I agree Chris, a well built motor should make about 1.4 flywheel hp per cubic inch so a 355= 497fwhp 425hp rwhp and a 396 = 555fwhp 475 rwhp.

 

^^ I'm assuming that would be naturally aspirated correct? If so, I would be happy with those numbers and then possibly adding on the Nitrous Outlet Plate Kit. To be honest I'll probably start the car N/A and get it dialed in before I go to the Nitrous.

And BADHAWK I saw your car at the shootout and that is one bad muthtrucka.

And btw does anyone have any part numbers they would recommend for the pistons and rods? I'm unsure of what I'm looking at when I'm on summit's website.

 

Why you gotta lie? BadHawk51 has one ***** LT1

 

hey man - you've got two builders you can talk to that are sponsors here. AES in elk Grove Village and clayton in Bartlett. We're lucky we have two shops so close to home. I'd tell you give them a call and see what they will recommend on internals as they are building a lot of stuff day in day out. here's a link to clayton on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...s#ht_967wt_941

you can do a lot of work yourself, but I would say leave the internals assembly to the pros especially if you haven't done it before. You can put the heads on and engine and all the other things, but the tolerances are precise and do need to get checked carefully on the internals.

Good luck and let us know what you decide! If I was doing it again, I would go 5.3 LM7 and turbo, I think that's the biggest bang for the buck at the moment.

 

I found a setup on here that I really like but it's more or less coming up with the funds. I have to get my stuff sold in order to pay for this so it'll be a slow process.

In the meantime though Mike (Black94z28) and I are going to be doing some much needed bodywork on the car probably starting next weekend sometime. I'll make sure to get some pictures of that up as well when I get the car in my parent's garage.

 

If you get the machine work done, I can help you assemble the engine. Just bring the pistons you plan on running to the machine shop when they bore your engine. Depending on the piston they may go a little tighter or looser on the hone.

 

Thanks man.


ha ha, your absolutely right this ***** purrrrrr's.

 

so I sold my '94 k5 blazer and planned on using the money as a down payment on an avalanche. well...found out that's not gonna work, I won't be able to afford the payments. So I'm thinking I may find some beater and use the rest of the money to put towards the motor.

btw. I know some people wanted to see what the car looks like, here it is...






and my newest/best/cheapest mod to the car yet:



LT1 OEM SS Spoiler, it fits PERFECT!!

 

what up Jay? Its a knock off of what Haiders car looks like but thats cool I hope all ur part searches are going well? Do you need valve springs for your new setup at all? I have some if you do. Also shoot me a pm of what else you might need.

 

Wow! Those taillights look familiar! Where have I seen those before??? haha Anyways bro, let me know if you are gonna get rid of your engine, seriously, i want it. Gonna try and get my 91 painted and driving with a V8 for spring.

 

so I've been sitting here all day trying to calculate how much this solid roller set up is going to cost vs. keeping my setup and getting the bottom end strengthened up.

I'm tossing around the idea of pulling my motor apart, taking the block to a shop having it cleaned up and using stock sized forged internals pistons, and rods, having the crank cleaned up, and having my stock heads mildly ported and then using the N20 Outlet Plate kit.

I know a huge difference from what my original plans are but I'm thinking it could be a huge cost savings, and then I would change my goals to a budget built high-mid 10 second car.

 

Plus you would have a much stronger foundation for later......the solid roller could become your next round of mods.

 

I can think of a few machine shops that are pretty local and have built some very good engines.....but with quality comes a price. the last engine I did cost $500 for a hone, cleaning, freeze plugs, and cam bearings installed. But I know there is zero worry about the quality of their work. There's another place over in Morton Grove.....they've built some insanely fast engines......Neither of them are sponsors so it's probably a no-no to tell you here....

BTW...I'm pretty sure I saw you trailering the car home from the shootout on the EOE...I was a little more than miffed I had to miss the fun (damn wedding anniversaries)......

 

^^ yea I remember you pm'd me about that shop, I'm thinking about taking it there because they're so close but we'll have to see. I have to get some money under my belt before I go pulling sh*t off.

BTW...anyone looking for some badass solid roller setup heads, check out my for sale thread. Mike (Black94z28) can vouch these heads are SICK!!

 

so I'm in negotiations now with a local engine builder, possibly trading my ported solid roller heads for him to take my shortblock and completely rebuild it.

I should also be getting my paint in sometime within the next week from a neighbor. (VP of International sales for PPG) Yup I got the hook up on that!

I will also be pulling the motor hopefully by the end of the month. I work at Stanley Steemer and they have an engine hoist that I will be borrowing.

 

cool so what's it going to be engine wise? you staying with the arctic white or a different white?

 

Always nice to have a hook-up

Good luck man!

 

the car is either going to be arctic white or 100% pure white, cuz the arctic white has some other colors in it and I want it to be blinding white. I'm going to have the top half of the lt1 ss spoiler painted white, and the bottom half painted a gloss black. the berger panel will be painted black as well.

As far as the engine, I'm thinking .030 over forged pistons, stock rods/crank both being cleaned up with ARP rod bolts. The guy is going to do a mild port job on my heads since they've already been cleaned, decked, and a valve job done. And then later down the road once I get the car dialed in then I'll start playing with nitrous. C

Cuz you know what they say about nitrous.

 

You should stop by on monday I am going to finally finish my 357 thats been apart for 10wks.

My build

357 40 over
stock crank .020
scat forged i beams 5.7
Speedpro forged 40 over slugs
ARP main studs
melling 10554 oil pump
canton 5qt pan
Little looser than stock ring gap, told him i would be hitting a 175 shot


topend
LE custom stick 226-234
light worked heads and intake. valvejob, gakset matching, milled .014
1.6 crane rr's
pac 1218
custom cometic .027 gasket

Lots of new bushings, motor mounts, spec 2+, new bfg KDW II's, new tune, new bolts, paint, under coating, weight loss, hoses, etc.

My machine shop bill was 2450, I got all the parts from them, I dropped off my fucked up stock shortblock and picked up the 357 balanced, assembled, everything, it was like i bought a shortblok from Golen but i used GOOD parts

I paid 1300 in labor to a mechanic who is one man band and doesn't always have stuff to do. So he works on it when he doesnt have anything else going on. I also did about 50% of the work. All in all it should go low 12's at 113-114 and will cost me about 6k. ( hopefully it will be 375rw)

I think you need a budget of 7.5k for the motor, really think about a new crank for 9's, than i am sure your going to need supporting mods to handle a setup like the one your planning on building.

 

I'm gonna have to stop by sometime and take a look at that beast. Right now I kind of re-worked my 1/4 mile time goals because it is unrealistic at this point trying to do it on a budget. I'm also gonna have to try and find a deal on a rear end and I'd like to get a tubular k-member, then my suspension will be pretty much complete.