LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Help Killagt calm the hell down please.

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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 07:08 PM
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Default Help Killagt calm the hell down please.

I made couple topic about my car problem. And now Im start to freak out really bad, after a friend dad give me his opinion that he think about my car. My english is bad, but please try to understand. I will break it down everything I can.

exhault making pop sound when it cold only going to second gear. like back fire or something only shift from first to second.

1: The car is making a knock sound, on passenger side. It making same noise when I start the car in really hot weather. some time it dont make noise at idle. I see a little smoke from passenger side header. The knock sound ONLY happent when I put on first gear and accelation. Sound like something is hitting some thing. its kinda hesritate and bog down a bit, look like you let the clutch out too early and it bog down the car, second , third, four , fifth, six, is ride smooth. Car is pull hard every gear accept, kind knock hesriate, and bog down on first gear. And if I rev the car up a bit on first gear and let the clutch out, car will not bog down or knock sound at all.

I was park on stiff up hill and car almost die when I try to get off the hill on first gear, it knock and bog down, but it wont turn off the car, 2-3-4-5-6 after that run good.

I let my friend dad check, he say it not engine mount, then he ride my car, and first thing after he get back, he told me " find a buyer ! " cause the clutch, tranny is on it way out, and I have a miss at bottem of the engine. He say the tranny is not shift smooth ( dint every stock t56 not shift smooth and kinda notchy ? ). and all gear is not grind, accept revert, some time grind. He recomment me sell the car, or spend at lease $2000 on tranny, and he told me if I want to sell he have some one give me a little bit of moneys for it.

then his son ( is best friend of mine ) driving the car, first thing he say , the noise is not from the engine ).

2: My rear diff pinion seal is leak, and dealer say $200 dollar for fit it, and I try to buy just the seal and good friend of mine will help me put it on, and dealer told me they have 2 different kind of seal, the one that came with 2 peace ( 10 dollar ), and the other one just came with 1 peace ( 12 dollar something ). Which one do I need for my rear diff ?

I really dont want sell my car, I love the car. I have a feeling something can be fix without being broke. BTW I just drove 300 miles trip, and run and drive good. Im so frustrade right now, I have no one else , just you guys, so please give me some opinion. Again please try to understand my english, if it made your head hurt, im sorry . Thank you

Engine mod : Short header with O-R Y pipe
OTVC Red Taylor spark plug with NGK TR55 0.050
EGR/AIR delete
160* stat
Pro 5.0
rear 02 sensort not hook up.

Check engine light 6 code
P040 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction

Last edited by killagt; Aug 16, 2010 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by killagt
exhault making pop sound when it cold only going to second gear. like back fire or something only shift from first to second.
Could be related to your O2 codes. Get them working right, then see if you have a problem.

Originally Posted by killagt
1: The car is making a knock sound, on passenger side. It making same noise when I start the car in really hot weather. some time it dont make noise at idle. I see a little smoke from passenger side header. The knock sound ONLY happent when I put on first gear and accelation. Sound like something is hitting some thing. its kinda hesritate and bog down a bit, look like you let the clutch out too early and it bog down the car, second , third, four , fifth, six, is ride smooth. Car is pull hard every gear accept, kind knock hesriate, and bog down on first gear. And if I rev the car up a bit on first gear and let the clutch out, car will not bog down or knock sound at all.
have you checked your tranny mount?

Originally Posted by killagt
I was park on stiff up hill and car almost die when I try to get off the hill on first gear, it knock and bog down, but it wont turn off the car, 2-3-4-5-6 after that run good.

I let my friend dad check, he say it not engine mount, then he ride my car, and first thing after he get back, he told me " find a buyer ! " cause the clutch, tranny is on it way out, and I have a miss at bottem of the engine. He say the tranny is not shift smooth ( dint every stock t56 not shift smooth and kinda notchy ? ). and all gear is not grind, accept revert, some time grind. He recomment me sell the car, or spend at lease $2000 on tranny, and he told me if I want to sell he have some one give me a little bit of moneys for it.
All respect to your friends dad, but don't listen to him.

Originally Posted by killagt
then his son ( is best friend of mine ) driving the car, first thing he say , the noise is not from the engine ).

2: My rear diff pinion seal is leak, and dealer say $200 dollar for fit it, and I try to buy just the seal and good friend of mine will help me put it on, and dealer told me they have 2 different kind of seal, the one that came with 2 peace ( 10 dollar ), and the other one just came with 1 peace ( 12 dollar something ). Which one do I need for my rear diff ?
I've never heard of a 2 piece pinion seal, in any car.

Originally Posted by killagt
I really dont want sell my car, I love the car. I have a feeling something can be fix without being broke. BTW I just drove 300 miles trip, and run and drive good. Im so frustrade right now, I have no one else , just you guys, so please give me some opinion. Again please try to understand my english, if it made your head hurt, im sorry . Thank you
it doesn't sound to me like you have any problems that rise over "annoyance" at this stage, although the O2 sensor issue can cause you some problems if you don't get it taken care of.
Get you EGR replaced, while you're at it...or get it blocked off. You also have a vacuum leak from this. This may also be the cause of your popping just off idle.

Last edited by fleetmgr; Aug 16, 2010 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Thanks for rely. the is the code say o2 sensort for the rear of the front ? I could not understand about the o2 sensor.
2 in the front look new. and 2 rear does not hook up. is 2 rear require to hook up ?

the EGR just got block off 2 day ago.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by killagt
Thanks for rely. the is the code say o2 sensort for the rear of the front ? I could not understand about the o2 sensor.
2 in the front look new. and 2 rear does not hook up. is 2 rear require to hook up ?

the EGR just got block off 2 day ago.
OK, when you blocked off the EGR, did you also block off the vacuum line going to it? Or is it like some other GM's with electrical control?

I'll let someone else chime in on the O2's, not my area of expertise.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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The rear o2s do not affect how the car runs. They just tell you your cats are working.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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all those codes really dont mean much. Doesnt affect anything. you can get them all set to "ready" with a mail order tune.


Bank 1 sensor 1 (Driver side in the header)
Bank 2 sensor 1 (passenger side in the header)
Bank 1 sensor 2 (Driver side cat converter 02)
Bank 2 sensor 2 (Passenger side cat converter o2)
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fleetmgr
OK, when you blocked off the EGR, did you also block off the vacuum line going to it? Or is it like some other GM's with electrical control?

I'll let someone else chime in on the O2's, not my area of expertise.
yes I block it off, here the pix where I block the vacum, is this right ? my camera is low battery, I have to hijack from shbox.



and here the driver side o2 sensor, it been rust and stuck to header, After couple kick it finally coming out, is this look normal ?



and passenger side o2, I could get it off atm,

and tranmission mount, I dont know how to test to determine its bad, I try wiggy it, but it just solid.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Badazz 97 TA
all those codes really dont mean much. Doesnt affect anything. you can get them all set to "ready" with a mail order tune.


Bank 1 sensor 1 (Driver side in the header)
Bank 2 sensor 1 (passenger side in the header)
Bank 1 sensor 2 (Driver side cat converter 02)
Bank 2 sensor 2 (Passenger side cat converter o2)
or all those code I have above, dont really mean anything or affect how the car running right ? now im scare.

btw if I need o2 sensor, 2 in the front, I look at the site and it say Pre-cat and post-cat, what that mean ? http://www.oxygensensors.com/catalog.php?&pkey=1035964 im looking at denso ( some say ac delco is made by denso ).

Last edited by killagt; Aug 16, 2010 at 09:50 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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well you listed the same code 3 times for the EGR. Doesnt hurt anything.

The o2 code you have doesnt hurt anything, it just monitors the cat. You have nothing to worry about. Pre-cat is in the headers. post cat is after the cat converters. You need to stop being so paranoid about every little thing. lol
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:19 PM
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by the look at the o2 sensor above, should I replace it even it dint throw any code ?

about rear diff pinion seal, so its just 1 peace seal , dealer have in stock I will pick it up tomorrow.

any other ideal on the knock at hot weather idle ( I never heard knock in the morning ), just when I go lunch or get off work when out side really hot. and knock and bog down when Im stop and go on first gear. Any body think is some kind of engine damage ? no smoke out tail pipe, car pull hard and respond really good.

clutch ? tranmission damage ?
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:40 PM
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I really think that your knock is something hitting something. What does the shifter do when you hear it?
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by fleetmgr
I really think that your knock is something hitting something. What does the shifter do when you hear it?
shifter act normal. it dint viberate.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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Once you take the rear end apart you can tell which type of pinion seal you have. The dealership I worked at told me to just buy both seals and return the one that is not the same as the one that is being replaced. I would also agree with fleetmgr about the knocking noise.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Slow94Formula
Once you take the rear end apart you can tell which type of pinion seal you have. The dealership I worked at told me to just buy both seals and return the one that is not the same as the one that is being replaced. I would also agree with fleetmgr about the knocking noise.
its not internal engine damage/ tranmission internal damage relatve noise u guy mean right.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 02:56 AM
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even if you delete the egr system, you will still throw codes, you need a tune to delete/turn off the egr fault codes..


for the knocking sound, you might check your front torque arm mount/bushing.
and also check your U-joints... u-joints can pop pretty loud when they are going out..

pinion seal is one piece in every rearend i've ever seen, its fairly easy to swap out..
check your rearend oil while your changing the pinion seal... would also be a good time to check your u-joints, and the front torque arm bushing/mount while your under the car.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 04:35 AM
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U-joints is the on on the driveshaft and rear diff right ?
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 05:40 AM
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They are the x pieces that are bolted into the driveshaft. Vehicle in the air with the vehicle in either park, or 1st for a manual, and the parking brake on, check to see how much you can rotate the driveshaft by hand, and look for play around those. You shouldn't be able to see/feel any slack with them.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 09:49 AM
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keep in mind, If your changing out the pinion seal yourself make sure that you set the pinion nut preload correctly. It isnt just a regular bolt that you tighten down. You tighten it down until you get the correct spinning resistance of the rear itself. Too loose or too tight will mess up your rear end and bearings bad.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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Update : I found the noise and its fking easy to fix !!

I take to my trust mechanic ( he race drive and own few lt1 himself ). He drive it and as soon the noise is up. He told me go to muffler shop !, and he drove my car with me their, when we get their, I told the guy about the noise, and he bang the pipe, and bam the same noise !! it the metal bar under the exhault and driveshaft. it got some how too close to the pipe, he pull it down a bit, and now the noise is gone. NOW IM THINKING MY FRIEND DAD TRY TO SCREW ME OVER !!, about engine rebuild, need new clutch and tranmission and at least 2000 dollar to fix is all bullshit. this muffler shop guy dont even charge me anything.


while under the , I call my mechanic over and tell him about pinion seal, he put his hand in it and moving it a bit, and it does have some little slack, he told me $80 to fix everything !! he say bring the car over tomorrow at 8:30am.

I let him drove the car and man this guy drove my car hard, he test the clutch, tranmission, and he told me it fine, this car have good power lol.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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Take out the g-load brace. It won't hurt anything and your rattling will go away.
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