Intake Manifold Studs
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 246
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From: Houston
Intake Manifold Studs Two of my intake manifold studs bent while on the cherry picker, so I picked up a new set from ARP.
After some research, it seems there is no direct LT1 set and the standard SBC set seals poorly because they are too short. I went with the big block kit based on the recomendation from a sponsor in an old thread. They seem to be comparable in size and lengh to the stockers, plus there is a few extras to toss in the spare parts jar, so I am hoping it all works out.
I have three questions:
1.) The new bolts are just a tiny bit longer than the stockers. Is there extra room for extra material in the block?
2.) The new set is all bolts and no studs. Were the studs used to connect other components on top of the manifold? If so, is there a work around? I still have two intact studs, so perhaps I can swap them around if necesary, although I have read that keeping the fasteners in the same location is important.
3.) Does the torque specs change?
Thank you in advance for any input.
(95 Z28 m6)
After some research, it seems there is no direct LT1 set and the standard SBC set seals poorly because they are too short. I went with the big block kit based on the recomendation from a sponsor in an old thread. They seem to be comparable in size and lengh to the stockers, plus there is a few extras to toss in the spare parts jar, so I am hoping it all works out.
I have three questions:
1.) The new bolts are just a tiny bit longer than the stockers. Is there extra room for extra material in the block?
2.) The new set is all bolts and no studs. Were the studs used to connect other components on top of the manifold? If so, is there a work around? I still have two intact studs, so perhaps I can swap them around if necesary, although I have read that keeping the fasteners in the same location is important.
3.) Does the torque specs change?
Thank you in advance for any input.
(95 Z28 m6)
Two of my intake manifold studs bent while on the cherry picker, so I picked up a new set from ARP.
After some research, it seems there is no direct LT1 set and the standard SBC set seals poorly because they are too short. I went with the big block kit based on the recomendation from a sponsor in an old thread. They seem to be comparable in size and lengh to the stockers, plus there is a few extras to toss in the spare parts jar, so I am hoping it all works out.
I have three questions:
1.) The new bolts are just a tiny bit longer than the stockers. Is there extra room for extra material in the block?
2.) The new set is all bolts and no studs. Were the studs used to connect other components on top of the manifold? If so, is there a work around? I still have two intact studs, so perhaps I can swap them around if necesary, although I have read that keeping the fasteners in the same location is important.
3.) Does the torque specs change?
Thank you in advance for any input.
(95 Z28 m6)
After some research, it seems there is no direct LT1 set and the standard SBC set seals poorly because they are too short. I went with the big block kit based on the recomendation from a sponsor in an old thread. They seem to be comparable in size and lengh to the stockers, plus there is a few extras to toss in the spare parts jar, so I am hoping it all works out.
I have three questions:
1.) The new bolts are just a tiny bit longer than the stockers. Is there extra room for extra material in the block?
2.) The new set is all bolts and no studs. Were the studs used to connect other components on top of the manifold? If so, is there a work around? I still have two intact studs, so perhaps I can swap them around if necesary, although I have read that keeping the fasteners in the same location is important.
3.) Does the torque specs change?
Thank you in advance for any input.
(95 Z28 m6)
The only things that mount using studs are on the passenger side, and they include a hold-down for the steam tube and the alternator bracket, both of which can be deleted without a problem. Off the top of my head, I'm not sure if there are other studs on the driver side as I have long replaced the stockers with ARP hardware.
Torque spec doesn't change a bit.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
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From: Kempner, TX
The main concern I'd have with slightly longer bolts would be the possibility of one or more making contact with a pushrod. A thicker washer or washers would solve that.
With the exception of the studs, I usually change the bolts to more attractive ones from ACE Hardware; like gold , stainless-steel or even chrome ones with matching flat washers. I've even swapped bolts to ones with different heads; torx, allen, etc.
Nothing really special about those bolts.
Jake
With the exception of the studs, I usually change the bolts to more attractive ones from ACE Hardware; like gold , stainless-steel or even chrome ones with matching flat washers. I've even swapped bolts to ones with different heads; torx, allen, etc.
Nothing really special about those bolts.
Jake
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Guess I should of read a little bit more closely.
Anywho, thanks for the input guys. I will use the washers to combat the length issue. Gojira is correct, not EGR for me. I am planning on using the alternator bracket and steam pipe however, so I guess I will move the two good studs to the passenger side and replace the rest with the new ARP hardware.
