What Converter?
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Not really sure if this is the right forum, i know about the auto trans forum but seems hard to get a answer to any question. Im looking around for a new torque converter and just wonder if i should stay stock or get one with a bigger stall. Two questions tho, first my car has headers, exhaust, gear, and there is a possible shift kit, should i stay with a stock one or go better. Second question is im not looking to spend a ton of money because i just finished doing brakes all the way around and im a little tight for money.
Gotta replace now since the clutch in the stator is bad.
Thanks for any help that can be given and if this is the wrong forum for this im sorry guys but thought should ask since it deals with lt1 motors
Gotta replace now since the clutch in the stator is bad.
Thanks for any help that can be given and if this is the wrong forum for this im sorry guys but thought should ask since it deals with lt1 motors
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You shouldn't really cheap out on a converter. You could go with a replacement B&M or something for the time being, until you are ready to do other mods (like a cam or something, where you would more than likely have to get a different converter than that of a bolt-on car). Your call. I would personally spend the money once and buy a PI Vigilante or something along those lines that has a free re-stall. Upward of $800 though.
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A converter is the SINGLE most effective mod that can be done to an auto. It would be a mistake to stick another stock sized stall in the car, I would suggest a 3200 minimum. A converter is also the one thing I would never cheap out on, I dunno your budget but you gotta figure atleast $600+ for a quality converter. Don't forget to get a trans cooler, the B&M 70264 is really popular on here and works great.
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A converter is the SINGLE most effective mod that can be done to an auto. It would be a mistake to stick another stock sized stall in the car, I would suggest a 3200 minimum. A converter is also the one thing I would never cheap out on, I dunno your budget but you gotta figure atleast $600+ for a quality converter. Don't forget to get a trans cooler, the B&M 70264 is really popular on here and works great.
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i would go with a b&m or tci. im no expert on converters. but i think the yank and the vig and other similar brands are more for drag racing and high hp cars. dont get me wrong they probably work great for any car but its a must for those cars. i think every one else could get away with a TCI or B&M and be fine.
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i would go with a b&m or tci. im no expert on converters. but i think the yank and the vig and other similar brands are more for drag racing and high hp cars. dont get me wrong they probably work great for any car but its a must for those cars. i think every one else could get away with a TCI or B&M and be fine.
OP, Read this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
With the bad experience my friends have had with PI, I would either be going Circle D or Yank if I had an auto...
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i would go with a b&m or tci. im no expert on converters. but i think the yank and the vig and other similar brands are more for drag racing and high hp cars. dont get me wrong they probably work great for any car but its a must for those cars. i think every one else could get away with a TCI or B&M and be fine.
#9
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Look up Redneck performance. I hope I don't get in trouble because there no a sponsor hear, but good converters at a reasonable price. I have done a lot of research on them and also have one of there 3500 stall 9.5 converters.
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Obviously not....
OP, Read this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
With the bad experience my friends have had with PI, I would either be going Circle D or Yank if I had an auto...
OP, Read this: https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html
With the bad experience my friends have had with PI, I would either be going Circle D or Yank if I had an auto...
i also dont like the idea of pulling one tq converter out of one car and saying look this failed. when god knows what kind of millage and how abused the car was. they could of had a seal leak and drove it with low tranny fluid or been doing brake stands. like i said yes you can see the difference in the clutch ban and lock up surface. but again are we talking overkill for a person who dds a stock car or one with a exhaust?
maybe your better off listening to these guy i don't know. like i said im no expert.
Last edited by Adam1203; 06-10-2010 at 12:09 PM.
#13
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Sorry to say this but any "performance" converter priced brand new for under $400 or even under $500 is going to be garbage plain and simple. The only way to get a converter to stall high (3000+) and have the cost cheap, is to use a JUNK casing from an older GM vehicle. The insides aren't good enough to handle heat and power from a 350+hp motor. It might last for a little while and provide some enjoyment but it will eventually cause you thousands of dollars in damages when it takes out the tranny by filling it with metal. When you buy a GOOD converter from a reputable company, you get a bigger casing SPECIFICALLY designed to handle a lot of power. It will be welded, and brazed, and will be pretty much indestructable.
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#15
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Circle D makes some high quality converters. The reason the one in the link is only $400 is because it's an 11" diameter with a stall speed up to 2600. It also doesn't have the features that a more expensive converter has, it appears to be great for a mild DD but not want you want behind a high hp car that frequents the track. For $725 Circle D makes a really nice 9.75" converter with a stall speed of 3000-4400, billet front, billet piston, furnace brazed, hand assembled to exact tolerances yada yada yada, you get what you pay for in a converter essentially.
#16
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Circle D makes some high quality converters. The reason the one in the link is only $400 is because it's an 11" diameter with a stall speed up to 2600. It also doesn't have the features that a more expensive converter has, it appears to be great for a mild DD but not want you want behind a high hp car that frequents the track. For $725 Circle D makes a really nice 9.75" converter with a stall speed of 3000-4400, billet front, billet piston, furnace brazed, hand assembled to exact tolerances yada yada yada, you get what you pay for in a converter essentially.
I was thinking of building my car really mild just because I enjoy driving it so much, but I hear a stall is definitely a nice upgrade. My car is an intake/exhaust car that will probably not get much more then a baby cam/longtubes/tune/3.42's or 3.73's. I don't think my budget will allow a higher HP build (full time student).
You think it would fit well for me or should I hold out and go bigger?
#17
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Ah okay.
I was thinking of building my car really mild just because I enjoy driving it so much, but I hear a stall is definitely a nice upgrade. My car is an intake/exhaust car that will probably not get much more then a baby cam/longtubes/tune/3.42's or 3.73's. I don't think my budget will allow a higher HP build (full time student).
You think it would fit well for me or should I hold out and go bigger?
I was thinking of building my car really mild just because I enjoy driving it so much, but I hear a stall is definitely a nice upgrade. My car is an intake/exhaust car that will probably not get much more then a baby cam/longtubes/tune/3.42's or 3.73's. I don't think my budget will allow a higher HP build (full time student).
You think it would fit well for me or should I hold out and go bigger?
#19
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Why does a performance converter have to be expensive. TCI and B&M are not very efficient converters actually. I'm not trying to be a now it all but call and talk to Loyd Elliot and ask him about TCI and B&M, I bet you'll change your mind. And for that matter do a search on Redneck performance, lots of guys running them, and with good luck. FYI I switched from one of your so called efficient converter company's with the same stall, that was the only mod at that time and picked up 3 tenths and 5 mph with a redneck converter. So don't bash them just yet!