LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Stock Crank and Rods?

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Old May 26, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #21  
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Ive decided to upgrade the rod bolts and use the stock crank and rods themselves. Engines gonna be using a 67mm turbo and wont need to spin past 6krpm with that turbo. If i happen to come up with some extra cash then ill throw in new rods. I dont think ill absolutly need them for my street build.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
One could always have the stock rods magnafluxed and reconditioned if need be for a fraction of the cost of purchasing new.
would getting them treated w/ one of those processes like mikronite be a good idea as well? I wonder how much it would cost for 8 CR's... I'm trying to remember how much more it ran me to get the process done when I had my tranny rebuilt
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Old May 27, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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So those parts would be ok on my supercharged stock LT1?
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Old May 28, 2010 | 06:35 AM
  #24  
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Yup. I got my engine out now and planning on putting in low compression forged pistons but leave the crank and rods alone besides upgrading to ARP Rod Bolts. If i was gonna be drag racing the car i probably would upgrade the rods just for added safety. With good tuning you'd be really surprised how much the stock stuff can handle. Im a firm believer that 9/10 times the person is to blame for the motor breaking, not really the power.
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Old May 28, 2010 | 07:14 AM
  #25  
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Bolts definitely help the strength a lot. I know the stock rods are a ton stronger than a lot of people tend to think and I wouldn't think twice about running them on an h/c 400+ RWHP motor. But if you are seriously looking at making over 500 at the tires, then considering the cost of a proper turbo build it just seems like a good idea to upgrade the rods if you have the funds. You're already in there anyway. Probably not required but seems like it would be worth the peace of mind.

Last edited by nighthawk15; May 28, 2010 at 07:23 AM.
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Old May 28, 2010 | 09:15 AM
  #26  
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Yeah i know what you mean. Im kinda just doing a starter build for now. Something on the cheaper side to get the car on the road. I dont really think ill see over 500whp with a 67mm and TH350 using 93 octane. Its seriously only gonna be a cruiser/daily driver and more than likely wont need to rev past 6000rpm. I know you guys are gonna recommend keeping the overdrive but im keeping the long rear gear and dont see speeds over 60mph driving around here. I rarely ever go on the highway.
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Old May 29, 2010 | 07:57 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Speedy
Agree with this 100%. Bolts are the problem with the pink rods, replace them and you are good. But some shops say the PM rods let go (snap, split) without warning.
My experience with this is that when PM rods fail they snap. When this happens there is usually major block damage. Forged rods like the old pink rods will usually bend. In that case you just need to replace the rod (and maybe the piston). In every case of rod failure that I have had the cause was always something else, such as dropping a valve or wrist pin failure.
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