1997 SS power suggestions...
1997 SS power suggestions... Well, I bought a 1997 SS with a Vortech/Aftercooler set up on it. 6 speed, already bought headers, GMMG is coming, but the engine is blown and I need some help. I'm shooting for 600+ to the wheels, already looking at buying a dynaspark, doing a 383 or a 355 with a lower the compression ratio, but that's where I'm lost. I'm looking to see what brand or what components everyone recommends as far as the engine, bottom end as well as the top end are. Looking at an LE top end so far. Also with what fuel upgrades should be done? I have whatever comes with the Vortech kit, don't know if that's enough. Also a recommendation on what clutch everyone is running, rear end will probably be a Moser, all suspension is already done, mostly bottom end help and clutch recommendations. Any other suggestions would be helpful, looking for a streetable SS, don't care about gas mileage or how it drives. Just want it to be fast 
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LE setups can definately make some power, I'd give them a call to see what exactly they reccomend for a blown application for heads/cam.
whatever you do for engine internals, don't skimp out. Don't try to save money there, if you do, you'll likely have to spend twice-buy what you need.
How many psi can you run out of that supercharger?
whatever you do for engine internals, don't skimp out. Don't try to save money there, if you do, you'll likely have to spend twice-buy what you need.
How many psi can you run out of that supercharger?
I don't know how much boost this is capable of, hopefully someone will chime. I'm definetly not skimping out on the bottom end, which is why I need some suggestions! Money will be spent where it needs to be.
You really need to call Lloyd Elliot and just have a conversation with him. He is a great guy to bounce stuff off of. He may be able to help you with piston choice and what kind of boost that blower can make and where you want to be. There is a point on boost that the LT1 pcm is not the best choice in the world. You may want to look at the EFI connection stuff and just spend the money to convert it and it will run right. No more opti and no surge and high end cut out.
i would also consider a strange 12 bolt rather than moser, the 4 short bolts that the moser has have a history of backing out. mine were tack welded so they couldnt and when we checked them today the welds were actually broken and the bolts started loosening
Your talking about for the torque arm aren't you? That happened to a few people I know, and my brothers car, does the strange have the 2 straight through ones instead of the 4?
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I would do an all forged 383 with a Compstar 4340 crank and 6" rods, -22cc dished forged pistons, splayed billet mains, Canton or other larger capacity oilpan, LE3 heads and custom blower cam, Shon Herron billet oil pump drive housing and a Melling Select oilpump. for the rear I would recommend the Strange S60 - Dana 60 rear as it's one of the strongest you can get.
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I would do an all forged 383 with a Compstar 4340 crank and 6" rods, -22cc dished forged pistons, splayed billet mains, Canton or other larger capacity oilpan, LE3 heads and custom blower cam, Shon Herron billet oil pump drive housing and a Melling Select oilpump. for the rear I would recommend the Strange S60 - Dana 60 rear as it's one of the strongest you can get.
I agree also with doing a PCM conversion, I've looked more and more into the LS1 computer swap and I must say...I'm starting to save my pennies...
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Verdad Gallardo I would do an all forged 383 with a Compstar 4340 crank and 6" rods, -22cc dished forged pistons, splayed billet mains, Canton or other larger capacity oilpan, LE3 heads and custom blower cam, Shon Herron billet oil pump drive housing and a Melling Select oilpump. for the rear I would recommend the Strange S60 - Dana 60 rear as it's one of the strongest you can get.
I'll be giving Lloyd a call in the morning and see what he suggests, he's somewhat local to me. So far got suggestions on the rear end, still looking for some clutch suggestions, only one off the top my head I can think of is the McLeod. Also I don't think the PCM conversion is something I want to tackle, so far after some searching it seems the dynaspark should suffice. If I can only hit a certain target with the stock computer and set up, so be it. I really just want a stout street car, it will rarely see the track. Its main use is a car to have fun in...
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600rw is nothing to sneeze at. I would get quality parts.
Crank, lunati, compstar, callies
rods, lunati, manley, oliver,
pistons, JE, Diamond, Ross
There are more good parts to chose from than what i just mentioned but most willl agree not to do 600HP on a budget.
LE or AI for the topend and let them pick a custom cam.
9 inch or S60 rearend if you ever want to have any fun
50-60lb injectors, dual intank 255 pumps or a 420. a 255 is maxed out at 600
ST clutch or another twin disk
strong aftermarket DS, there are many
suspension, well it depends on what you want to do with it.
I hope you have deep pockers
Crank, lunati, compstar, callies
rods, lunati, manley, oliver,
pistons, JE, Diamond, Ross
There are more good parts to chose from than what i just mentioned but most willl agree not to do 600HP on a budget.
LE or AI for the topend and let them pick a custom cam.
9 inch or S60 rearend if you ever want to have any fun
50-60lb injectors, dual intank 255 pumps or a 420. a 255 is maxed out at 600
ST clutch or another twin disk
strong aftermarket DS, there are many
suspension, well it depends on what you want to do with it.
I hope you have deep pockers
I don't understand why some say not to do it on a budget, I never once said I was? Anyway, these are some good suggestions, what's an ST clutch btw? I'll throw these ideas around with Lloyd & see what we come up with. I'll keep yal updated
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With what you have said, this build is going to cost you several thousand dollars to have it done right. I would dare to say at least 10K for an assembled short block using top notch quality parts and whatever heads/intake of your choice. That doesn't include final assembly or tuning. There really aren't a lot of members who make a thread stating "money is no object" type posts. Those who do usually don't know what they're getting into which is why caution has been mentioned regarding budget parts.
ST= McCleod Street Twin.
ST= McCleod Street Twin.
It's not that money is no object, it's just I'm willing to spend where it needs to be spent, ten grand seems like I'm building an all out race car. I'll be doing everything myself excluding building the engine, only labor I'm expecting to pay for is machining and assembly. But I understand why now, so thanks for the heads up. Hopefully my pockets can be that deep for this build 
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Hoagland, IN
Check out Midwest Chassis for your rear end. They build a sweet 9" for the F body. Plus with the purchase of the rear end, they give a nice discount on chromoly suspension parts.
I will have an Inland Empire 3" aluminum driveshaft for sale in the near future (switching to carbon fiber).[IMG]
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I will have an Inland Empire 3" aluminum driveshaft for sale in the near future (switching to carbon fiber).[IMG]
[/IMG] It's not that money is no object, it's just I'm willing to spend where it needs to be spent, ten grand seems like I'm building an all out race car. I'll be doing everything myself excluding building the engine, only labor I'm expecting to pay for is machining and assembly. But I understand why now, so thanks for the heads up. Hopefully my pockets can be that deep for this build
