lt1 torque converter question
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...dead-pics.html
Way back a friend of mine and myself both had LT1 cars, stock heads and cam, long tubes, bolt ons. He had a no name 2400 converter and I had a Vig3200 (flashed 3800). His felt miles faster around town when I rode around in his car. That was because my converter passed the entire torque curve of the stock motor.
IMO, if he is going to do a cam in the future like his sig says, I'd wait until he does a cam to do the converter and have the two paired together for the best combo possible.
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Way back a friend of mine and myself both had LT1 cars, stock heads and cam, long tubes, bolt ons. He had a no name 2400 converter and I had a Vig3200 (flashed 3800). His felt miles faster around town when I rode around in his car. That was because my converter passed the entire torque curve of the stock motor.
IMO, if he is going to do a cam in the future like his sig says, I'd wait until he does a cam to do the converter and have the two paired together for the best combo possible.
IMO a 2800-3000 minimum if you want a stall now but best to just wait and match it to whatever cam you plan on running.
Just some first hand experience, maybe they are good, or maybe we got lucky? Who can say? We were running a B&M trans. cooler on both cars though.
I wouldn't even waste my time or money with a 2300-2500 stall. Not worth it at all. Go atleast 3000rpm. Stock it will work good and even with a cam you will still have good driveability and it will still be high enough.
Personally I'd go with a 2,800-3,200 from a good name brand (Yank, Circle D, PB...) as many have recommended, or just wait till you get a cam, but its your car not mine







