sbc lt1 oil pump
You need a pickup tube with the right diameter for the oil pump. Also, HV oil pumps are unnecessary on 95% of builds. A standard volume/high pressure pump is all you need. I'd recommend the Melling Select 10554 (standard) OR the Melling Select 10552 (high volume/pressure, if you need it).
Only use one if your builder recommends it.
My tuner told me the same thing when we were talking about my build. He said at WOT for an extended period of time would suck the pan dry. Keep in mind you will realistically need 70lbs of oil pressure at most and the 40 or so just cruising/20 or so idling is perfectly ok.
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
The HV pump uses around 1/2 more HP than a stock one, if the pressure springs are the same, if you have a higher pressure spring in your stock volume pump , it actually uses more hp than the HV pump with a standard spring.
As said do not use an HV pump with a stock capacity pan for engine life reasons.
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you could also use a extra capacity vortec truck oilpan...
only time i use a hi volume hi pressure pump is when i can use atleast a 1qt extra capacity pan..
my bigblock truck runs 50psi at hot idle and hits 80psi from 4k rpm and up, i run a milodon 8qt pan.. i also use 2qt filters in the truck.. its built for street use and tolerances are in the mean..
only time i use a hi volume hi pressure pump is when i can use atleast a 1qt extra capacity pan..
my bigblock truck runs 50psi at hot idle and hits 80psi from 4k rpm and up, i run a milodon 8qt pan.. i also use 2qt filters in the truck.. its built for street use and tolerances are in the mean..
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There is a chance that during hard braking, maneuvering, and at WOT that the pan can run dry when used in conjunction with a stock capacity oil pan. Additionally, it takes more power to spin a high volume pump (due to the larger gears). This puts additional strain on the already fragile composite oil pump stub shaft.
Only use one if your builder recommends it.
Only use one if your builder recommends it.
My tuner told me the same thing when we were talking about my build. He said at WOT for an extended period of time would suck the pan dry. Keep in mind you will realistically need 70lbs of oil pressure at most and the 40 or so just cruising/20 or so idling is perfectly ok.
like i said above i did it.....i made a pull through 3rd gear on the street and then went into OD and when i backed off it was sucking air........also 70lbs i plently of oil pressure.....im running 60lbs at 8000rpm with no issues at all.
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From: Little Rock, AR
Shaft collar, the shaft itself is steel.
The HV pump uses around 1/2 more HP than a stock one, if the pressure springs are the same, if you have a higher pressure spring in your stock volume pump , it actually uses more hp than the HV pump with a standard spring.
As said do not use an HV pump with a stock capacity pan for engine life reasons.
The HV pump uses around 1/2 more HP than a stock one, if the pressure springs are the same, if you have a higher pressure spring in your stock volume pump , it actually uses more hp than the HV pump with a standard spring.
As said do not use an HV pump with a stock capacity pan for engine life reasons.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
If it took alot of power to turn a HV pump in 30 wt oil my cordless hand drill would have a hard time priming the motor. (and its rated at 1.5 hp)
http://www.mellingselectperformance....lume-pumps.pdf
Last edited by WS Sick; Sep 23, 2010 at 10:18 PM.
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i have always built gen1 sbc with hi-volume, high pressure pumps, with stock pans, but the stock pans are 1qt larger than the lt1 pans.. never had a problem with them...
i think the big problem with the lt1's are the composite drive gear and housing.. i think it deflects or twists, causes premature gear wear then it strips or breaks..
i thought the hi-volume/high pressure pump gears were 1.25 thick.. and standard volume was 1 inch..
i think the big problem with the lt1's are the composite drive gear and housing.. i think it deflects or twists, causes premature gear wear then it strips or breaks..
i thought the hi-volume/high pressure pump gears were 1.25 thick.. and standard volume was 1 inch..
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From: Little Rock, AR
The gears are 1/2 inch longer, the resistance of the oil on the output side of the pump is where the resistance comes, alot of that is blown back out by the releif valve.
If it took alot of power to turn a HV pump in 30 wt oil my cordless hand drill would have a hard time priming the motor. (and its rated at 1.5 hp)
http://www.mellingselectperformance....lume-pumps.pdf
If it took alot of power to turn a HV pump in 30 wt oil my cordless hand drill would have a hard time priming the motor. (and its rated at 1.5 hp)
http://www.mellingselectperformance....lume-pumps.pdf
The myths and fables on that paper must not apply to the LT1, since both running the pan dry (not so common) and drive gear wear (more common) are real world concerns documented by lots of internet threads. I do agree that increased bearing clearances play a part in wanting an HV pump, but most people don't run big clearances and therefore don't need one.
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
what I am saying is that using an extra hp or 2 will not be noticed between the two pumps and first off cannot even be shown on a dyno, Oil pressure differences have been proven on a dyno, even with a stock volume pump.
