Rescued a wounded Bird
01-03-2011, 09:51 PM
#41
Yesterday, deleted the oil coler on the new engine. Got the oil pan off, rotating assembly looks incredibly clean. Pin for the oil pump pressure relief spring is still neatly in place, going to grab a white high pressure spring (part # 3848911), weld the pickup tube and call that part done.
Going to my local Fastenal for a long 7/16-20 x 8" bolt for reinstalling the crank hub- using instructions found here:
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc..._assembled.JPG
Sourcing a new water pump, installing rear main, front cover seals, have 2 optis on hand, just need time on task. Before it was lots of time, no money; now it's lots of money, no time.
Have a torque tech X pipe, Pacesetter 2239s (Jet-Hots) and a pair of Flowtech Afterburners for install after the startup step is passed. Mail-order tune for the longtubes and EGR delete. Happy hooker on the way. Also got a heavy duty flexplate for $33.00 shipped. One in previous pic was from the old engine, new one came without.
Also thinking of painting the intake blue, call me crazy. I think it would look good in contrast to the red engine bay. More pics to come, no camera battery last trip to the shop.
Going to my local Fastenal for a long 7/16-20 x 8" bolt for reinstalling the crank hub- using instructions found here:
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm
http://members.***.net/gmarengo/Misc..._assembled.JPG
Sourcing a new water pump, installing rear main, front cover seals, have 2 optis on hand, just need time on task. Before it was lots of time, no money; now it's lots of money, no time.
Have a torque tech X pipe, Pacesetter 2239s (Jet-Hots) and a pair of Flowtech Afterburners for install after the startup step is passed. Mail-order tune for the longtubes and EGR delete. Happy hooker on the way. Also got a heavy duty flexplate for $33.00 shipped. One in previous pic was from the old engine, new one came without.
Also thinking of painting the intake blue, call me crazy. I think it would look good in contrast to the red engine bay. More pics to come, no camera battery last trip to the shop.
Last edited by Gojira94; 01-08-2011 at 09:47 PM.
01-04-2011, 09:16 PM
#42
Here's the intake, first coat done. Maybe I'll regret it later, But I like it now and intakes are cheap on FleaBay. It took me over an hour to prep it; stuffed all the holes with bits of rag, taped over the vitals. So no paint inside the business end of the injector bosses, bracket bolt holes, EGR ports, PCV grommet seat, vacuum line barbs, etc. etc.
How do you like the color? Here's the kicker: GM blue looked like puke and I wasn't about to go sparkle. I had to choose engine enamel, so I chose... "Old Ford Blue." Another coat tomorrow and then back on the engine with it. Oh, and yeah, I'll sand the top fins back aluminum and clear coat them, of course.
Edit: I have to say I hate cutting masking tape with scissors!
How do you like the color? Here's the kicker: GM blue looked like puke and I wasn't about to go sparkle. I had to choose engine enamel, so I chose... "Old Ford Blue." Another coat tomorrow and then back on the engine with it. Oh, and yeah, I'll sand the top fins back aluminum and clear coat them, of course.
Edit: I have to say I hate cutting masking tape with scissors!
01-06-2011, 10:47 PM
#43
More pics of the intake; sanded the fins, got a clear coat on it. Went ahead and mocked it up to see how it would look. I'm pretty pleased. Should get most of the assembly done this weekend- got the Happy Hooker today, have everything else I need to pull the trigger and get it in.
01-08-2011, 09:45 PM
#44
Got some work done today, about 3 hours' worth. Pulled the Crank hub, timing cover. Replaced the crank seal, opti spline shaft seal. Waiting to do the water pump drive seal since it was too cold to slip onto a socket without tearing. Front timing set is only $10.00, but why buy extras if you can just be patient? I hate scraping 15 year old gasket, so damned tedious... 400 grit after that on all the surfaces. Spooged a littlle on the timing cover at the top. It'll clean up after it's dried.
Retorqued the heads- they were spot-on for the most part. The pass. side head was removed before I got the engine, gasket and bolts on that side were replaced. Cleaned & torqued the oil filter adapter. Installed the intake and got good seal front and back, 35lb. /ft. in 2 steps, plain old Fel-Pro intake gaskets, thread sealer on the bolts.
Also grabbed the valve covers from the green car out of the attic and cleaned them up. Anybody want the Corvette ones? They're cast aluminum for an L98, no alternator notch. Dude sprayed them silver, didn't do a very good job. You'd want to strip 'em and paint em properly. And pry off the already ruined Corvette logo...
Still to do: Rear main seal, oil pan gasket, install opti, water pump/thermostat, put crank hub & balancer back on. Drop it in with the Happy Hooker and install the fuel rail, hook it up, fill it up and done. I'd like to restate that this build is being done without air tools or heat in the workspace. So it goes a little slower than it would in some places.
Here's 2 pics, again sorry for the poor quality, still using my phone camera.
Retorqued the heads- they were spot-on for the most part. The pass. side head was removed before I got the engine, gasket and bolts on that side were replaced. Cleaned & torqued the oil filter adapter. Installed the intake and got good seal front and back, 35lb. /ft. in 2 steps, plain old Fel-Pro intake gaskets, thread sealer on the bolts.
Also grabbed the valve covers from the green car out of the attic and cleaned them up. Anybody want the Corvette ones? They're cast aluminum for an L98, no alternator notch. Dude sprayed them silver, didn't do a very good job. You'd want to strip 'em and paint em properly. And pry off the already ruined Corvette logo...
Still to do: Rear main seal, oil pan gasket, install opti, water pump/thermostat, put crank hub & balancer back on. Drop it in with the Happy Hooker and install the fuel rail, hook it up, fill it up and done. I'd like to restate that this build is being done without air tools or heat in the workspace. So it goes a little slower than it would in some places.
Here's 2 pics, again sorry for the poor quality, still using my phone camera.
01-08-2011, 10:48 PM
#46
I'd take $20.00 for 'em, plus shipping. I'd think they weigh about 4-5 lbs. together, so UPS ground would be about $12.00-$17.00. Center bolt, of course, missing 2 of the bolts when I picked it up.
PM me with your shipping address and I'll get them out to you. You can hit me up on Paypal after you receive them.
They'd look good if they were stripped and finished worth a damn. I just don't have any use for them. You can get a good look at them in a previous post.
-Rob
PM me with your shipping address and I'll get them out to you. You can hit me up on Paypal after you receive them.
They'd look good if they were stripped and finished worth a damn. I just don't have any use for them. You can get a good look at them in a previous post.
-Rob
01-15-2011, 11:13 PM
#49
Got a lot done today:
Water pump shaft seal
Crank hub back on
Oil pan w/new gasket on
Water pump, neck/ thermostat, temp sender for the gauge
Opti
Opti vacuum harness
CCV breather tube
Coolant crossover (brass fittings substitution, thanks Joe for the tip on the thread sealer)
Purge solenoid & lines
ICM, coil/ wire
Plugs (TR55 @ .049")
Trying some Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm wires; 50Ω/ ft.
Poly mounts for engine, trans, tq arm are ready to go in
Crank hub install tool worked like a charm...
Got the old engine out (downed it to a shortblock with the crank snout but nothing else). Spun it sideways and pulled it with the radiator still in, will have to pull rad & condenser to drop the new one in. Seriously dirty engine bay. This whole build is about details. And details take time at almost every step of the way.
Left to do:
Clean engine bay
Rear main seal
Install new heavy duty flexplate
Drop it in w/ the Happy Hooker
Fuel rail
Moroso CAI, bought from LS1Tech member-thx bud
Headers (Jet Hot Pacesetter 2239s)
Reinstall trans, Driveshaft
Fab exhaust (3" to Torque Tech X-pipe that reduces to 2.5", Flowtech Afterburners)
Tune
Water pump shaft seal
Crank hub back on
Oil pan w/new gasket on
Water pump, neck/ thermostat, temp sender for the gauge
Opti
Opti vacuum harness
CCV breather tube
Coolant crossover (brass fittings substitution, thanks Joe for the tip on the thread sealer)
Purge solenoid & lines
ICM, coil/ wire
Plugs (TR55 @ .049")
Trying some Taylor Thundervolt 8.2mm wires; 50Ω/ ft.
Poly mounts for engine, trans, tq arm are ready to go in
Crank hub install tool worked like a charm...
Got the old engine out (downed it to a shortblock with the crank snout but nothing else). Spun it sideways and pulled it with the radiator still in, will have to pull rad & condenser to drop the new one in. Seriously dirty engine bay. This whole build is about details. And details take time at almost every step of the way.
Left to do:
Clean engine bay
Rear main seal
Install new heavy duty flexplate
Drop it in w/ the Happy Hooker
Fuel rail
Moroso CAI, bought from LS1Tech member-thx bud
Headers (Jet Hot Pacesetter 2239s)
Reinstall trans, Driveshaft
Fab exhaust (3" to Torque Tech X-pipe that reduces to 2.5", Flowtech Afterburners)
Tune
Last edited by Gojira94; 01-15-2011 at 11:38 PM.
01-16-2011, 08:01 PM
#53
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Go JirrRA!!!
i just bought a 96 LT1 motor with 1.6 rr's for 150 bucks as a parts mule and a forged 355 build...has 2 scattered rods...my prognosis is the #7 wrist pin seized (since its still fuzed together minus a piston and half a rod) and scattered taking out the #8 rod and the oil pan with its shrapnel
i just bought a 96 LT1 motor with 1.6 rr's for 150 bucks as a parts mule and a forged 355 build...has 2 scattered rods...my prognosis is the #7 wrist pin seized (since its still fuzed together minus a piston and half a rod) and scattered taking out the #8 rod and the oil pan with its shrapnel
01-17-2011, 10:18 PM
#54
Not exciting, but one last pic before it goes in. Got the rear main and flexplate done. Also scrubbed the rust off the back of the block and got a coat of gloss black engine enamel on it. Pressure washing the engine bay and K-member before it goes in next weekend.
Trying my hand at cleaning the injectors. Just a tiny bit of varnish in the top halves of them (can tell from the smell). What little I found in the rail cleaned easily with carb cleaner, almost no rubbing. Spraying them out, letting them drain & dry inverted, then repeat with the bottom half. Looking at making a 12V setup to energize them to get crud out of the main body if necessary, using a spare EV1 connector and some Radio Shack stuff. If it looks like light cleaning won't do it, I'll post up with the DIY injector energizer setup.
Trying my hand at cleaning the injectors. Just a tiny bit of varnish in the top halves of them (can tell from the smell). What little I found in the rail cleaned easily with carb cleaner, almost no rubbing. Spraying them out, letting them drain & dry inverted, then repeat with the bottom half. Looking at making a 12V setup to energize them to get crud out of the main body if necessary, using a spare EV1 connector and some Radio Shack stuff. If it looks like light cleaning won't do it, I'll post up with the DIY injector energizer setup.
02-05-2011, 10:56 PM
#55
Today was the day to get the engine in but didn't get started until late in the day due to busted dishwasher at the rental unit. There goes the cash for the trans cooler, radiator, couple of other things... All I had time to do was:
Pressure wash the engine bay
Get it on the Happy Hooker & slide it in
I came on an angle from the driver's front, had a strap from the crank hub over the top of the hoist to tilt it up. Eased it in and twisted it as the rear cleared the cowl. Sorry I didn't have time to install the headers, fuel rail, accessory bracket, etc. Condenser stayed in, moved the compressor and PS pump down out of the way.
Pressure wash the engine bay
Get it on the Happy Hooker & slide it in
I came on an angle from the driver's front, had a strap from the crank hub over the top of the hoist to tilt it up. Eased it in and twisted it as the rear cleared the cowl. Sorry I didn't have time to install the headers, fuel rail, accessory bracket, etc. Condenser stayed in, moved the compressor and PS pump down out of the way.
Last edited by Gojira94; 06-24-2011 at 03:24 PM.
02-18-2011, 12:16 AM
#56
Got the headers in (so easy with nothing in the way). Got the harness hooked back up. New radiator soon. Taking the GF to the mountains next weekend, time and money well spent, so the car can wait a couple more weeks. 
Injector rail back on, headers have really good clearance with the engine sitting on new poly. Going to give the trans a new pan (from a member who has an Ebay biz, thanks bud), a little going through. Then fluids and initial startup. Oil pan was a little tweaked, massaged it as well as I could, should be fine, won't cry if it weeps a little, I can fix it or replace it. Just 2 pics tonight, losing that clean engine bay look from the last ones with everything getting hooked back up:
Injector rail back on, headers have really good clearance with the engine sitting on new poly. Going to give the trans a new pan (from a member who has an Ebay biz, thanks bud), a little going through. Then fluids and initial startup. Oil pan was a little tweaked, massaged it as well as I could, should be fine, won't cry if it weeps a little, I can fix it or replace it. Just 2 pics tonight, losing that clean engine bay look from the last ones with everything getting hooked back up:
02-18-2011, 06:55 PM
#59
you probably already mentioned...what headers are those? And how did you put the ignition coil back on. I deleted my AIR pump and dont want to put the bracket back on. i guess you just use the top 2 studs (on the end of the cyl head) and no bracket?
02-18-2011, 11:34 PM
#60