Building motor... need HELP!!!
Building motor... need HELP!!! Ok so I am a bit of a newb to all of this and I am mostly unsure of how extreme of a build I can go. Originally my goal was 383ci with forged internals(eagle most likely), Patriot heads (because of cost), and a fairly good size cam w/ 1.6 RRs. The car will be a pump gas street/strip car. I was told by a guy at the local speed shop that i couldnt go above 10.5 CR on pump gas but after reading I know this is untrue. I also thought about N20 in the future so if possible I might try to plan that into the build.
What heads should i run?
What cam should i run?
What CR should i look to run?
Keep in mind that my budget isnt infinite since I am a student?
I appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks
What heads should i run?
What cam should i run?
What CR should i look to run?
Keep in mind that my budget isnt infinite since I am a student?
I appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks
Ok so I am a bit of a newb to all of this and I am mostly unsure of how extreme of a build I can go. Originally my goal was 383ci with forged internals(eagle most likely), Patriot heads (because of cost), and a fairly good size cam w/ 1.6 RRs. The car will be a pump gas street/strip car. I was told by a guy at the local speed shop that i couldnt go above 10.5 CR on pump gas but after reading I know this is untrue. I also thought about N20 in the future so if possible I might try to plan that into the build.
What heads should i run?
What cam should i run?
What CR should i look to run?
Keep in mind that my budget isnt infinite since I am a student?
I appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks
What heads should i run?
What cam should i run?
What CR should i look to run?
Keep in mind that my budget isnt infinite since I am a student?
I appreciate any and all feedback.
Thanks
Is there a target ET/RWHP/FWHP goal that you're looking for? Depending on a few things a stroker motor may not be what you need. Additionally, what current modifications do you have (drivetrain, exhaust, intake, etc.) as this will play a major part in your budget. Can't have the motor without the supporting modifications! First off if you add up a budget, then have at least 1/3 to 1/4 more aside for incidentals. Look for "Good Used" parts. I know of one kid that built his entire motor with used parts for a fraction of the cost of new and ran great. Used speed parts go for cheap, Example, My Hooker Long tubes cost me $850.00, I sold them for $250.00 My cam was $325.00, sold for $75.00, Get it...One thing I would shy away from is used injectors, only because they tend to varnish up fast and by the time you send them out to get cleaned and flowed matched, you are not far away from new ones
Ok well heres what im planning to spend on parts:
eagle forged rotating assembly= $1200+
Patriot heads= $1000 heads come assembled
Cam= $350 if i cant find a used one
RRs= $300 Comp cams or Harland Sharp or Comp Cams 1.6s
Timing Chain= $100
Pushrods= $50 used set of trick flows
Oil Pump= $40 Melling
Injectors= idk probably go with 30lbs/hr
Fuel pressure regulator= used one for cheap
eagle forged rotating assembly= $1200+
Patriot heads= $1000 heads come assembled
Cam= $350 if i cant find a used one
RRs= $300 Comp cams or Harland Sharp or Comp Cams 1.6s
Timing Chain= $100
Pushrods= $50 used set of trick flows
Oil Pump= $40 Melling
Injectors= idk probably go with 30lbs/hr
Fuel pressure regulator= used one for cheap
Missing a gasket set unless the eagle kit comes with one
Use a stock fuel pressure regulator
Your rockers are missing guide plates unless you go with S/A + you need to make sure the push rods are the correct length
Missing Tune
Opti?
Water pump?
Machine work for the block?
Putting together the engine?
If the eagle kit is ballanced neutral you need to change to a neutrally ballanced fly or flex plate
Hub for keyed crank or have yours broched
Valve cover modifications
Lifters?
and what ever else you may need as far as oil filter, plugs, wires, coil, ICM, Sensors, and more than likley all radiator and heater hoses unless they are newer.
Use a stock fuel pressure regulator
Your rockers are missing guide plates unless you go with S/A + you need to make sure the push rods are the correct length
Missing Tune
Opti?
Water pump?
Machine work for the block?
Putting together the engine?
If the eagle kit is ballanced neutral you need to change to a neutrally ballanced fly or flex plate
Hub for keyed crank or have yours broched
Valve cover modifications
Lifters?
and what ever else you may need as far as oil filter, plugs, wires, coil, ICM, Sensors, and more than likley all radiator and heater hoses unless they are newer.
Ok yeah i agree with everything buy why stock fuel regulator? I will also be able to do all of my machine work at school as far as boring and honing the only thing i dont know about is the clearancing.
lifters= ls7 lifters
new water pump and opti will be in store thinking about doing the full msd kit
and whats the ICM?
lifters= ls7 lifters
new water pump and opti will be in store thinking about doing the full msd kit
and whats the ICM?
Trending Topics
The patriot heads may be a great head over the stock lt1 head but there are way to many people selling used heads for a great price out there for you to buy those low end heads. you can get a set of like le2 or better heads for around 1000-1500. this is where you should spend a good deal on the heads. Then you can get a cam that matches the heads. Next unless you plan on 600+ rwhp why forged? this adds 2x the price on parts.
You could build a cast botton end with FORGED pistons
Good heads
Mtached cam
and a Nitrous kit and be around 500hp to the ground.
this would save you a ton of money and im sure you would be much better off with the power. a 355 can save you on machine work as well...
Check out www.cnc-motorsports.com great prices and tons of lt1 stuff.... i got almost everything from there
You could build a cast botton end with FORGED pistons
Good heads
Mtached cam
and a Nitrous kit and be around 500hp to the ground.
this would save you a ton of money and im sure you would be much better off with the power. a 355 can save you on machine work as well...
Check out www.cnc-motorsports.com great prices and tons of lt1 stuff.... i got almost everything from there
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo ICM= ignition Control Modual
Stock fuel pressure because any tune done buy most anyone is going to want stock fuel pressure. Changing the fuel pressure throws off so many things in the tune its not funney and it wont make you more power. clearancing isn't hard at all but making sure rods don't smack the cam.... kind of important. I agree with 95z28onjuice. A 355 with the right piston, used AI or LE2 heads and the right cam will make good power. only thing is you would need to get a dyno tune with street testing to get it ***** on.
Stock fuel pressure because any tune done buy most anyone is going to want stock fuel pressure. Changing the fuel pressure throws off so many things in the tune its not funney and it wont make you more power. clearancing isn't hard at all but making sure rods don't smack the cam.... kind of important. I agree with 95z28onjuice. A 355 with the right piston, used AI or LE2 heads and the right cam will make good power. only thing is you would need to get a dyno tune with street testing to get it ***** on.
ICM= ignition Control Modual
Stock fuel pressure because any tune done buy most anyone is going to want stock fuel pressure. Changing the fuel pressure throws off so many things in the tune its not funney and it wont make you more power. clearancing isn't hard at all but making sure rods don't smack the cam.... kind of important. I agree with 95z28onjuice. A 355 with the right piston, used AI or LE2 heads and the right cam will make good power. only thing is you would need to get a dyno tune with street testing to get it ***** on.
Stock fuel pressure because any tune done buy most anyone is going to want stock fuel pressure. Changing the fuel pressure throws off so many things in the tune its not funney and it wont make you more power. clearancing isn't hard at all but making sure rods don't smack the cam.... kind of important. I agree with 95z28onjuice. A 355 with the right piston, used AI or LE2 heads and the right cam will make good power. only thing is you would need to get a dyno tune with street testing to get it ***** on.
I also agree with a budget 355 bottom end and AI or LE heads should make you very happy...
Matt
Ok the rotating assemblys through eagle only come with i beam rods until you go to the forged crank then they come with h beams. Will the i beams be enough they are only rated at 400 or 500 hp?
I agree that you should NOT build a stroker. It would get annihilated by a good running stock shortblock with heads n cam.
You don't have the budget for a properly built stroker
You don't have the budget for a properly built stroker
Ok well I think I'm going to run the forged -5cc flat top pistons either mahle or srp but I don't want to have to piece together a rotating assembly but I want to run the h beams I'm thinking
About A comp cams 280xfi is it too little for afr or ai heads.
About A comp cams 280xfi is it too little for afr or ai heads.
On the cam CALL Lloyd or AI. Have one of them order a custom ground based on the heads. Mahle pistons and I am not sure about No2 on a stock crank and rods so I leave that to gregrob or someone else. He loves spray
you caint even think of a camshaft until your pistons are ordered and head cc size is know so you can figure out the math on a good matched camshaft. your getting way ahead of yourself. get a SCAT FORGED I BEAM ROD WITH A Probe Forged piston and it will allow you to have more money for head and cam choice. Mahle,SRP,and JE are all sick pistons and unless you have 700+ budget for these kinda pistons i would still push you toward a TRW or Probe Forged piston with a scat rod and stock crank, 190 afr or 210 if money lets you. A custom cam for your car.Magunm rockers and harden pushrods.
You would be surprised how strong the stock crank is so that may be an option too so that you can save money and not have to buy a complete rotating assembly...
For what its worth.....We had a set of Eagle SIR rods in a 383 Solid Roller motor that made well over 400hp through a TH400 with unlocked converter and a 12 bolt with 4.10 gears.... We were also spraying it out the hole with a 250 shot...turning 7000 rpms...
the guy that had it before us was spraying it with a 2 stage 400 shot through a 6 speed...
The motor is still running to this day getting abused weekly....motor is at least 5yrs old.....
now I am not saying that SIR are the best thing out there I am just giving a PERSONAL experience want to clear that up before I start getting bashed...
