LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Be Cool Radiator

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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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Default Be Cool Radiator

Are any modified LT1 guys running this radiator? My motor doesnt run abnormally hot or anything. I just figured dropping the operating temp wouldnt be a bad idea. Any input would be appreciated.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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From what I've seen, a clean working stock radiator is all you will really ever need. I don't plan on getting rid of mine.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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go to know wondering the same thing. i was gonna try out and LS style radiator so i dont have the coolant sensor. because i belive my radiator is sucking air back into the cooling system and causing the coolant to turn into steam. stoping the flow of coolant and overheating.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by LT1John
go to know wondering the same thing. i was gonna try out and LS style radiator so i dont have the coolant sensor. because i belive my radiator is sucking air back into the cooling system and causing the coolant to turn into steam. stoping the flow of coolant and overheating.
Your problem sound like headgasket. funny how the ls guy alway want to run lt radiator. stick with clean lt radiator and never look back.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:33 PM
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I put a BeCool in mine when I had the 383" in it. Did not run one bit cooler. If you stock radiator is good, save your money.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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i thought that too but there is no coolant in the oil and it runs STRONG. i have keep up with a few LS camaros with just long tubes and gears. dont know if that means anything. but i heard some noises on cool down form my coolant sensor/peacock side of the radiator and after it cools down it normally overheats and the bleeder valve shoots out all steam when its low on coolant. but if i top it off it fine for awhile. the coolant seems to disapear and its not going into oil for sure. got new overflow tank cause that also had a small leak. its some how sucking air into the system and stoping flow of coolant. and i have a EWP which doesnt help anything.
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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The stocker will be just fine. If you want to drop the operating temps do the usual (160 tstat, adjust fans)
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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wut up chris. its not anything like that its air in the system that stops flow. figure maybe someone had this prob
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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I have one, as said it didn't make the car run any cooler. Just increased the coolant capacity and gives me some piece of mind that it's not gonna over heat from lack of radiator!
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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I've got one in mine. I agree with what has been said above, and would like to add -- they look good!
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Old Jul 18, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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john, why dont you replace the cap with an OEM one and see if the problem persists. i had something close to your problem, only i kept blowing coolant out, when it got up to temp,no leaks or smoke... and had to constantly refill the overflow. 5 months now and no problems with just a radiator cap, a lot cheaper than a headgasket.

Last edited by lt1slowz28; Jul 19, 2010 at 01:13 PM.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by LT1John
i thought that too but there is no coolant in the oil and it runs STRONG. i have keep up with a few LS camaros with just long tubes and gears. dont know if that means anything. but i heard some noises on cool down form my coolant sensor/peacock side of the radiator and after it cools down it normally overheats and the bleeder valve shoots out all steam when its low on coolant. but if i top it off it fine for awhile. the coolant seems to disapear and its not going into oil for sure. got new overflow tank cause that also had a small leak. its some how sucking air into the system and stoping flow of coolant. and i have a EWP which doesnt help anything.
ur not gonna want to hear this but 9 times outa 10 when someone says they dont know where the coolant is going, its a head gasket.

the same thing was happening to my car a while back. pulled the head off and sure enough there was a tear going strait from a cooling passage into the cylinder.

it sux but **** happens
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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Hey:

The only time I think you should buy an After market radiator for a bolt on or H/C/I car is when the stock one breaks or is damaged. My stock one cracked at near the filler neck for no aparent reason around 150,000 miles. I figured it was due to fatigue. I put a Be Cool in and I do admit its a bit heavier gauge alloy, nicely welded, and better looking, but did not cool any better, or lower temps at all. I also feel IMHO that it will last longer than the original, as it appears to be a much better made product.
I will have to wait a little while to prove that though. Hope this helps.

Dub
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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To tell you how good the stocker is...

My builder has an aggressive heads/hydraulic roller cam and a 200ish shot of nitrous in his LS1, and he wants to go to an LT1 radiator (basically the same as the LS1 radiator, but the LT1 version is thicker...)
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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pull the plugs and look for a clean one(s)... there's your leaky headgasket.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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I bought a 95Z last fall with a blown head gasket, no water in oil, but as stated above there was one clean plug and the exhaust smelled like antifreeze.
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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Hmmm, my 94 LT1 Formula radiator is exactly the same thickness as my 98 LS1 Formula radiator. In which years, were the LT1s thicker than the LS1s?
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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 94FBIRD
Hmmm, my 94 LT1 Formula radiator is exactly the same thickness as my 98 LS1 Formula radiator. In which years, were the LT1s thicker than the LS1s?
Have you had both cars since new? I believe they are directly interchangeable with no modification so perhaps someone who owned one of your cars ended up replacing the radiator with the "wrong" one and never even knew it.

My builder's car is a 98, fwiw.

It could also be that perhaps your 98 just got an LT1 radiator. First year of the new engine etc :p
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