there is no seal except for the o-ring on the pumps front cover/electric water pump. some people have chosen to run a small bead of rtv just for added security though, but factory there is no "gasket" per say except for the o-ring.Again with the thermostat housing, there is no gasket or seal for it. The thermostat housing seals through the rubbing ring that comes on the thermostat itself, if running with no thermostat, the rubber ring needs to be removed from the thermostat, and sat in place to seal the housing. but your local parts store is correct in that there is no gasket for the thermostat housing alone.

hope this helps.

 

yes it is fairly thick from what i remember i should know had about 12 of them in my hand

 

yes there is a gasket it goes around the thermostat itself

 

Thanks a bunch guys!

 

Ughhh, I need to vent.

Dropped the motor in the car this past weekend and gotten it bolted up to tranny.

I am having a hell of a time with the headers (pacesetter LT) and motor mounts (new prothane). I ran out of time/light with the driver side header in place, but the steering linkage disconnected and the motor mount unbolted. I cannot for the life of me get the mount to line up with the holes. It also looks like I will have trouble getting the linkage connected eventually, but thats a problem for another day.

The passenger side mount is in but the header is ajar slightly. I think I can line it up if I could get the other side bolted in and lift up the passenger side but it just isnt happening for me.

I guess I need some input on order of operations or tricks to get this stuff in properly.

 

i always bolt the headers on with the engine still on the picker but in the car and i leave the engine mounts bolted to block and car but take the cross bolt out. now the steering linkage you have to slide the top on first(firewall side) then the bottom. it really sucks doing headers without a helping hand there hopefully you got a buddy over or your girlfriend

 

So I should remove both the motor mount long bolts and get the headers completely connected first?

Do you leave the block side and frame side lose or completely tight?

 

Get the headers bolted up, then mess with the mounts. The mounts are a pain to line up and the last thing you want to do is have to unbolt them again to work on the headers.

On the drivers side I had to completely loosen all the bolts, jack the engine up and down, and fight with both sides of the mount to get the thru bolt in.

The first time I put the passenger side in as a whole unit with the thru bolt already in. I later had to pull the thru bolt out to get the header in. To line it back up I loosened the engine side bolts and fought to line it up. Don't loosen the frame side bolts on the passenger side, they hold compression on the poly mount. It won't help you to loosen them.

I also reversed the passenger thru bolt so I could get it in and out without removing the accessories,

 

yes sir that is what i do. while

 

Well another Saturday and more progress! I got the headers on and the motor bolted onto the mounts. I started in with some of the accessories and sensors. I have a few random questions I need help with!

1.) On the knock sensor, it is very difficult to turn and I am afraid I will damage the unit if I put anymore pressure on the wrench. Does it need to be flush with the block or just near it to function correctly? I have it about half way in, but there is about 2-3 threads still showing.

2.) Anyone know the measurement the lefternmost waterpump bolt (tiny one). I seemed to have misplaced it in the tear down.

3.) The steering linkage. I removed it to assist in the header install and now I cant get it back on. Is there some trick to this? It seems to line up crooked and I am not sure why. It is clear from the header so I dont know

4.) and 5.)





Anyone know the correct location for this sensor and wire guide? I figure it is somewhere near the oil filter, but I can't remember.

Finally, it looks like I ruined my oil cooler line is the swap. Should I replace the part (anyone got a part number)? Fab up a custom one, JB weld this?

Thanks you all for the continued support!

 

For the steering shaft, I had to pull the column out, start it on the shaft, then put the column back in. It was a BITCH. I pulled the motor from the bottom, but same problem (should have reconnected it going up with the k-member, but forgot). Sorry, but my cars a LS1, so I can't help with the other questions...

 

that "sensor " goes on the drivers side on the back of the intake. its part of the EGR crap. from the looks of your headers you wont need that.

 

Garbage post, GM lied to me.

 

Here's a diagram, looking for the part #

http://shbox.com/1/oil_cooler.jpg

 

Those are definitely your oil cooler lines, and that clip goes on the slave cylinder bolts to hold the clutch line away from the exhaust.

 

if you mean you can't get it back on because it is just barely not fitting one or the other side..then...

What I do is I get it on the steering column first. Then I use a long prybar and hammer and hit it softly so it goes up the steering column. At that point I have enough clearance to put it on the rack and it will then slide easily. It just needs a little more clearance.

 

Awesome, got the steering system back on.

Is it okay if the column male in is deeper into the female end on the knuckle (lol Office joke) than it was originally? I remember being there being a few inches of space where you could see through the column. I had to adjust mine up the shaft to get it to line up correctly with the rack and pinion.

 

can you say beautifu??

 

Fired her up today for the first time! Sounds great with open headers but I am looking forward to hearing it once the Y pipe is installed and it feeds through the Borla catback.

Items of concern:
1.) Car won't go into gear while running. I started a thread in tranny section, working on that.
2.) Looks like I might have a leak somewhere. Could be just spills from coolant filling and trying to bleed hydraulics. I'll look into this later.
3.) Check gauges light is on, I am guessing oil pressure might be high. What is normal? Mine looks to be reading 70+.

 

You won't throw an SES for oil pressure, that gauge is directly connected to the sender.