Just because u cant turn them out with ur fingers doesnt mean they werent loose. The forces these bolts see are enormous, once even one bolt backs off just a little loosing its compression force the load then is passed on to the other three and so on. Failure at that point is only a matter of time. They all have to be TIGHT to do there job. Most manufactures of after market T/A's specifically state in there installation instructions for a 12 bolt that useing lock-tite is no substitute for regularly checking the bolts for this exact reason. If all you lost was mounting bracket consider yourself lucky, buy a replacement bracket, check the bolts regularly and it wont happen again. If you dont want to check bolts regularly you should look into a different type of rearend. This will always be an issue no matter what T/A you use on a Moser 12 bolt if you dont check the bolts.

 

Are the moser centers able to be welded on?

 

soo let me get this right . spohn stuff isnt junk and the o/p just cant admit he did it wrong , or moser stuff has a flaw? just so we all know .
i love how people are quick to blame others for when suttin goes wrong .

 

I've been beating the snot out of my Spohn torque arm (same one in this thread) for 7 years now. Everytime I change the oil I check the tightness of the torque arm bolts. No problems, cracks, etc.

 

The bolts measure around .5 of an inch across the threads, the holes in the arm are way bigger than this, is there a reason they did this?

 

Its because the holes in the torque arm are designed for 14mm or 9/16" bolts, not 1/2".

 

So what can I do about it? I've ran your weld in convertible SFC with no problems for 6 years.

 

We recommend using longer bolts since the torque arm mounts are so much thicker, a 1-1/2" long bolt will help. We then recommend to wire tie the bolts together or tack weld them to the torque arm or check them frequently.

Hope that helps,
Ryan

 

I put some bronze inserts into the plate and had it welded where it cracked.


Already scratched some paint off the bronze bushings

 

Nice! Hope that fixes you up.
I'm a bit concerned, I have a Moser 12 bolt and a UMI adjustable. I should probably check mine, I've had it on about 250 miles now.

 

Yea you should check it, I still have to dig the two bolts out of the top of the rear end. I guess it had to be sliding back in forth cause there is no way my car broke a grade 8 with street tires.

 

Yeah, I'll check it. I'm in the middle of tearing my motor out (again) anyway. IIRC, the bolts in my moser rear fit tight in the holes of my torque arm, so maybe that's the difference between the UMI and Spohn units.
If yours was sliding back and forth, and with good force, it could easily have sheared those bolts, grade 8 or not.
And re-reviewing the pics of the broken off bolts, it looks to be a shear condition.

 

Yes check them or better yet get some longer bolts and replace them. 1/2-13 thread grade 8 and 1-1/2" long would be good.

Hope that helps,
Ryan