Question about an opti. Only option left.
05-18-2010, 09:58 PM
#1
Question about an opti. Only option left. I have a 95 TA thats had an intermittent problem of shutting off (4 times and counting) on a hotter day and not wanting to start until it cools. Car runs fine and strong when its in the 50's-60's. Once its 70+ she'll cut out and only crank for about 15-20mins. Now so far Ive changed Fuel pump, FPR, fuel filter, and the ICM, which guys guaranteed was the issue (yes I used a GM ICM). Only component left is the opti. The guys on ls1lt1.com havent been giving me much help, anyone else on here experience similar symptoms? I had a few guys tell me when optis are bad sometimes they heat up and stop sending/recieving power from the coil/ICM.
P.S The opti on the car is Accel (installed by last owner)
P.S The opti on the car is Accel (installed by last owner)
05-18-2010, 10:00 PM
#2
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I have a friend who's car did the same thing yours is doing and it turned out to be his opti. The funny thing is I believe his was an Accel from summit as well lol.
I think this was his thead. If you read thru his post history it might help you solve your problem.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...l#post11909300
I think this was his thead. If you read thru his post history it might help you solve your problem.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...l#post11909300
Last edited by sepno77; 05-18-2010 at 10:12 PM.
05-18-2010, 10:26 PM
#4
It throws a code on long trips when its on the warmer side, then they either dissapear while im still driving or when i shut the car off
And I agree its a similar issue, but theres a difference between your friends problem and mine. His car fires right back up, mine sits and doesnt want to start for 15-20 mins
And I agree its a similar issue, but theres a difference between your friends problem and mine. His car fires right back up, mine sits and doesnt want to start for 15-20 mins
Last edited by CRAGER; 07-13-2010 at 08:42 PM.
05-18-2010, 11:31 PM
#6
could certainly be opti. check the 4 pin harness to it at both connectors. I had a bad crimp on brown ground wire at connector going into opti causing same issues you have.
many replace the vent tube harness also on opti swaps.
many replace the vent tube harness also on opti swaps.
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05-19-2010, 02:10 PM
#8
If it's throwing codes, have them scanned to figure out which (numerical) they are. That's what they are there for!
I'll also throw the fact out there that it could also be the coil. Maybe try swapping out yours for a friends and see if that helps. Heat is the biggest enemy of electronic components.
I'll also throw the fact out there that it could also be the coil. Maybe try swapping out yours for a friends and see if that helps. Heat is the biggest enemy of electronic components.
05-19-2010, 02:12 PM
#9
I am not talking about the opti itself (and yess accel does not have a great rep)) the harnes that plugs into it on top and goes to the PS manifold position. That harness could be bad...often people pull on it to remove from opti and f it up or like me it was bad with a broken (brown) wire at crimp.
05-19-2010, 03:27 PM
#10
Yeah I agree about the codes but it wont throw the code unless im far into a trip, I cant take the scanner with me on the trip. Unless it tells me the codes even if the SES light if off
And about the coil, I might just pick up an msd or something. Theyre only 40 bucks from what I understand.
And about the coil, I might just pick up an msd or something. Theyre only 40 bucks from what I understand.
Last edited by CRAGER; 07-13-2010 at 08:43 PM.
05-19-2010, 03:46 PM
#13
Just spinning.
1st time it happened I was on a back road, just pulled out from a stop sign, hit 2nd and it just cut out, no bog, no studder, just cut, like the coil wire was just cut off. Sat,onlycranked for 20 mins, started fine, drove home.
2nd time it happened was after i changed the fuelpump. I was at a stop sign waiting for the ok to pull out. Died, no warning, just kept cranking. Pushed it off to the side, waited, only cranked for 20 mins, started, drove home.
3rd time I just got off at an exit on 422 and I was waiting at a redlight. Died, no warning, no studder. Coasted it down off the side of the road, waited for about 20 mins, called the tow truck (farther away from home, thankfully I have AAA) towed it home. Funny part was that it started before we loaded it on the truck haha. Got it home, replaced the FPR and fuel filter, and waited for the next time.
4th and most recent time, I was sitting in my friends driveway after I drove it letting it idle. Just died then, waited 15-20 mins, started fine.
All of these occasions were about 70degrees plus. I still drive it everyday because my school isnt far away. That and its been cold here. But i need a reliable car
Ok Im going to scan it tommorow. See whats up with it.
Anyone elses opinion?
1st time it happened I was on a back road, just pulled out from a stop sign, hit 2nd and it just cut out, no bog, no studder, just cut, like the coil wire was just cut off. Sat,onlycranked for 20 mins, started fine, drove home.
2nd time it happened was after i changed the fuelpump. I was at a stop sign waiting for the ok to pull out. Died, no warning, just kept cranking. Pushed it off to the side, waited, only cranked for 20 mins, started, drove home.
3rd time I just got off at an exit on 422 and I was waiting at a redlight. Died, no warning, no studder. Coasted it down off the side of the road, waited for about 20 mins, called the tow truck (farther away from home, thankfully I have AAA) towed it home. Funny part was that it started before we loaded it on the truck haha. Got it home, replaced the FPR and fuel filter, and waited for the next time.
4th and most recent time, I was sitting in my friends driveway after I drove it letting it idle. Just died then, waited 15-20 mins, started fine.
All of these occasions were about 70degrees plus. I still drive it everyday because my school isnt far away. That and its been cold here. But i need a reliable car
Ok Im going to scan it tommorow. See whats up with it.
Anyone elses opinion?
Last edited by CRAGER; 07-13-2010 at 08:43 PM.
05-19-2010, 09:03 PM
#14
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dood! i had this exact same problem,previous owner of my car had installed an MSD cap and rotor at some point, anyhow...not long after i bought it it started shittting on me just like that...., i replaced every thing from the DS ground to the ecm to the opti,turns out one rotor screw had fallen out and the other one nearly backed all the way out. i bought a new cardone select opti for $190..listed for $220 @ advanced a.p. with a limited life warr. checked opti wheel for straightness, reinstalled and locktited msd rotor screws and dressed/sealed gasket surfaces and o-rings and have 700mi on it on the trip clock. your next question might be " how can i hold the crank still so i can remove the 3 bolts?"
Easy,.. pick a bolt from the hardware store that will fit nicely thru one of the holes on the crank pulley get a nut for it and a 6-8 inch piece of chain and 2 washers,..... wrap chain on sway bar, line a link up with desired hole on pulley, slip bolt thru washer, chain, pulley, chain,washer nut...finger tighten and viola! crank will hold still!
<~Mike~>
P.s. IMO it was easy i,removed water pump, fans , idler pulley, ....mark plug boots with a marker/silver paint pen as to there location "its on the dist.cap".
Easy,.. pick a bolt from the hardware store that will fit nicely thru one of the holes on the crank pulley get a nut for it and a 6-8 inch piece of chain and 2 washers,..... wrap chain on sway bar, line a link up with desired hole on pulley, slip bolt thru washer, chain, pulley, chain,washer nut...finger tighten and viola! crank will hold still!<~Mike~>
P.s. IMO it was easy i,removed water pump, fans , idler pulley, ....mark plug boots with a marker/silver paint pen as to there location "its on the dist.cap".
Last edited by defaultexistence; 05-19-2010 at 09:08 PM. Reason: O.C.D.
05-19-2010, 09:33 PM
#16
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To begin with just as it was warming up to oper temp and would crank again 5after cooling down 5-15min. ,then progressively got worse and worse until i wouldn't even get down the street from home. no need to remove the hub just the pulley comes off easy with a lil heat and pb blaster in my case....i sanded the hub and pulley surface areas to remove surface rust with fine sand paper, heated pulley so it would expand, greased the hub and it went on like hot butter! good luck!
05-20-2010, 02:03 PM
#17
Ok so I got 4 codes from it today.
#16 stating that the pcm was recieving low pulse from opti?
#22 TPS too low
#72 transmission output speed sensor
#58 Transmission temperature high
Also got a low reading to the Mass air flow as well, I forgot the code
#16 stating that the pcm was recieving low pulse from opti?
#22 TPS too low
#72 transmission output speed sensor
#58 Transmission temperature high
Also got a low reading to the Mass air flow as well, I forgot the code
05-20-2010, 02:21 PM
#18
Whew, you got your work cut out for you.
DTC 16 is a fault in the low resolution pulse of the optispark. This could either be the wiring or the optispark itself. If the wiring checks out okay, your distributor is at fault. If you are unsure as to how to check the wiring, I'll walk you through it.
DTC 22 means your TPS signal voltage is too low. Anything under .23v will set the code. Check the blue signal wire at the TPS with the key on, engine off, and the throttle in the closed position. Check for a binding throttle cable/linkage if it is below .23v @ KOEO (this is assuming you have a stock throttle body).
DTC 72 means that you've got a fault in the VSS. Check the wiring on the tailshaft. It's pretty vulnerable to road debris.
DTC 58 shows that your trans temperature is reaching 306+ degrees. This may or may not be intermittent.
DTC 16 is a fault in the low resolution pulse of the optispark. This could either be the wiring or the optispark itself. If the wiring checks out okay, your distributor is at fault. If you are unsure as to how to check the wiring, I'll walk you through it.
DTC 22 means your TPS signal voltage is too low. Anything under .23v will set the code. Check the blue signal wire at the TPS with the key on, engine off, and the throttle in the closed position. Check for a binding throttle cable/linkage if it is below .23v @ KOEO (this is assuming you have a stock throttle body).
DTC 72 means that you've got a fault in the VSS. Check the wiring on the tailshaft. It's pretty vulnerable to road debris.
DTC 58 shows that your trans temperature is reaching 306+ degrees. This may or may not be intermittent.