ChandlerMotorsports

iTrader: (3)

Of course they're sealed. I'm just pointing out all the failure points of the unit and ways to extend the life of it. If you don't care, then don't head the advice. In fact, the power washing issue isn't even just an optispark issue. When I was 16 I worked at a car wash that did detailing. We had to replace more than our fair share of ignition components on various makes and models when the prep guys got carried away.

BTC

My factory original opti lasted over 100K, and was still working when my car went into long term storage. When I pulled the car out, it wasn't working so well anymore. I know the water pump had been leaking on it a bit prior to my adandoning the car for 6-7 years. When I removed it, it was a rusted mess. The car would still run with it, but under any load whatsoever it sounded like it might explode. My second AC/Delco may have five miles on it, most of those on jackstands.

garage_queen

iTrader: (3)

I imagine allot of folks never really think to check the vacuum lines running to their vented opti. I would venture to say that if the hose on the fresh air side has a crack or leak, it would probably suck in a little water....right? bye bye opti if it does.

Mighty Whitey

Sorry fellas, but trying to preserve the opti in any way is like sticking a band aid on a compound fracture. The intentions are well, but not quite good enough.

I stuck an lt1 in my '94 silverado z71 that sees it's fair share of mud holes and water crossings (this isn't a *****-out off road truck either, just using the truck how gm intended it.)
naturally, I decided to ax the opti right off the bat. If I've got it loaded down with would and it decides to hiccup and die when crossing a stream with 2500lbs of firewood in the bed?you can guarantee the wood isn't the only thing I'd be setting ablaze.
For rock-solid reliabilty, and enough performance for 95% of the ppl out there, it's tough to beat a small-cap hei.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

That's pretty ignorant to say.. Good enough for most fast LTx cars. Really depends on your purpose. If it's in the car it was meant for and you take some time to seal it up/do preventative maintenance - it will be no different than any other wear and tear part.

Jeep_junkie

Also consider converting your non-vented opti to the vented style.
The non-vented opti does have three small vent holes at the bottom of the base but all they're good for is letting oil and moisture in. They don't allow for any circulation. The easy way to do the conversion is to swap over a vented cap and modify the stock base by adding a vacuum fitting to one of the vent holes and blocking off the other two. You will need to ream the hole out with a 1/8" bit for the vacuum fitting. Zip tie vacuum hoses to the fittings and run one to the intake elbow and the other to a vacuum source such as the brake booster line. You can also install a one way check valve on the suction line for good measure. Make sure you use blue loctite on the rotor screws and plenty of silicon on the seams when reassembling the opti, especially around the electrical connector, which has a tricky shape making it prone to leaks. As long as you properly seal the whole unit, it should run damn near completely submerged with zero issues.

Zman98

We fixed my buddy's opti 3 times before we figured out a way to prevent the wter pump from leaking on it. Basically, we tapped the seep hole on the bottom of the new pump and threaded a fitting with a male end on it. Then ran vacuum line around the opti till it was below it. Then zip tied it away so if the pump goes out, it leaks away from the opti. To my knowledge, it is still this way 5+ years later.

ChandlerMotorsports

iTrader: (3)

If you can do a write up with some hand drawn diagrams I'll send you a cap and rotor for your troubles. I'll include the writeup in the boxes.

BTC

Are the Chandler Motorsports optis manufactured domestically?

ChandlerMotorsports

iTrader: (3)

No, and I don't think any of them are. I'm fairly certain AC Delco's is made in Mexico. If you count NAFTA then yes AC Delco is probably domestic

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

I believe the Dynaspark is .......Maybe ? ???????? ???

JAKEJR

One of the mags did a step-by-step on doing that mod. I've got it tucked away around here somewhere. If you need me to track it down let me know and I'll see what I can do. I suspect it's on-line too.

Jake

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/16758/index.html

Jeep_junkie

That's pretty much how I modified my opti, only difference being I used only one of the holes instead of using all three.

ChandlerMotorsports

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to start trying to integrate these modifications into future part sales.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

The full blown rotor failures COME from loose rotor screws.

Mine has been to 7k a ton of times, I used the green on them. No probs as of yet.

EDIT there are different kinds of green, I used "stud and bearing mount" its some bad azz stuff.


Oh yeh, a heads up....by a regular ole inverted torx bit for the cap screws, grind the shoulder off to get down into the holes of the cap to reach the screw heads.

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

Ihave a 1995 trans am origianal untouched optispark 160,000 miles. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will make it to 200k, no misfires, just changed the knock sensor and its running great.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

If everyone new how to help the opti last, I might not have been able to buy a 94 z28 this week for $800 with a brand new water pump and radiator hose.....and a brand new no start condition.

marc1130

iTrader: (20)

Obviously the contacts on the cap and rotor are gonna wear to the point where they become inoperable, but for now i have a leak free coolant system and I have been running an electric water pump for about 70k miles.

Replaced the transmission at 90k, went through 2 mcleod street stip clutches / pressure plate, 1 flywheel, 1 clutch slave cylinder, 2 clutch master cylinders, 3 window motors, 2 transmission mounts, 1 set of motor mounts, 1 limited slip differential carrier, 1 heater core check valve, 1 wheel bearing, 1 power steering pump, 2 alternators, 3 batteries, 1 oil pan gasket, 1 pilot bushing, 1 rear main seal........did all the work myself, have fun with you new purchase. Oh yeah your cat may get clogged at 120k miles. Running ngk plugs and taylor wires - seems to do well.

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

another good tip is when you have the waterpump off to tap out the weep hole with 1/8" NPT tap. Then install a 1/8" male NPT to 1/8" hose barb. Then you can find some 1/8" ID hose and run the hose away from the opti so when the water pump pukes it wont puke on top of the opti.

An electric pump would do the same thing since the weep hole would be totally blocked off with an EWP.