Stock Crank and Rods?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 242
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From: Glen Rock, PA
Sounds good. Im gonna be putting a 67mm turbo on so ill have forged pistons in but im not going crazy with the size of the turbo and i dont race anymore so it wont see alot of abuse. Just gonna be something for my cruising enjoyment. Ill go with new rods and pistons and then have the heads and intake ported. Should make for a responsive powerful street car without spending a ton in the engine.
you would be suprised on how much power a stock crank can take..rods also once up graded with arp 190 or 220psi bolts...
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
From: Glen Rock, PA
Yeah i definitly dont doubt the potential of a stock crank and rods. Different engine but my SR20DET i had in my 240sx was seeing 420whp on the stock bottom end for a long time and after i built the block i kept the stock crank and had it polished and balanced and it was holding perfectly fine with 550+whp and revving past 9krpm on occasions. Ill ask my engine builder what he would suggest. Like i said before, i wont be racing this car like i did with my nissan. Its just gonna be a so so powerful cruiser. Im not against spending money where its needed but at the same time i dont want a race engine that all im gonna use it for is on the street.
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Exactly. LT1 rods are no joke. I don't recall ever hearing or reading someone who has/had broken/bent a LT1 rod that wasn't influenced by some other catastrophic failure.
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its my opinion that the part had a freak defect that caused the failure.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 173
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From: Marysville. WA
My 95 Camaro had a broken rod when I got it. Rebuilt the motor with all new stuff bored .030 over and it runs great. Last year my GF Trans Am broke a rod the same way write in half. Her car was bone stock and not racing it. I had another stock engine laying around so I put ARP rod bolts in it, resized the rods new rings and bearings. I hope it holds together but I have had 2 LT1's break rods and one I know was not abused.
Many well setup heads/cam cars make more than that.
The stock rods are pretty good within the rpm limits of the pcm especially when resized and ARP'd. GIZMO likes to rev higher and rpms are harder on rods than anything.
The only time I would use stock crank and rods would be for a NA motor and it wouldn't be spun past 6800-7000 anyways. You can't just say every stock crank and rod is good for 550 cause they are not. I would at least have them checked and ditch the stock crap rod bolts cause you don't want them to fail. If this car is going to see a lot of street time then your going to want the reliability. If its just going to the track use whatever you want. I've snapped a stock wrist pin in a stock internal LT1 on the street before and I wasn't doing anything special. I don't have total faith in all stock parts.
A lot of guys who blindly bought "better" stuff without actually looking at how things actually work will tell you stock is bad. Once you take a closer look a lot of us have done very well on stock parts.
Then again you may not be using the best parts, but you know how to build a motor and not throw expensive parts at it.
if on a budget you can swap rod bolts an us the stock crank..if you got 350$ then grab your self some rods...once i get up there in power rods an new pistons are the first i do along with getting it all balanced..remember if your planing on spraying build your engine like your making the juice power constant an stay on your tune ups
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 634
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From: In the garage fixing LT1
Agree with this 100%. Bolts are the problem with the pink rods, replace them and you are good. But some shops say the PM rods let go (snap, split) without warning.