GREGG 97Z

iTrader: (4)

I use royal purple in the Z since I want a liitle extra hp from an oil and only put 3k / yr on it. In my DD Trailblazer and the wife's Altima I've used M1 15k oil on each along with either a k&n or M1 filter. That stuff rules, saves a ton of time and money compared to conventional oils. A close relative of mine is a long time Mobil oil sales rep and she told me 10 years ago that their testing showed that the oil didnt start breaking down till 18-20K!!! Been using it in our DD's ever since without ever having an engine problem. Well worth the cost.

fleetmgr

Sorry...you can't tell a thing about an oil by looking at it unless it has chunks in it. Oil get to looking nasty during the oxidation process - that's why it turn dark. Has nothing to do with the dirt level, which only an analysis can tell you. You also can't tell anything about viscosity by feel.

fleetmgr

Doesn't say much for the Mobil 1 of 25 years ago, does it?
Technology doesn't rest, neither should you. Comparing todays oils with what used to be is apples and oranges (unless you're talking about Rotella, it's pretty much the same today as it was in the '50's.), in fact oils have changed pretty drastically...look at the updated API specifications. Those don't get changed just because someone thought it was a good idea.

brucer

i tell you what, go stick your fingers in some used 4000mile oil and rub them together, then stick your fingers in some fresh oil and rub them together.. tell me what you think...not to damned difficult to feel the difference

i heard alot of engine builders use that old rotella to break in new engines. i have used it since the 80s.. speaking of which, why did they start dropping zinc from oils? and about the same time they started dropping the zinc from the automotive oils is when lifters and cams started failing?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

2 reasons....#1 zinc helps to foul catalytic converters; #2 most engines built today, by OE manufacturers, have roller lifters, therefore that high load, high friction point has been eliminated. Therefore the extra zinc is no longer required.

SPOT ME 3

iTrader: (1)

I went every 10,000 and look what happened to me!

EmPeRor

In ksa

change oil after 1600km or 1000 miles because hot

brucer

the government mandated oil companies to remove zinc because of emission components, namely catalytic converters were experiencing premature failure because of it..

i copied this:
ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate)has been a important additive in oil for many years . This substance is what creates a very fine film on internal engine parts (most importantly the cam to flat-lifter contact point) and basically sacrifices itself to keep major wear from occurring on the actual parts themselves. Almost all current engines now use roller lifters that do not require this additive or protection. This leaves anyone with a older flat lifter engine out of luck and potentially putting oil in their vehicle that can cause extreme wear on internals.

what about main and rod bearings theyre pretty much metal to metal surfaces, unless they changed something i dont know about.

so basicly what is being said,the reduction of zinc (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) has lessened the quality of protection you get from oil nowadays.

fleetmgr

When an engine is running, bearings are not metal to metal nor do the have the loading that a flat tappet cam has on it.
The zinc has been replaced by other additives like calcium sulfonate. The newer oils do a better job of protecting, as long as you aren't breaking in a flat tappet cam.

fleetmgr

Didn't say you won't feel a difference. I said you can't tell if there's been a viscosity change, or if the oil is still fit for use. Only a lab can tell you that.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

I change my oil twice a year (pretty much regardless of mileage), never had an internal problem other than a blown head gasket - but that was due to the water pump taking a crap.

Better test:

Stick your fingers in 1000 mile oil, 5000 mile oil, and 10,000 mile oil and tell me if you can tell the difference.

brucer

a cold start, the bearing and journals are relying on an oil film to protect them. zinc give this added protection.

i dont think oil today is as good as it use to be. the synthetics are better than they use to be 10yrs ago, but i dont think the synthetics and regular oils today are as good as regular oil use to be years ago, and the zinc additive is the reason. example rotella oil.

LT1559

iTrader: (5)

how much extra hp do you get from the royal purple?

mrchyzy16

iTrader: (1)

cant be much if any. I have read that its supposed to free horsepower somehow but i dont see how it could any better than any other synthetic oil.

GREGG 97Z

iTrader: (4)

I've never dynoed the car before & after using it (I'm not THAT concerned about it ). They did an episode of HP TV with a before/after test using dyno oil then switching to all RP fluids (eng/trans/rear) and picked up like 3-5 hp.
Not saying that's gospel or anything but if one type of oil can possibly add a few HP over another it's worth a shot to me.

fleetmgr

If you think Rotella is good, then use it. I know oils have progressed significantly in the last 40 years or so, based on extensive training. Witness my 39k mile oil on my F350, which Rotella is incapable of doing under any conditions, and wasn't acheivable 15 years ago, much less 30 or 40. If you think the old oils were good, then I'd say you never got into any engine that ran what was available in the 70's or 80's. You've never seen such sludge, even with 3k changes. They didn't have the additives then to resist thermal breakdown.
Your reference to cold start on bearings is called boundary layer lubrication, and todays oils do a MUCH better job of it than in years gone by.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/3231795-post1.html

transam001

iTrader: (3)

i go 15,000 miles in my 09 bmw. that is what they recommend.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

What I have been around are vehicles I have owned and put miles on. The point by using a conventional means a name brand oil such as Quaker State or equivalent. I used a mixture of QS and Pennzoil in a 2.8L Camaro. Drove it from 23,000 to 210,000 miles. Engine innards were clean. You don't have to spend retarded money or follow the voodoo to keep an engine clean. Just use basic common sense and an engine will last. I drove my SS from zero miles to over 100K miles using Quaker State and the engine innards were spotless.

fleetmgr

I'm curious why you'd do this, as the same company makes both.
So, you did this using a commodity oil changing it every 3k? Sure it'll be clean...but you can do the same thing with less money on a MUCH longer drain interval with fewer filters and less time expended by using oils I'm talking about. The net result is it WILL save money.