wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I am still using the rubber hoses and I would not expect stainless lines to make a difference worthy of the expense and trouble.

I am going to get some Hawk HPS pads first and see what happens. If I am still am not very happy with the braking, then maybe a vacuum pump. And as an absolute last resort, a looser LSA on the cam.

JAKEJR

Rhoads lifters are an option. Guys on CF are raving about them over the past few days.

I ran a set when they were first introduced - what was that, back in the 70s - and they DO work.

Jake

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

How exactly do they work?
What is CF?

Fazz73jr

iTrader: (3)

I belive it means corvette fourms.

I belive the rhoads lifter bleed off at low rpm causing the cam to seem smaller. (less duration and lift, not sure about lsa) and restore to normal in high rpm. Google it cause it's been a while since the last time I read up on those.

94Z28rag

iTrader: (10)

Just to make sure I got all of this......the cam was blamed for a braking problem that has since been attributed to shitty pads?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

The pads are the only mechanical braking thing left to consider. The cam clearly has impacted my vacuum as well. I am hoping that maybe my current pads are glazed and not gripping well. Putting some known better pads like the HPS ones on should answer that question.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

There's an easy way to test the vacuum theory.... Get to around 6k in 2nd gear, let off the gas so you pull a ton of vacuum, then try the brakes.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I have done this. They work much much better.

JAKEJR

They are designed to bleed down at low rpms, thus increasing vacuum marketedly. As the rpms increase, time is reduced for the bleed down and full camshaft timing returns.

From reading the posts on CF (Corvette Forum - C4 Engine Tech board), they company has new designs for both flat tappet and hydraulic roller cams. I believe one at least one of the Big Boys - CompCams maybe, also make a similar version which does the same thing.

Rhoades site may have actual dyno data and photos of the increase in vacuum that results.

Hope this helps.

Jake

dphc18

iTrader: (5)

Any news on a fix I am having a similar problem

boostedlt1

iTrader: (2)

I'm running a 224/224 on a 114 and I'm only pulling about 12" so don't bother trying a different cam. I noticed a softer pedal with my cam but nothing insane. I don't have ABS so I don't have to worry about activating it lol

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I think he replaced the booster and all is well. I'm pulling about 11.5" of vacuum and brakes work fine. Of course they work better when the engine is decelerating, however for normal driving it's passable.

duh

iTrader: (16)

This is the biggest indicator of all. There is (or was) way too much heat in the rotors. Definitely replace the pads. If all else fails, consider a hydra boost setup off of the astro van. IIRC it will fit to the stock master and you only have to swap over the booster mounting bracket, then run the lines. I know it adds weight, but if you're looking for power brakes and concerned about vacuum, just eliminate it all together....

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Correct. I pull 12.5" of vacuum and they work well. I still have the vacuum pump installed and working and it provides some benefit under certain conditions from what I can tell. It was installed before finding the leaky booster. I also installed new pads and saw little improvement.

UnitZ28

did you have the rotors turned before you mated new pads to them?