LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Engine Wash

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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 12:23 PM
  #21  
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I always spray mine with simple green and then power wash it, of course I dont spray the opti directly but who in there right mind would !???????!!!
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 12:59 PM
  #22  
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A real car guy washes both his car and his engine bay/engine by hand.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 01:00 AM
  #23  
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well i guess I'm a fake guy, that would suck *** and would never be as clean as simple green and a power wash, I guess i just trust my work lol. I'm such an ***. I do spray directly at the opti though, i like to keep that red msd cap shiney lol.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:48 AM
  #24  
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if it is a vented opti you should be able to un hook both vacuum lines and air blow it ( VerY GENTLY ) or let it dry itself out... the lines at the opti itself if you let them drain...it may take several days, I have heard of someone getting his wet and it took a week for it to dry but he didn't have to spend no cash
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 08:59 AM
  #25  
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There was a huge storm a couple of weeks ago and while driving I got the dreaded opti stumble with SES. I just let it sit a few days and it's fine right now. Last year I had to take it through a car wash (for the first/only time) and the wash guy shot the front end with a power washer = dead opti.

Like a poster above, I clean my engine with Simple Green, a stiff brush, a bucket of water and a lot of rags. I'm beginning to think the power washer is one of the most over used tools in recent times. Those things are terrible for how most people use them - decks, cars, boats, siding, etc. A simple hose usually will do the trick instead of forcing water where it shouldn't go.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #26  
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why do you need to power wash an engine? I just dont get why people do it......It must be cool to soak down every sensitive electronic piece in the engine bay
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:50 AM
  #27  
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I would NEVER use a power washer on my LT1. Thats a no-no.
I also never drive in the rain. Ive had 3 LT1's and never had an opti go bad.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 01:47 PM
  #28  
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OK, thanks for the scolding, the kajoling, and the advise! Yes, new owner with good intent. Have let it dry, no improvment so guess it is time to dig into and replace the optispark so I need some real advise from some wrenchturners. Lots of products out there, saw in one of the previous replys that the cap and rotor was used by MDS; what is best? The MDS 8381 replacement seam like a good option but costly compared to a $100replacement off ebay. Any feedback on the MDS products verses the factory replacements.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 03:30 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by curtb
OK, thanks for the scolding, the kajoling, and the advise! Yes, new owner with good intent. Have let it dry, no improvment so guess it is time to dig into and replace the optispark so I need some real advise from some wrenchturners. Lots of products out there, saw in one of the previous replys that the cap and rotor was used by MDS; what is best? The MDS 8381 replacement seam like a good option but costly compared to a $100replacement off ebay. Any feedback on the MDS products verses the factory replacements.
The general consensus is to go with a genuine GM optispark. The ones on eBay may be tempting but DON'T do it unless it's clear it's a GM part. A lot of people recommend sealing the sides up with RTV. Some people like the MSD, but many people don't. People who have the Dynaspark seem to like it, but it's a little more pricey than the original GM part. If your water pump is old, now would be a good time to change it since it sits right over the opti and you have to take it off anyway.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 03:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by curtb
OK, thanks for the scolding, the kajoling, and the advise! Yes, new owner with good intent. Have let it dry, no improvment so guess it is time to dig into and replace the optispark so I need some real advise from some wrenchturners. Lots of products out there, saw in one of the previous replys that the cap and rotor was used by MDS; what is best? The MDS 8381 replacement seam like a good option but costly compared to a $100replacement off ebay. Any feedback on the MDS products verses the factory replacements.
You might try pulling the cap and rotor and letting it dry some more. The only down side is that you'd have to pull the water pump, but you'd only be out the cost of gaskets and a couple hours of time. In fact, maybe a "dry out", along with a new cap and rotor, since you're already in there, could get you back on the road without spending a ton...
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