Hell, I wanna see it when she's on the road again. I'll try and roll into a Triad F-Body meet-up this spring with it.

Disappointment tonight...

The O2s aren't for this car. They only read 4mV at KOEO instead of 450. So, if anybody saw a new option from my last post and went to buy a pair at O'Reilly's, my apologies. However, they list them for the application. So spend the money and get a pair of AFS-65 or AFS-75, like I'm about to do. Right after I get my money back on the other ones.

The trans code stayed gone last night with several cyles of KOEO, so I thought I was good to go there. Tonight it popped back up before I could even start the car (watched it pop hooking up the scanner, cleared it 2x, came back both times). So... Either it's the h-shaped wiring harness inside that feeds the solenoids or the external harness connector, which seemed to be in great shape during assembly, or somewhere else in the harness. Wiring diagrams here I come. Heading over to the gurus on the auto trans section for advice on that rather than learn the 4L60E's whims and ways by trial and error.

I hooked the old O2s back up and ran them for a few minutes to see if the IAC was behaving. At first, it ran great, very crisp throttle. After a few minutes the weak/slow O2 started crapping out and the IAC counts went way up about the same time, then shut it down. I grabbed a quick idle video watching the scanner before it went south.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAvewd2AZHE

 

Had been having trouble with getting a good pair of O2s at the same time; still an issue but only a matter of securing a good pair. One of the AFS75s I bought is weak, may need to return it for another one. Got another old used AFS65 to test with since the one I had working well (out of 4). See my other thread "O2 Insanity"

Found 2 rocker studs just starting to back out on #1, caught it before it made noise and before it caused damage. So I pulled all the rockers and studs and put loc-tite on them and retorqued. Runs 90% better, still a very slight stumble on tip-in, but confident a fresh pair of good O2s will help the transition from CEL 16 to 17-18. IAC counts are between 24-34 now. Ordering clamps (need lap joint instead of butt joint for the rear legs of the X pipe to the mufflers, ordered butt joint due to my faulty memory). Next item will be finding the wiring fault in the trans/harness for the 3-2 downshift and then it'll be on the road. Can't wait...

 

And a clip- still have crappy sound on the new camera phone- sound cracks, not the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXH6kAY9Lyg

 

Nice work.... your intake looks close to mine. I had it powdercoated tho

 

Now that is the real deal... I'm definitely becoming a fan of powder coating LT1 intakes. The intake on my green car is starting to get the white crust in places. Might have to pull it and powder coat it before year's end. Thanks for sharing. Nice to know we've got a lot of LT1 owners in the Queen City (my hometown). It's actually pretty rare to see them here in Raleigh. LS1s all over the place, but damn few LTx cars these days.

 

Well, with air/fuel issues solved the next 2 things to focus on are the transmission (persistent code 84; 3-2 downshift solenoid feedback circuit) and finishing hanging the exhaust. I got the rear legs of the X secured and took measurements to allow the rear hangers to use the muffler outlets like most dumped duals I've seen. Need to shorten the legs about 3 1/2" and that's that. Sounds good. From what I hear, Flowtech mufflers tend to 'break in' after a bit and tone improves after a couple weeks of driving.

The transmission code is being a pain. I originally just replaced the solenoid while I was there, replacing the pan. I didn't give it another thought having read a lot of threads where shift solenoids go out. Code came back, kicked myself for throwing a part at it.

I unplugged the case connector and threaded it back up to the top, disconnected the battery, PCM black connector. I checked the harness where it used to go behind the EGR pipe and though the corrugated sheath was a bit melted in one spot, there wasn't any damage to the wires. I wrapped it back up and put heat tape around it while it was out in the open.

Next I checked continuity for the ground and power between the case connector and the corresponding pins on the PCM's black connector. B13 to pin S on the case connector, B29 to pin E to find a voltage supply. Both had continuity, so the harness has no breaks between the trans and the PCM for the 3-2 circuit. So that points to either the harness inside the trans or problem with the PCM. I have a spare PCM I can send to Bryan at PCMFORLESS but I can't see a bad PCM being the problem. Harness inside the trans is available at O'Reilly for $55.00...

 

Update:

I have a 95+ trans in a 94 car. I assumed the PO had replaced it with another non-PWM 94 trans. Apparently he didn't know what to look for or got sold a bill of goods ("It'll work fine..."). Code 84 wouldn't light the SES so an unscrupulous seller would have let him roll with it, knowing he'd be unaware aside from poor mileage...

I'd do the PWM stake mod on it but the piston in the bore next to the PWM solenoid/bore isn't one you can do it with. So I'm gathering info and doing research to see what my options are at this point. Hatin' it because I detest transmission work. Now I'm thinking I'll be learning to do a beefed up 4L60 rebuild. I just hate the fact that I'm going to spend money on the trans one way or another. That's not something I wanted to do yet. Just want to get this damned thing on the road!

 

Hate to hear you're having so much trouble with it. It's cool to read all your troubleshooting to get to where you are. Everything is coming together great. I haven't done a thing with those valve covers yet. I recently bought a cosmetically ragged 94 Z28 A4 for the engine. I am kinda waiting to pull anything until I sell the 4L60E. I know it'll be alot easier if they can drive the car. The only problem is now it's skipping pretty bad (pretty sure it's the opti...PO installed a new water pump and upper radiator hose and said it didn't skip before that.) It will still crank and run...so hopefully it'll dry out some.

 

Nice man! I can relate to rescuing an LT1. I am glad to see that this Formula found new life! She sounds good too! I will be checking this thread as you make progress. Great job and keep it up

 

What's up Jason? Cool to hear you got something new/old to work on. I don't know what I'll do when this thing is finished. But that'll be a long time. Definitely post some pics of your Z project and those valve covers when you get them cleaned up.

 

Oh man, your rebuild looked a lot more fun! Very nice work all around on the SS. My budget has gone a lot tighter recently now that the GF and I are looking for a house and I'm trying to sell mine. I'll have the cash left over to get the heads/cam gears/ stall I'm wanting when that happens and I'll have a place to work on it at my own house instead of 22 miles away.

 

So the exhaust is (almost) finished. It's a little low on the clearance but I have room to bring it up about an inch. I found the best heat shield/insulating material- it's called Inswool ceramic fiber. You can get it as thin as 1". My buddy's forge gave me the idea. Borrowing a bit of the stuff to wedge between the pipe and fuel/brake lines, mufflers and fuel/brake lines. 2200 degrees on one side, 130 on the other. Wow.

Here's a couple of pics of the rear half of the exhaust. I removed the back seats, lifted up the carpet through the hole under the seat for the loop/seat bolt and then drilled a 5/16" hole from the outside. I ran a bolt from the inside, had a helper hold a nut on the outside to secure it as a mounting post for the hangers. One more nut and some blue loctite keeps the nut in place. I bent the hanger between the 3rd & 4th holes about 30-35 degrees to get the angle right. I'll need to reshape the turndowns so they don't hang as low. But it's driveable...

 

Last night I just left the PWM solenoid disconnected, filled it and drove it. It shifts fine. I left my scanner at the house (the one time I take it out of the DD I forget to put it back in), so I can't see if the code 84 is still there. However, given that it shifts normally, I'd say it's no longer stuck in 3rd gear soft landing mode.

I think my biggest problem is the total loss of TC lockup with no way to put it back...

With a 2.73 rear gear, a stall 200 over stock and no TC lockup, it's a dog. But it drives and cruises for the moment. 3 drain and fills I did while working on it only showed a little friction material in the fluid. I'm hedging my bets just in case and shopping a dirt cheap early 4L60E in need of a rebuild and do it myself with a beefed up sunshell, etc. etc. etc. and/or find a decent used one from a 94 F body. Tall order...

 

Thanks man, I have been lucky to say the least. The SS just hit a 100k and my fuel pump is going out, but I have a Racetronix Kit on the way. Everything else still seems to be running fine (knocking on wood). My girl and I are in the same boat as you guys though. I told her that a back yard for the dogs and a two car garage are my only stipulations lol. A garage will be a big relief for you! I would hate to make a 44 mile round trip everytime I wanted to work on my car lol.

Good luck tucking up the turndowns on the exhaust buddy

 

Wow! Looks like a great project! I've rescued several f-cars over the years (including my current ride) and I don't know how I got through some of the projects before craigslist and ebay. Thanks for keeping one more f-body alive and keep up the great work!

~ Timothy

 

Thank you, sir... SA is a nice town. I was there back in '84 during a long field trip to Beeville (old Navy flight school/ Naval air station). I was Navy JROTC at the time. I learned what real heat was in TX...

 

I thought it was hot here until I spent most of a year in the Middle East. Texas is downright comfortable to me now.

BTW, really like the username.

~ Timothy

 

Hello I am new to the site just wanted to say nice job on the project. I picked up a 93 Z 6M with 227100 mile on it for $300. 1 owner car. drove it home before the fuel pump went out. got it replaced and drove for a week and now in the garage on jack stands fixing all the oil coolant leaks.( all gaskets and seals) looking at you post it gives me hope that one day i will drive it again lol

 

^ ^ Sounds like a great deal you found there. ^ ^

 

thank i think it was a good deal as long as i do all the work on it that is lol the motor is very clean inside runs strong was not beat on at all still has the factory cluch in it. its at the top but does not slip, but replacing anyway