2 grand left for a strip only build
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On The Tree
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2 grand left for a strip only build 1996 Formula A4 not running with many things missing. i.e. rear end, radiator hoses, catback system, torque arm, hood, and other little things.
As you can see it needs work but i decided it was a pretty good deal since i got it for 680. I took out plenty of stuff i.e. front and rear impact bars, front sway bar, carpet, radio, speakers, ac, ac condenser, wipers, stock exhaust, wiper fluid, back seats, passenger seat, antenna, center console, hatch shocks and a couple of brackets.
After getting most of this stuff off I worked on it a little more and got a hold of a rear end for 110, panhard bar for 20, stock rear shocks for 10, lower control arm relo brackets for 80, stock springs for 25, K&n cold air for 20, Opti from chandlers for 134 and ac delete pulley for 20.
I got the rear end installed and i didnt have the springs with me so it stayed like this till i could install them.
As you can see the engine compartment needs a good amount of work so this is where you come in.
I have added up the amount spent so far and it came out to 1099 spent so far. I have 2 grand left and I was wondering where to go from here. I have the ugly salad shooter rims and will be sticking with those for now. I will need to replace the fuel lines the usual stuff. The car is runnin as of now and it has no problems starting up or reving up it seems to be a good motor and trans. Im looking to get into the 12's guys so get me there as easy as you can with the 2 grand
As you can see it needs work but i decided it was a pretty good deal since i got it for 680. I took out plenty of stuff i.e. front and rear impact bars, front sway bar, carpet, radio, speakers, ac, ac condenser, wipers, stock exhaust, wiper fluid, back seats, passenger seat, antenna, center console, hatch shocks and a couple of brackets.
After getting most of this stuff off I worked on it a little more and got a hold of a rear end for 110, panhard bar for 20, stock rear shocks for 10, lower control arm relo brackets for 80, stock springs for 25, K&n cold air for 20, Opti from chandlers for 134 and ac delete pulley for 20.
I got the rear end installed and i didnt have the springs with me so it stayed like this till i could install them.
As you can see the engine compartment needs a good amount of work so this is where you come in.
I have added up the amount spent so far and it came out to 1099 spent so far. I have 2 grand left and I was wondering where to go from here. I have the ugly salad shooter rims and will be sticking with those for now. I will need to replace the fuel lines the usual stuff. The car is runnin as of now and it has no problems starting up or reving up it seems to be a good motor and trans. Im looking to get into the 12's guys so get me there as easy as you can with the 2 grand
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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Well i got one of those things down already and that is the cold air. Now the rest of that is wat sux cuz im kinda waiting around for some used stuff since im on a budget and all. I got 3.42's wouldnt that be enough for now i mean 3.73's are my ultimate goal but is it a big difference?
Yes go with 3.73 it's a huge difference.
I'm sure more people will chime in and recommend a good stall converter. Ive seen people say around 3200 - 3600 stall is good
Other stuff to keep in mind that will help
-rear control arms / relocate brackets
-adj. torque arm
-and good idea to get subframe connector at some point.
I'm sure more people will chime in and recommend a good stall converter. Ive seen people say around 3200 - 3600 stall is good
Other stuff to keep in mind that will help
-rear control arms / relocate brackets
-adj. torque arm
-and good idea to get subframe connector at some point.
Last edited by LT1; Oct 10, 2010 at 12:38 AM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 148
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Yes go with 3.73 it's a huge difference.
I'm sure more people will chime in and recommend a good stall converter. Ive seen people say around 3200 - 3600 stall is good
Other stuff to keep in mind that will help
-rear control arms / relocate brackets
-adj. torque arm
-and good idea to get subframe connector at some point.
I'm sure more people will chime in and recommend a good stall converter. Ive seen people say around 3200 - 3600 stall is good
Other stuff to keep in mind that will help
-rear control arms / relocate brackets
-adj. torque arm
-and good idea to get subframe connector at some point.
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and 1.7 rockers tho.
+tranny cooler.
Forget the y pipes and slap dual straight pipes and glass packs that end right there at the glass packs....right under front seats...maybe MAYBE short downturns to the gound....glass packs flow good for their prices...sound ok. sorry dont know any name brands I dont think it matters(cherry?)....u'd just be saving some weight and getting good flow for the doe.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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1.7 rockers? Isnt that a little too much for stock cam?
I decided to look for some brakes as of now before i run out of money but i was thinkin bout goin ls1 front and lt1 stock back if that would be wise?
I decided to look for some brakes as of now before i run out of money but i was thinkin bout goin ls1 front and lt1 stock back if that would be wise?
Front and Rear Impact bars you speak of, how much weight reduction do those give you?
I would jump on this if i were you
https://ls1tech.com/forums/midwest-c...converter.html
Or wait around for a used 3600. Yank has very good products.
I would jump on this if i were you
https://ls1tech.com/forums/midwest-c...converter.html
Or wait around for a used 3600. Yank has very good products.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...y-updated.html
I have not really weighed all the stuff that i have taken off but I have been going along these lines.
I have pmed that guy for the yank and lets hope things work out i would like that stall on my 94 for now.
I have not really weighed all the stuff that i have taken off but I have been going along these lines.
I have pmed that guy for the yank and lets hope things work out i would like that stall on my 94 for now.
for the budget you have in mind, id keep the 3.42 gears you already have and use the money somewhere else. long tubes and a 3k or higher stall are a definite must and the FIRST things you will need...along with sticky tires.
Sub frames -150 new maybe 100 used
Long tubes + Y - 300 used
2800-3600 stall - 450 used
3.73 gear installed 450
More weight reduction!
so your at 1350 total if you get good deals on used parts.
New ****
PCM tune 125
MT Dr's 400 mounted/balance
cutout 50
you already have a cold air intake, ac delete, other small mods. Use the last 150 on new bolts, broken parts you may find during dis-assmebly, rubber seals, etc.
With a 1.7 60ft and a 3300 lb raceweight it should go mid-low 12's at 108ish
Long tubes + Y - 300 used
2800-3600 stall - 450 used
3.73 gear installed 450
More weight reduction!
so your at 1350 total if you get good deals on used parts.
New ****
PCM tune 125
MT Dr's 400 mounted/balance
cutout 50
you already have a cold air intake, ac delete, other small mods. Use the last 150 on new bolts, broken parts you may find during dis-assmebly, rubber seals, etc.
With a 1.7 60ft and a 3300 lb raceweight it should go mid-low 12's at 108ish
If its a strip only car Id go with a 4000+ stall, Hoosier DRs, Used LTs/ory. Stock springs and shocks work pretty good so leave those alone, used LCAs, PHB, TA, 4.10s and gut the hell out of it.
On The Tree
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From: Tucson, AZ