Be Cool Radiator
#1
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Be Cool Radiator
Are any modified LT1 guys running this radiator? My motor doesnt run abnormally hot or anything. I just figured dropping the operating temp wouldnt be a bad idea. Any input would be appreciated.
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go to know wondering the same thing. i was gonna try out and LS style radiator so i dont have the coolant sensor. because i belive my radiator is sucking air back into the cooling system and causing the coolant to turn into steam. stoping the flow of coolant and overheating.
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go to know wondering the same thing. i was gonna try out and LS style radiator so i dont have the coolant sensor. because i belive my radiator is sucking air back into the cooling system and causing the coolant to turn into steam. stoping the flow of coolant and overheating.
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i thought that too but there is no coolant in the oil and it runs STRONG. i have keep up with a few LS camaros with just long tubes and gears. dont know if that means anything. but i heard some noises on cool down form my coolant sensor/peacock side of the radiator and after it cools down it normally overheats and the bleeder valve shoots out all steam when its low on coolant. but if i top it off it fine for awhile. the coolant seems to disapear and its not going into oil for sure. got new overflow tank cause that also had a small leak. its some how sucking air into the system and stoping flow of coolant. and i have a EWP which doesnt help anything.
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john, why dont you replace the cap with an OEM one and see if the problem persists. i had something close to your problem, only i kept blowing coolant out, when it got up to temp,no leaks or smoke... and had to constantly refill the overflow. 5 months now and no problems with just a radiator cap, a lot cheaper than a headgasket.
Last edited by lt1slowz28; 07-19-2010 at 01:13 PM.
#12
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i thought that too but there is no coolant in the oil and it runs STRONG. i have keep up with a few LS camaros with just long tubes and gears. dont know if that means anything. but i heard some noises on cool down form my coolant sensor/peacock side of the radiator and after it cools down it normally overheats and the bleeder valve shoots out all steam when its low on coolant. but if i top it off it fine for awhile. the coolant seems to disapear and its not going into oil for sure. got new overflow tank cause that also had a small leak. its some how sucking air into the system and stoping flow of coolant. and i have a EWP which doesnt help anything.
the same thing was happening to my car a while back. pulled the head off and sure enough there was a tear going strait from a cooling passage into the cylinder.
it sux but **** happens
#13
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Hey:
The only time I think you should buy an After market radiator for a bolt on or H/C/I car is when the stock one breaks or is damaged. My stock one cracked at near the filler neck for no aparent reason around 150,000 miles. I figured it was due to fatigue. I put a Be Cool in and I do admit its a bit heavier gauge alloy, nicely welded, and better looking, but did not cool any better, or lower temps at all. I also feel IMHO that it will last longer than the original, as it appears to be a much better made product.
I will have to wait a little while to prove that though. Hope this helps.
Dub
The only time I think you should buy an After market radiator for a bolt on or H/C/I car is when the stock one breaks or is damaged. My stock one cracked at near the filler neck for no aparent reason around 150,000 miles. I figured it was due to fatigue. I put a Be Cool in and I do admit its a bit heavier gauge alloy, nicely welded, and better looking, but did not cool any better, or lower temps at all. I also feel IMHO that it will last longer than the original, as it appears to be a much better made product.
I will have to wait a little while to prove that though. Hope this helps.
Dub
#18
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My builder's car is a 98, fwiw.
It could also be that perhaps your 98 just got an LT1 radiator. First year of the new engine etc :p