LT1 sludge, suggestions?
Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. Based on that I'm hearing, I probably shouldn't use anything chemical to dislodge all of that stuff as it is. What would you guys say to me removing the valve covers and oil pan to physically remove what I can, then using something like autorx or essentialube to clean what I couldn't get to? Would that still be risky as far as clogging something up?
Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. Based on that I'm hearing, I probably shouldn't use anything chemical to dislodge all of that stuff as it is. What would you guys say to me removing the valve covers and oil pan to physically remove what I can, then using something like autorx or essentialube to clean what I couldn't get to? Would that still be risky as far as clogging something up?
Did that muffler work out for you?
Jay- I'll pull the pan and let you know if I need that pickup tube or not, thanks. the muffler worked out great, just had a shop weld on some different tips and weld it to the I-pipe, thanks again.
I have the next couple days off, I'll pull it apart if I get the time to do so and post the results on here.
I have the next couple days off, I'll pull it apart if I get the time to do so and post the results on here.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
from mobil1's site
Mobil 1 High Mileage fully synthetic motor oil is designed especially for engines where conventional oil has been used, and where these conditions have been experienced:
Severe Service
Extended Oil Drains
Poor Maintenance
Multiple Owners
For engines where heavy deposits and sludging exist, we recommend short initial oil change drain intervals of 3,000 miles as cleanup progresses.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 is designed for higher mileage vehicles and provides the following benefits:
Extra anti-wear additive helps protect critical engine parts.
Reduces the sludge and deposits that conventional oils can leave behind.
Contains a special seal conditioner to help recondition seals and prevent leaks.
Higher viscosity formula helps reduce oil burn-off and leakage.
Meets API SL/CF
ILSAC GF-3 quality
Mobil 1 High Mileage fully synthetic motor oil is designed especially for engines where conventional oil has been used, and where these conditions have been experienced:
Severe Service
Extended Oil Drains
Poor Maintenance
Multiple Owners
For engines where heavy deposits and sludging exist, we recommend short initial oil change drain intervals of 3,000 miles as cleanup progresses.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 is designed for higher mileage vehicles and provides the following benefits:
Extra anti-wear additive helps protect critical engine parts.
Reduces the sludge and deposits that conventional oils can leave behind.
Contains a special seal conditioner to help recondition seals and prevent leaks.
Higher viscosity formula helps reduce oil burn-off and leakage.
Meets API SL/CF
ILSAC GF-3 quality
If you want to clean that **** out without tearing the engine apart, go to walmart, autozone, oreilys, etc and buy a LOT of the cheapest oil they have, and several cheap filters.
Run the oil til it turns black, change immediately, and repeat. It will probably take many many oil changes, but that's the best way to start getting it out of there.
Something on the order of 200-500 mile changes will start doing the job.
Run the oil til it turns black, change immediately, and repeat. It will probably take many many oil changes, but that's the best way to start getting it out of there.
Something on the order of 200-500 mile changes will start doing the job.
If you want to clean that **** out without tearing the engine apart, go to walmart, autozone, oreilys, etc and buy a LOT of the cheapest oil they have, and several cheap filters.
Run the oil til it turns black, change immediately, and repeat. It will probably take many many oil changes, but that's the best way to start getting it out of there.
Something on the order of 200-500 mile changes will start doing the job.
Run the oil til it turns black, change immediately, and repeat. It will probably take many many oil changes, but that's the best way to start getting it out of there.
Something on the order of 200-500 mile changes will start doing the job.
FYI - My step-father, a GM ASE-certified master mechanic, suggested using at 60/40 to 50/50 blend of oil and ATF and changing the filter and oil/ATF mixture every 50 miles or so - I did this a number of years ago with a 66 2+2 that had mega-sludge buildup, like yours, and after 3 oil changes, the engine was clean.
Having said that, with any 'chemical' solution (vs. dis-assembly and cleaning parts individually), there is always the possibility of too much sludge coming off at one time and then clogging the oil return passages.
Having said that, with any 'chemical' solution (vs. dis-assembly and cleaning parts individually), there is always the possibility of too much sludge coming off at one time and then clogging the oil return passages.
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Sludge I work at a dealership and we use BG products. I would recommend using BG MOA. You run it in the engine for 20 minutes and then change the oil. I've had so much sludge come out that it clogged the drain plug up.
Auto-rx it for sure, my old engine had the oil filter plugged up in 1500 miles full of crap that stuff dislodged. I think thats the only reason it lasted so long with me revving it to 6500 all the time
All those other quick flush and change the oil things are bad dont use them
All those other quick flush and change the oil things are bad dont use them
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 529
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
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From: Nebraska
Im just speaking from experience of pulling apart 2 small block chevys that had pennzoil in it most of their lives and they were just gunked up beyond hot tanking!
I didn't get around to pulling anything apart yet, but I did change the oil 2x on monday. For the first change I got it really hot by driving around aggressively and let it drain for an hour or so, then refilled with about 50/50 transmission fluid and some conventional castrol (new filter, of course) and then drove it for about 40 miles and changed it again- it was black as tar both times, but the second time it was not as thick. I refilled it with another mixture of ATF and oil (another new filter) and I'm going to leave it in for a little longer. I do want to pull the valve covers at least and see what that looks like, just need to get around to doing that.
