I'll be blunt here...you have no idea what you're getting yourself into, and that's a fact. Do you know how much of a pain in the *** changing valve springs are, with the engine still in the car? Do you know how much money you're going to be wasting? Do you know how much your hands are going to hurt? Do you know how much TIME you're going to lose? Do you know what kind of DAMAGE you can cause by not using the correct springs?

The right springs are only 9 or 10 days away. You're complaining about me not being "nice", but DAMN dude, take a step back and listen to how moronic you are. You're gonna order some "cheap" springs, put them in over the course of 2 days (because that's how long it's going to take you), then do it all over again a week and a half later?! LOL

I'm telling you - find a way to sit on the sideline until you get the right parts. Until then, the LS1tech.com LT1 forum is going to point and laugh. You've gotten the good, CORRECT advice and are deliberately choosing not to take it.

And for the record, Wicked94Z's advice is sound, but translated into high school terminology, it reads: "You don't know what you're doing, so just wait and buy the right springs."

End of story.

 

/thread.

 

On it lol.....

Agreed, valve spring choice is very important in a motor.

i understand the lack of funds....like said above maybe you should've waited to take on this project untill you could do everything at once......as for valve springs, understand one thing, a cheap set of unproperly specd valve springs on your motor can have a high risk of failure......if a valve spring fails theres a good chance of the valve falling into the motor and well........yea thats the end of that now you'll be building a motor. I'd reccomend using a PSI Endurance spring I've been running them for a while on a crazy solid roller and they are perfect. For the short time if you really need to put something cheap on it id try these.....
Run the patriot golds....255 for the set with seats, retainers, locks and springs....not the most durable thing out there but they'll work....
http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...iners_815.html

you could run the comp 26918's as well they're a single beehive spring at a decent price.......im telling you now though no matter which way you try and get out its going to be around 250.

hope this helps a bit and understand that we are just trying to help you out.......alot of us on here have done many projects like this......the best way is always to be patient and just do the job the right way and once....

+1 lol.......how u been by the way man? hows the car been? i got mine in pieces right now waiting for parts lol

 

Already? When I saw you last Fri @ NED it was running just fine Now, MY car is in pieces...I'll shoot you a PM.

 

yea it was running fine....that was the problem lol......its always more right?.....yea I enjoyed making my 1 12.1 @ 127 pass and then driving home in the hurricane lol

 

wasnt supposed to be tooken that way and i siad that do to the fact of my other thread about this on another forum.

i called summit and the ones the cam that are reccamend are 153 with the 10 degree retains and locks


i do have the tools to do springs on the motor though

 

I honestly have no idea what you just said or what you're getting at.

 

My friend, there is no "limping" the car around with the wrong valve springs. The cam is not a VTEC, it opens the valves just as much at 500rpm as it does at 6000rpm.

Go with the wrong springs and you won't have a car to drive. Spring failure means you drop a valve and kill a piston (or eight).

Just find a good set of the RIGHT springs but CHEAP AND USED (lower miles of course) and you'll be way better off...

 

i dunno about you, but some internet stranger's word doesnt mean ****. if the OP had a spring tester, and could interpret those numbers... then maybe

 

Where is the facepalm smiley when you need it. OP i was in your mindset when I was 17-18. I know what you are thinking and I know why you arent listening to everyone on here. I learned the hard way to save up once for my exhaust. I wanted a GMMG for the longest time. First i had a flowmaster muffler, then a TSP rumbler, then i swapped out the bullet for a loudmouth resonator, then I finally bought a used GMMG. Had I waited and dont it right the first time I would have saved myself a lot of money in the long run. But you are talking about skimping out on springs. DONT do it. Get everything you need first. This isnt a DIY intake you can make from autozone and cheap out on. You could kill your engine if you pick the wrong springs. If that does happen none of us will feel sorry for you because we tried to warn you. But its your car, and if you are not willing to wait a few days for springs that will save your engine versus buying springs that will not work and will get to you fast go right ahead.

 

welp, keep us posted on the carnage thats about to ensue bigbird!

 

I have a used set of the crane 10308 springs. Lloyd Elliot just checked the spring pressure for me and they are good to go. I'm looking to get $120.

 

Im going to be running a set of these http://www.alexsparts.com/products/C...%26-Cups..html I have not started the motor yet but so far the service and quality seems to be great! Also ordered new valve seals from him.

 

at thinking the quality of a complete set of springs and hardware for $88 is good. In the case of valvetrain parts you do get what you pay for.

 

Just so you know the second spring that you posted lists an install height of 1.700" and an open height of 1.180". This means the recommended height of install, and how far open you can safely take the spring. Do the math here, 1.700- 1.180= .520" of travel, and you are running a cam/rocker combo that will be over the max for that spring. Can you say COIL BIND?? Keep in mind that this is with a PROPERLY setup spring. Most first-timers just swap springs and are done with it, they don't bother to check the install heaight, or to make a solid lifter and rotate the engine through it's travel to check for coil bind. When we put the 918 beehives onto my TFS heads, we couldn't get them to the factory install heaight due to the differences in the depth of the spring pockets. It was close, but not quite right. It would have been catostrophic to run the motor like that. Something would have broken and caused $1000's in damage. We had to order special locks that raised the retainer up just a smidgen to get everything safely in clearance. It took an extra day and about $45 for the parts to do it. But the motor has been together now for 4 years because we took the time to measure and do it right. You could simply run the stock 1.5 rockers and have AMPLE room with either of the springs you mention. Then in the future, you could upgrade to a better spring and run the 1.6 rockers you have. Your car won't make much more power going from a 1.5 rocker to a 1.6 rocker. Maybe 6-10hp.

 

you would be shocked at this industry if you new how alot of the stuff in it is made by 1 company and then gets a name of another slapped on it and marked up 200% because of the name..

 

i am just going to have to wait 15 weeks till i get enough money to get the lifters springs retainers and reataner locks along with plug. plug wires, injectors, and a tune. so for the time being i will continue to have no car like i have bee doing for almost the last year

 

why dont you have your car running

 

Isn't it obvious?

 

its overheated at the local mcacdonalds and i have to replace the clutch but hte pilot bearing doesnt want to come out even with the puller and its 5 pound slide hammer so it isnt that obvious