which tool are you guys using to check installed spring height? any better than others?

 

take your pick...

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...ing+micrometer

 

how bout that comp cams one for 65?, has the widest range.

 

for some reason i cant edit my post..when i say before i get into coil bind im meaning the .060 that your suppost to keep and have between your spring coils when your at max lift.

 

Here's a pic of the springs installed on my head just before I torqued down the bolts. I used vernier calipers to measure a 1.8" spring height. Verniers have a greater margin of error than a spring micrometer, but since this is a smaller cam @.544 max lift (accounting for the 1.6 Pro Magnums) I think I should be alright. This should give you a better idea of what the retainers look like:

 

Glad I saw this thread!

I needed a set of springs for my rearmount since it is down for a 4L80 and these seem to be ideal. I will be using a small cam 206/206 .533" so with a .05" shim these will fine and they are American made and have a great price!

Great find thanks for sharing

 

were you able to slap them "right on" or did you have to grind a little here and there?

 

No grinding. They just dropped in over the hats. 1.48" at max lift. Have the ProMags on them now. Plenty of clearance.

 

BUT

Read the entire ad you will need seals he sells a set for 15 plus 5 shipping. I received mine yesterday good looking setup will be fine for my .533 lift cam and other than the seals is complete.

 

any updates?

 

i think its a hell of a deal. he has a new double spring out for a $113 thats good for .700" but i believe some machining would be needed on a stock head...its steal esp. since it comes with all the hardware to install them.

http://www.alexsparts.com/products/D...6-Mech-FT.html

 

This is the last I saw of them. Engine is together now, will be two weeks before it's running in the car. #1 cyl. max exh. lift on cc503, 1.6 rockers, 7.1" pushrods, 180 deg. of preload. There's plenty of room before coil bind as you can see, and the Pro Mags clear them easily. I will post again when it's running.

 

well i stopped by Lunati and picked up my new cam.so hopefully these springs will be my next purchase after i buy my rockers.

 

several aspect of if a valve spring is good enough . . . .

1- coil bind - this is measured from installed ht to coil bind and basically how much travel there is. This tells how much lift they can take before coil binding. If the spring coil binds at a measurement lower than your cams lift with .030-.050" clearance, the spring will not work. These are sold as a .600 lift spring so that part seems good for most.

2- seat/open pressure - this is the spring pressure with valve closed and opened to .600 lift. Most hyd rollers are goona want 145 lbs on seat and 330 lbs open although some lazy lobes cam get by with 130 lbs or so of seat pressure. Some aggressive lobes need 155 lbs on the seat and 350+ open.

The cam manufacturer or cam designer can tell you what spring pressure you need for a specific cam.

3- quality of material used - Everything above (1 and 2) can be measured at any machine shop. This however is something that can't. You just have to know the material it is made from or have experience with this EXACT spring with certain lobes and RPM to know if it is good enough.

4- harmonics and single/dbl springs - all springs have some harmonics and at some RPM, it will go haywire for sevral RPM. This can be every 2132 RPM (2132, 4264, 6386 RPM, etc) or every 1804 RPM (1804, 3608, 5212, 7016 RPM, etc). At some point, every spring will do this. The advantage of a dbl spring is that you ahve 2 spings with 2 different RPMs that this is occurring and so the valve trane will at least have 1 spring doing its job at every RPM so the valve trane has a better chance of staying stable.

A single spring doesn't have this luxary and so when you use a hyd roller cam with big/heavy lifters and aggressive lobes, you end up with a spring that can have problems in the real world much sooner than it should on paper. The old Combination Motor sports CM 612 was a good example of this.

Some springs will work based on # 1 and 2 but due to #3 and/or 4, they end up failing in the real world.

Time will tell if these springs can handle the abuse and what the limits are. i am sure there will be some people using these on large duration (234 or larger) and high lift (.575 or higher) with aggressive lobes and spinning 6500-6800 RPM with them. If they work on cams like this, someone will but them and use them on something even larger until we find the breaking point.

 

^ very good points

alot of people forget some of this stuff and or dont even know to check for that..The comp cams 276n2o cam im going with im well in range to use with these springs.

An ill be putting them to the test seeing thats a 224/236 dur @.50 an ill be spinning to around 6800 or 7k.

 

any update on these springs and how they are holding up?

 

Thanks nighttrain66 for the write up on this topic.

I hope someone try these with a big cam soon.

 

im ordering them this weekend..im using a diff cam then what i did post..my new cam is 242/248 .567/.585 on 112 lobe..my car wont be back up an running till end of aug though.

 

Any updates on these springs?

Oh and this guy does make a dual spring kit especially for LT1 heads
"1.265" OD dual spring kit for LT1" max lift .700"

kit sells for 113.99 + ship. You have to contact him through his site to order these.

 

they're probably erson or pbm springs,locks and retainers.. which ive posted about the erson's before... they make good ,reliable , economical valvetrain components.... you did use the spring seats didnt you?


lunati also sells a economical spring also
i think these would work good..
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/73943/10002/-1