Time for a new Short Block
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Time for a new Short Block Well my LT1 is having problems keeping oil pressure up.
So I am going to build a new short block and I want to put better pistons and cam and I am going to use a 4 bolt block. What are some good pistons that are better than stock? And What about a LT4 Hot cam? Im new to these LT1's and dont know very much. So any input would be appreciated on parts. I plan to still use the LT1 Heads and Cold Air intake.
So I am going to build a new short block and I want to put better pistons and cam and I am going to use a 4 bolt block. What are some good pistons that are better than stock? And What about a LT4 Hot cam? Im new to these LT1's and dont know very much. So any input would be appreciated on parts. I plan to still use the LT1 Heads and Cold Air intake. For a rebuild, mild, or even higher HP build, you don't need the 4-bolt block. Save that money for elsewhere in your build (unless you already have the block).
For pistons, a standard 4.030" hypereutectic (or forged if you plan on spray) from Mahle will do you just fine. I'd recommend reconditioning the stock rods and crank and reusing them as well while boring the cylinders out to clean them up.
The cam will require some extra coinage, like roller rockers, valve springs, pushrods, a mail-order tune etc. The hotcam is nice to just plug and play and forget about it, but there are many other (better) options available. Check out the cam sticky at the top of the page for all kinds of information.
For pistons, a standard 4.030" hypereutectic (or forged if you plan on spray) from Mahle will do you just fine. I'd recommend reconditioning the stock rods and crank and reusing them as well while boring the cylinders out to clean them up.
The cam will require some extra coinage, like roller rockers, valve springs, pushrods, a mail-order tune etc. The hotcam is nice to just plug and play and forget about it, but there are many other (better) options available. Check out the cam sticky at the top of the page for all kinds of information.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
I have a man that has a ready to go 4 bolt block and he will sell it to me for 150$ ive known him for a long time. So I figure it would be nice.
I will Buy new rods and a new LT1 Steel crank.
I will put roller rockers and im thinking Z28 springs unless someone suggest better ones. Push rods I have NO clue on, someone will have to guide me in the direction for better ones. And thanks for your help man! I will plan on having it re-tuned and programed so i can turn the programer back on. ( I have it turned off for now due to motor issues)
I will Buy new rods and a new LT1 Steel crank.
I will put roller rockers and im thinking Z28 springs unless someone suggest better ones. Push rods I have NO clue on, someone will have to guide me in the direction for better ones. And thanks for your help man! I will plan on having it re-tuned and programed so i can turn the programer back on. ( I have it turned off for now due to motor issues)
I have a man that has a ready to go 4 bolt block and he will sell it to me for 150$ ive known him for a long time. So I figure it would be nice.
I will Buy new rods and a new LT1 Steel crank.
I will put roller rockers and im thinking Z28 springs unless someone suggest better ones. Push rods I have NO clue on, someone will have to guide me in the direction for better ones. And thanks for your help man! I will plan on having it re-tuned and programed so i can turn the programer back on. ( I have it turned off for now due to motor issues)
I will Buy new rods and a new LT1 Steel crank.
I will put roller rockers and im thinking Z28 springs unless someone suggest better ones. Push rods I have NO clue on, someone will have to guide me in the direction for better ones. And thanks for your help man! I will plan on having it re-tuned and programed so i can turn the programer back on. ( I have it turned off for now due to motor issues)
There's absolutely no reason to buy new rods and a new crank if you're staying with the stock stroke. Buying new would be an unfortunate waste of money. Don't do it.
Have your stock ones reconditioned.There's no such things as "Z28" springs. You need valve springs matched to the cam that you use. The pushrods you use will need to be measured to length once the heads are bolted down.
What do you mean "so i can turn the programer back on?" Do you have a Hypertech or some other hand-held tuner? If so, get rid of it. A solid mail-order tune is what you will need.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Good buy on the block. For $150, why not. Some people pay a premium price for the 4-bolt blocks.
There's absolutely no reason to buy new rods and a new crank if you're staying with the stock stroke. Buying new would be an unfortunate waste of money. Don't do it. Have your stock ones reconditioned.
There's no such things as "Z28" springs. You need valve springs matched to the cam that you use. The pushrods you use will need to be measured to length once the heads are bolted down.
What do you mean "so i can turn the programer back on?" Do you have a Hypertech or some other hand-held tuner? If so, get rid of it. A solid mail-order tune is what you will need.
There's absolutely no reason to buy new rods and a new crank if you're staying with the stock stroke. Buying new would be an unfortunate waste of money. Don't do it.
Have your stock ones reconditioned.There's no such things as "Z28" springs. You need valve springs matched to the cam that you use. The pushrods you use will need to be measured to length once the heads are bolted down.
What do you mean "so i can turn the programer back on?" Do you have a Hypertech or some other hand-held tuner? If so, get rid of it. A solid mail-order tune is what you will need.
I am going to build another block before i tear this motor apart! Thats why I am Buying New rods and Crank. And yes i have a Hand held Tuner. The car is Fairly new to me and I dont know to much about it or the LT1's so its baby steps for me for now. lol im steadly learning.
And what is a Solid mail-order tune? Ok, on the Z28 springs im used to talking 350's and carb's! lol Know I now that i need to match springs and cam!
And yes i have a Hand held Tuner. The car is Fairly new to me and I dont know to much about it or the LT1's so its baby steps for me for now. lol im steadly learning. And what is a Solid mail-order tune?
And yes i have a Hand held Tuner. The car is Fairly new to me and I dont know to much about it or the LT1's so its baby steps for me for now. lol im steadly learning.
And what is a Solid mail-order tune?A mail-order tune is when you order a PCM that is programmed for your combination for the engine to run properly. You either receive the new PCM in the mail or they email you the tune and you load it yourself with a laptop, software, and interface cable.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Definitely ditch the hand-held jobby. What brand/type is it? Hypertech?
A mail-order tune is when you order a PCM that is programmed for your combination for the engine to run properly. You either receive the new PCM in the mail or they email you the tune and you load it yourself with a laptop, software, and interface cable.
A mail-order tune is when you order a PCM that is programmed for your combination for the engine to run properly. You either receive the new PCM in the mail or they email you the tune and you load it yourself with a laptop, software, and interface cable.
Yes it is a Hypertech. I have noticed that knowbody on here has anything to do with programers!
And would i tell them all my motor specs and they build this PCM? Or is there just one for my motor with the slight upgrades?
Trending Topics
What other bolt-on modifications do you have? Headers, intake exhaust, etc.?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
Rockstar
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,582
Likes: 0
From: I'm on a boat! in Shreveport, La
Wow 150 is a steal! I really wish more people tuned LT1's locally, using mail order tunes can kind of be a pain if you want a very personalized tune. But for what you get, it's spot on and will make the car run worlds better if you're doing it yourself or stock.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Wow 150 is a steal! I really wish more people tuned LT1's locally, using mail order tunes can kind of be a pain if you want a very personalized tune. But for what you get, it's spot on and will make the car run worlds better if you're doing it yourself or stock.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Check out www.pcmforless.com. They will list everything you need to do to get the right PCM program for you. It's pretty simple.
What other bolt-on modifications do you have? Headers, intake exhaust, etc.?
What other bolt-on modifications do you have? Headers, intake exhaust, etc.?
As far as I know right now, twin 52mm throttle body, Holley cold air intake with cone filter, throttle body by-pass, and the Hypertech. With, New TPS, MSD Coil, Drilled and Slotted rotors with ceramic pads,and LT4 Knock sensor module,Fuel pump, Fuel Filter, Fuel pressure regulator, and Accell Distributor. That is about all i know on the motor parts! The motor came out of LG Motorsprots. Also has several Hotckins suspension parts installed, as well as tubular sub-frame connectors. And a T56 trans!!!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
I would have to say around 13.5 @ 100- 105 with a good launch in the 1/4. The T56 cars are hard to judge what times will be, because it depends a lot on the driver.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Very True! I was thinking around high 13 or low 14 And i am still learning that trans so it will probably be slower. lol
with the 4-bolt block make sure its an LTx block first... secondly 2 bolt mains with arp hardware will support alot of power. thirdly if your not looking to make a butt load of power, then your stock crank and rods (aslong as there still in good shape) will be sufficient. just have them get reconditioned as stated above.
I'm going to toss in my $.02 here.....If you're starting with a bare block, why not go stroker? It won't cost you hardly any more money to do a 383/396 vs. a 355 or 350. Since you're looking at buying a crank and rods anyway, talk with a sponsor about a rotating assembly and start there. The 52mm will support a 383 as long as you're not going overly wild on the build. Spend the extra coin on a set of long tubes, and a good head/cam package and you'll have one heck of a driver without spending too much more than if you do a 355. Once it's done, a mail order tune will get it started for you, but definitely get a dyno tune and you'll be alot happier. Personally I do a combo of road and dyno, just to make sure the car lives on the street.....I hate Dyno queens. You've got a rare opportunity in building a motor before the old one dies for good, use it too your advantage and build something fun....
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
I'm going to toss in my $.02 here.....If you're starting with a bare block, why not go stroker? It won't cost you hardly any more money to do a 383/396 vs. a 355 or 350. Since you're looking at buying a crank and rods anyway, talk with a sponsor about a rotating assembly and start there. The 52mm will support a 383 as long as you're not going overly wild on the build. Spend the extra coin on a set of long tubes, and a good head/cam package and you'll have one heck of a driver without spending too much more than if you do a 355. Once it's done, a mail order tune will get it started for you, but definitely get a dyno tune and you'll be alot happier. Personally I do a combo of road and dyno, just to make sure the car lives on the street.....I hate Dyno queens. You've got a rare opportunity in building a motor before the old one dies for good, use it too your advantage and build something fun....
you can use the 400 crank....you may have to get an adapter for the rear main seal, depending on if you have an old two piece type. Since the LTx is a one piece seal, it's only an adapter away, so yes you can use it. Go with some scat 6" rods and a set of Hyperutectic pistons, with the proper set of heads will definitely get you 450 RWHP.....You probably won't get 20+ mpg, unless your combo is optimized......keep the rear gear around 3.23 and no higher numerically, then only get a stall in the 2200 max range.....You'll have to cam accordingly because of that, which will probably bring your HP numbers down.....Unfortunately it's hard to make HP and keep good fuel economy with the old school SBC......you can't get blood from a turnip....