FOr you guys who want your Opti's to LIVE...do this.
#1
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When you Loctite the rotor screws, use ONLY Green Loctite. Its called "stud and bearing mount". Dont use red, dont use blue...use GREEN.
Had a buddy with a MSD Opti loctite his with red and the screws still came out.
I have been using green and have yet to have one come out.
Had a buddy with a MSD Opti loctite his with red and the screws still came out.
I have been using green and have yet to have one come out.
#3
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Which formula, 290 or 294? 294 is also heat rated to 450* so that'd be my choice. I see that a lot of the red compunds are listed as applicable to fasteners larger than 1/4"
Although the red stick might be just as good "this high strength threadlocker is better suited for heavy-duty applications where resistance to heavy shock, vibration, and stress levels is required. Localized heating and hand tools are required to separate parts."
Although the red stick might be just as good "this high strength threadlocker is better suited for heavy-duty applications where resistance to heavy shock, vibration, and stress levels is required. Localized heating and hand tools are required to separate parts."
#4
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USE GREEN, nothing other than green. I dont know what formula it is I know it as "Stud and Bearing mount". I think any green will work as long as its Loctite brand.
I am telling you guys what has worked for me. I have 9000 HARD miles on my car without one opti problem.
I have a GM opti, only mod is the rotor screws Loctite'd with Green Loctite.
I am telling you guys what has worked for me. I have 9000 HARD miles on my car without one opti problem.
I have a GM opti, only mod is the rotor screws Loctite'd with Green Loctite.
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Damn, everyone keeps talking about using loc-tite on the rotor screws.. I didn't use ANYTHING when I put this opti in 3 years ago, and my heap is holding up. In hindsight, it would have been a great idea to do for some peace of mind. Definitely doing this next time around..
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#9
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permatex brand is good for rtv silicon
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What you state sounds just like what a service writer would spew. It's ignorant horse ****. Red loc-tite works just fine. You make it read like if you don't use "GREEN" you are doomed. Hooey.
Fantastic. I have two optis. The original where the screws backed out, red loc-tite was used and it held just fine for another 70,000 miles before I removed it. Still works and is a spare. The one I have now on the engine has no loc-tite. I WONDER if it is GOING to LIVE?
Absofreakinglutely.
Fantastic. I have two optis. The original where the screws backed out, red loc-tite was used and it held just fine for another 70,000 miles before I removed it. Still works and is a spare. The one I have now on the engine has no loc-tite. I WONDER if it is GOING to LIVE?
Absofreakinglutely.
Last edited by SS RRR; 07-06-2010 at 05:34 PM.
#16
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I thought loctite in general is supposed to be used on metal to metal stuff but if you say its doing the job on plastics, more power to'em. The green type is actually the "wicking" type intended for being applied to nuts and bolts that are already tight. As in, you drip it on the threads and it will find its way in there and then harden up. If you dont have a hardware place around town with the green.. just google it and buy a bottle or two online.
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For you guys that have loctited the screws, but need to take them out for some reason; heat the screws with a soldering gun (240w version) before you try to get them out and you'll save the screw heads. You'll melt plastic, though, so be prepared.