, thanks! I didn't even think about that!

 

Yeah NOTHING lined up right the flange on the y the collectors were angled to high up. Headers went in fine just was impossible to get the y on.... I ended up sending mine back because I don't have the time to do all that custom fabbing to get a set of $600 headers to work. Tried to get a new set but no luck so I'm just gonna bite the bullet and probably buy some pacesetters this weekend so I can just have the damn car on the road next week. Oh well at least I can say I had stainless headers on my car... for a day.

 

I had to do some voodoo on my y-pipe too. Had to slice it, tweak it, weld it back to make it fit right. Oh well, not running it now anyway.