Rescued a wounded Bird
02-18-2011, 11:41 PM
#61
I just did the space it off the head mod shown at shbox.com, using the factory bracket for coil/ ICM. The coil is where it was from the factory, just spaced for easier heat dissipation. AIR pump bracket doesn't affect that. My AIR pump is now on a BMW Z3 that belongs to a co-worker. His BMW factory pump died and I gave him mine. 12V system is a 12V system.
Grounds on the inboard stud like factory... with the AIR pump and plumbing deleted, there is some room to play around with other options. Haven't thought much yet about relocations for accessories, but there's room for something there now and plenty in the aftermarket to use the space.
02-22-2011, 09:53 AM
#62
Radiator is in, all coolant plumbing is finished, starting to run out of parts to put back on. 
All front accessories are on, Plug wires are run, tied. Had to quit early last night and drive back to Raleigh to unlock a locked out tenant. 
So, I still have to do O2s & O2 extensions, starter. Engine bay is done. Need to swap out the trans pan & go over it before reinstalling it. Other than these last few things, it's about time to see how it runs. I expect a small leak or two, maybe a dead fuel pump, 2 bad headlight motors, 1 slow window...
All front accessories are on, Plug wires are run, tied. Had to quit early last night and drive back to Raleigh to unlock a locked out tenant. So, I still have to do O2s & O2 extensions, starter. Engine bay is done. Need to swap out the trans pan & go over it before reinstalling it. Other than these last few things, it's about time to see how it runs. I expect a small leak or two, maybe a dead fuel pump, 2 bad headlight motors, 1 slow window...
03-01-2011, 10:12 AM
#65
All that's left is to put the trans and driveshaft in and fire it up. I spent over an hour cleaning the workspace again last night. My buddy's garage, best friend a guy could have, but what a slob (by his own admission). I keep having short days or no days to work on it and it's making me crazy.
Got to get it back up a little higher so I can roll the trans under... here's a couple of pics of the engine bay, at least- wish I'd cleaned the alt and bracket a little better:
Looking at the 3rd pic, I forgot to cap the AIR fitting on the CAI.
I keep having short days or no days to work on it and it's making me crazy.Got to get it back up a little higher so I can roll the trans under... here's a couple of pics of the engine bay, at least- wish I'd cleaned the alt and bracket a little better:
Looking at the 3rd pic, I forgot to cap the AIR fitting on the CAI.
03-01-2011, 11:02 AM
#66
TECH Fanatic
Great project! can't wait to see this done. ya know at first I didn't think that intake would look good blue but it actually looks real good in there! keep up the good work!
03-03-2011, 08:59 AM
#67
Again, ran out of time before I wanted to quit last night. Slow going sometimes with no lift, no power tools, no air, only two hands...
Got the transmission in. Had to build the stack o' blocks to get clearance to roll the trans under again- see post 22 for pic. I just left it on the cargo dolly and then ran a floor jack under from the front. I lifted the bell housing and dolly together and got the jack foot under the pan on a piece of 1x6. Works almost as good as a trans jack. You're stuck with the dolly there until it gets bolted up but it's not bad. Even gives you a place to rest your head...
Lifted it carefully and got it lined up. Worst bolt was middle driver's side getting room close to the tunnel. A mix of wobble and straight extensions make it a lot better... Torque converter bolts lined up very nicely on the new HD flexplate. Trans dipstick pipe was not nearly as bad as the oil dipstick was.
Almost there- the rest is easy; driveshaft, crossmember & mount, tighten the engine mount bolts and it's a whole car again.
Got the transmission in. Had to build the stack o' blocks to get clearance to roll the trans under again- see post 22 for pic. I just left it on the cargo dolly and then ran a floor jack under from the front. I lifted the bell housing and dolly together and got the jack foot under the pan on a piece of 1x6. Works almost as good as a trans jack. You're stuck with the dolly there until it gets bolted up but it's not bad. Even gives you a place to rest your head...
Lifted it carefully and got it lined up. Worst bolt was middle driver's side getting room close to the tunnel. A mix of wobble and straight extensions make it a lot better... Torque converter bolts lined up very nicely on the new HD flexplate. Trans dipstick pipe was not nearly as bad as the oil dipstick was.
Almost there- the rest is easy; driveshaft, crossmember & mount, tighten the engine mount bolts and it's a whole car again.
Last edited by Gojira94; 03-03-2011 at 01:19 PM.
03-06-2011, 10:48 PM
#68
Edit- first, apologies for the shitty video- cameraphone strikes again...
First startup- almost forgot to change the fuel filter. Put 5 gallons of good gas in it, primed the oiling system. Reconnected fuel relay and coil, started right up. It idled at 900RPM and came down to 650-700 as it warmed up. Hesitant to take throttle at first- still had some stale fuel in the lines. Walked it up to 3200 after it was warmed up, seems ok so far. No noises in the bottom end or valvetrain, no leaks anywhere.
A little pissed that the driver's side header doesn't have a prayer of clearing the unibody brace for the the brake and fuel lines. Almost 1/2" to figure out, not enough room to insert a reducer- distance too short. Any ideas from you Pacesetter owners that have had this issue?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crXo40MO1kQ
First startup- almost forgot to change the fuel filter. Put 5 gallons of good gas in it, primed the oiling system. Reconnected fuel relay and coil, started right up. It idled at 900RPM and came down to 650-700 as it warmed up. Hesitant to take throttle at first- still had some stale fuel in the lines. Walked it up to 3200 after it was warmed up, seems ok so far. No noises in the bottom end or valvetrain, no leaks anywhere.
A little pissed that the driver's side header doesn't have a prayer of clearing the unibody brace for the the brake and fuel lines. Almost 1/2" to figure out, not enough room to insert a reducer- distance too short. Any ideas from you Pacesetter owners that have had this issue?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crXo40MO1kQ
03-07-2011, 12:39 PM
#69
Launching!
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im dealing with the same problem clearing the unibody brace. I might notch and weld it so i get the clearance i need. Unless someone has a better solution. currently i have cherry bombs hanging at a diagonal off my headers with literally 1 inch of clearance at the back 
.
.
03-09-2011, 04:18 PM
#72
I picked up a new angle grinder yesterday...
Going to make some measurements tonight, if I can get over there. Also will be working on the Tail lights' wiring (almost completely eaten from water infiltration). Oh, and put the nose back on...
Going to make some measurements tonight, if I can get over there. Also will be working on the Tail lights' wiring (almost completely eaten from water infiltration). Oh, and put the nose back on...
03-14-2011, 11:37 PM
#73
Getting it back together, sending PCM off to pcmforless, 2 tires tomorrow so I can roll it easier (left rear still flat/leaking). Now finding some little issues to fix...
Master door switch:
driver's window doesn't work (pass. side is SLOW)
Pass. side mirror doesn't work
strange sound from eng. compartment when adjusting driver's mirror in, up (got to have my buddy Allen operate the switch while I listen to find it)
Confirmed GU2 2.73s are still in it (PO said he thought 3.73, I thought not...)
Stereo works great...
Grids from the green car look f'in awesome...
Master door switch:
driver's window doesn't work (pass. side is SLOW)
Pass. side mirror doesn't work
strange sound from eng. compartment when adjusting driver's mirror in, up (got to have my buddy Allen operate the switch while I listen to find it)
Confirmed GU2 2.73s are still in it (PO said he thought 3.73, I thought not...)
Stereo works great...
Grids from the green car look f'in awesome...
03-23-2011, 11:13 PM
#74
Got the PCM back yesterday, put it back in, sounded much better. No SES light, so far, so good. The tune is going to be fine- money well spent.
From here, there's a few problems left over to troubleshoot. I got it warmed up, idle gets down to about 450-500 on the tach. Maybe not exact, but definitely well below 750-800. It has a hard time taking throttle. I can gradually roll into it with no load (not in gear). I tried an idle reset, but it didn't really change anything. Poor tip-in as well. I did a couple slow revs to 4500 or so, and it tried to die out when I let off.
I tried a quick trip about 1/2 mi and back. Really hard for it to get going. Shifted into 2nd, but with 2.73s, I didn't have room to try to get it to 3rd. Top speed was about 42MPH. When I turned around, it tried to die out and wouldn't take throttle. Had a hard time getting it to move, finally popped an SES light. I'm guessing that'll be multiple misfire, and maybe TPS.
Next steps:
pull code(s)
Check fuel pressure @ KOEO, idle, part throttle
Readjust rockers
Adjust TPS if good
ALDL cable on the way for logging
Anything I'm missing? Does a 94 PCM store transmission codes, btw? Never had an A4 car before, 4L60E is a new animal to me. Suggestions welcomed...
Here's a pic of the X pipe, in progress fabbing the exhaust:
From here, there's a few problems left over to troubleshoot. I got it warmed up, idle gets down to about 450-500 on the tach. Maybe not exact, but definitely well below 750-800. It has a hard time taking throttle. I can gradually roll into it with no load (not in gear). I tried an idle reset, but it didn't really change anything. Poor tip-in as well. I did a couple slow revs to 4500 or so, and it tried to die out when I let off.
I tried a quick trip about 1/2 mi and back. Really hard for it to get going. Shifted into 2nd, but with 2.73s, I didn't have room to try to get it to 3rd. Top speed was about 42MPH. When I turned around, it tried to die out and wouldn't take throttle. Had a hard time getting it to move, finally popped an SES light. I'm guessing that'll be multiple misfire, and maybe TPS.
Next steps:
pull code(s)
Check fuel pressure @ KOEO, idle, part throttle
Readjust rockers
Adjust TPS if good
ALDL cable on the way for logging
Anything I'm missing? Does a 94 PCM store transmission codes, btw? Never had an A4 car before, 4L60E is a new animal to me. Suggestions welcomed...
Here's a pic of the X pipe, in progress fabbing the exhaust:
Last edited by Gojira94; 03-23-2011 at 11:26 PM.
03-27-2011, 02:02 AM
#76
So tonight the blood god demanded sacrifice...
I hooked up an old but trusted Snap-On red brick and found I have 2 codes. Right side O2 is at 450mV constant, even at WOT. And code 84- 2-3 shift solenoid. Before I started the car, the scanner said I was in 3rd gear.
So I also tested the IAC and again set the idle per instructions from shbox.com. Idle is up at around 850-900 cold, open loop. I shut it down before it went to closed loop. Nothing to be gained until I can throw another O2 in it and swap out a shift solenoid (wiring is solid, no problems there).
Moved on to exhaust. I don't like cutting, but felt I had no other easy choice for doing true duals with X pipe. I got good Walker band clamps from Summit- 2x butt joint for the collectors/ front legs, 2 lap joint for legs to X, some more butt joint for the rear legs & mufflers. I made 2 cuts front- back across the left side brace, made 2 side-side cuts. Then I used a floor jack and a block of wood to crush the 2 lips of metal up against the rest of the brace, nice and flat. I also used the same method to flatten the profiles of the hard lines for brake & fuel a tiny bit for better clearance, so they'd sit a little higher, flatter. To get room to work with the angle grinder, I removed the screws holding the lines in place- one at the brace, 2 along the tunnel.
where the X sits, I was able to use U clamps and rubber straps on the rear tubes of the X pipe. I bolted the straps into the old shaft brace (common place for middle attachment point for subframe connectors). I was adjusting the right side collector clamp and the 3" leg slipped out and dropped onto the ridge of my right eye. I grabbed my eyebrow and it was gushing. Crap. So I went into the house (my buddy and his wife are in Richmond). Looked at it, stopped the bleeding and determined it was going to need a couple of small stitches.
So I went back out, finished hanging the X pipe, fired it up and checked for leaks. Shut it down, cleaned up the tools, locked up the house, drove back to Raleigh. Doc in a box wasn't open, so I figured I go let the real doc have a look. I went with the glue on this one. And they insisted on a tetanus shot. Stopped at the Denny's across the street and had some pancakes and called it a day.
Sorry I didn't get a pic with the X pipe bolted up- looks sweet. But I did take a few pics of the cuts I made to clear the brace:
And a video of the IAC test... for ***** and giggles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TBToOmcU78
I hooked up an old but trusted Snap-On red brick and found I have 2 codes. Right side O2 is at 450mV constant, even at WOT. And code 84- 2-3 shift solenoid. Before I started the car, the scanner said I was in 3rd gear.
So I also tested the IAC and again set the idle per instructions from shbox.com. Idle is up at around 850-900 cold, open loop. I shut it down before it went to closed loop. Nothing to be gained until I can throw another O2 in it and swap out a shift solenoid (wiring is solid, no problems there).
Moved on to exhaust. I don't like cutting, but felt I had no other easy choice for doing true duals with X pipe. I got good Walker band clamps from Summit- 2x butt joint for the collectors/ front legs, 2 lap joint for legs to X, some more butt joint for the rear legs & mufflers. I made 2 cuts front- back across the left side brace, made 2 side-side cuts. Then I used a floor jack and a block of wood to crush the 2 lips of metal up against the rest of the brace, nice and flat. I also used the same method to flatten the profiles of the hard lines for brake & fuel a tiny bit for better clearance, so they'd sit a little higher, flatter. To get room to work with the angle grinder, I removed the screws holding the lines in place- one at the brace, 2 along the tunnel.
where the X sits, I was able to use U clamps and rubber straps on the rear tubes of the X pipe. I bolted the straps into the old shaft brace (common place for middle attachment point for subframe connectors). I was adjusting the right side collector clamp and the 3" leg slipped out and dropped onto the ridge of my right eye. I grabbed my eyebrow and it was gushing. Crap. So I went into the house (my buddy and his wife are in Richmond). Looked at it, stopped the bleeding and determined it was going to need a couple of small stitches.
So I went back out, finished hanging the X pipe, fired it up and checked for leaks. Shut it down, cleaned up the tools, locked up the house, drove back to Raleigh. Doc in a box wasn't open, so I figured I go let the real doc have a look. I went with the glue on this one. And they insisted on a tetanus shot. Stopped at the Denny's across the street and had some pancakes and called it a day.
Sorry I didn't get a pic with the X pipe bolted up- looks sweet. But I did take a few pics of the cuts I made to clear the brace:
And a video of the IAC test... for ***** and giggles.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TBToOmcU78
03-27-2011, 09:38 PM
#77
BLMs are 133 left, 160 right. Left O2 is in the 400s while right O2 is in the 200s, at idle, closed loop. Think I went too light on the turns adjusting the rockers on the right side during assembly. That head was pulled before I got it to repair a nick where the valve cover seals (42k mile engine from a wrecked TA). Yesterday I cleared the code 63 (no voltage read from right O2) and put in a spare used Delco. Didn't feel like doing much to it today. Took pics of the exhaust work done so far:
03-29-2011, 09:48 PM
#78
Readjusted the right side valves, very mild improvement. IAC counts still wanted to be 93-104, so reset it again. Down to 43 and holding more or less. BLMs still split, not quite as high on the right bank. Went ahead and swapped the O2s and their extensions left > right and the BLMs swapped, so that's good to know. Testing the resistance on the extensions when I get back to the house- didn't bring my old Fluke 87 this trip.
Adjusted the TPS from .6 to .68 @ 0% throttle. Idle is good, around 850. Sounds like I need an O2 (may swap as a pair to be safe) and possibly an IAC. Seems to want to go to 100+ after it's been sitting a day or two. We'll see...
New code- 41.
Adjusted the TPS from .6 to .68 @ 0% throttle. Idle is good, around 850. Sounds like I need an O2 (may swap as a pair to be safe) and possibly an IAC. Seems to want to go to 100+ after it's been sitting a day or two. We'll see...
New code- 41.
04-06-2011, 09:22 AM
#79
EDIT: Don't get these O2s- not for our cars. O'Reilly's has them listed for our cars, but they ain't for LT1s. Right shape, wrong mV range- see post #81.
Very late start last night, couldn't fire it up since it was after 9:30 (nice old lady lives next to my bud Allen's house).
I replaced the 3-2 shift solenoid, new O2s. Extensions don't have any issues, didn't expect any but checked them just in case. Put on the nice chromed aluminum trans pan I bought from a forum member thru his Ebay biz.
Going back tonight, hopefully for a nice shakedown cruise... IAC still bugs me, I guess I'll make a determination on whether to replace it or not tonight. Trying a pair of Delphi O2s, $46.00 each at O'Reilly.
Very late start last night, couldn't fire it up since it was after 9:30 (nice old lady lives next to my bud Allen's house).
I replaced the 3-2 shift solenoid, new O2s. Extensions don't have any issues, didn't expect any but checked them just in case. Put on the nice chromed aluminum trans pan I bought from a forum member thru his Ebay biz.
Going back tonight, hopefully for a nice shakedown cruise... IAC still bugs me, I guess I'll make a determination on whether to replace it or not tonight. Trying a pair of Delphi O2s, $46.00 each at O'Reilly.
Last edited by Gojira94; 04-06-2011 at 11:35 PM.
