LT1-TA

the heads and intake dont match well at all from the factory but since he was thinking of a le package it might be a good idea to have intake done as well if budjet allows,im sure le or ai will give him the best advice if that is the direction he wants to go.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

By the time you are done with a COMPLETE heads and cam swap you need to add at least another grand to your proposed budget. Rockers, gaskets, fasteners, fluids, pushrods, maybe a new oilpump driveshaft and pressure spring, LOTS more than just the package listed on a website.

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

So for a DD, that has ***** and is pushing around 350rwhp, should I just go with the hotcam KIT, and have my stock heads ported and polished?

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

Or would the LE1 BUDGET heads work with the hotcam.

LT1-TA

IMO i think the hotcam kit will work well for your goals and budget,may not quite hit 350whp but close with all the supporting mods i would think.if you wanted to rebuild the bottom end really cheap you could re ring pistons and replace bearings as long as clearances are good.i am not a big fan of reringing pistons cause they take alot of abuse though.i probably would use the $ you want to spend on porting and polishing on more essential stuff like decking the heads and a valve job arp bolts ect.,dont need to port them for a hotcam ,obviously it wouldnt hurt to port them but since your on a tight budget i would definetly use that money on stuff that will ensure it will stay together and be reliable.

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

So what do you recommend I do to ensure a reliable dam set up/motor?

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

350whp isn't possible , is that with or without a dyno tune?

LT1-TA

unported i would guestimate between 330-350rwhp,it will probably cost around 1,000 for just the cam swap but with the hotcam ur bottom end should hold up.This is my opinion on what to do but it really depends on what you want and your budget.I would rather have a lower hp car that is strong and reliable then a high hp car that can blow anytime just my .02 i spent just over 1700. on my shortblock and that was for hyper. pistons which are similaer to stock,new bearings bolts, machine work and assembly.you have to factor in all the added expenses like gaskets,timing chain,clutch,tune ect.also are you doing the work or is it going to a shop?

LT1-TA

i am by far no expert but i do know some and have personal experience.i have about 3500 in my motor and it isnt even anything special,just a rebuilt and reliable 355 with a hotcam and a good valve job and other misc. stuff.ill have it done in a few weeks then have it tuned with the stock tb and intake and ill let u know what it makes.i have a used edelbrock intake that i got and im going to put a 52mm tb on it at a later time due to the fact i had to aquire a fuel rail cause mine is a 93 and i have to get longer fuel lines to run the edelbrock intake(which i do not have high hopes for).

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

So should I buy new pistons and bearings? Or will it hold up with the hotcam?

LarsV8

Speedfreak

I would locate a reliable machine shop first and have him spec out the rebuild parts. A stocker itself can handle a decent amount of power. You seem to have price and reliability as a high priority and I personally think the hot cam kit makes sense for you. Yea, its a little outdated but its a good value for everything you get.

Speaking from experience I started out with similar goals and ended up going with a le2 package. I have easily tripled my original budget and while I'm sure it will be powerful I don't expect a super reliable car.

I think with bolt ons, hot cam kit, and a tune you could hit your goal of 350 rwhp or atleast close.

LT1-TA

if your bottom end doesnt burn oil or knock it should hold up,it will hold up as good with the hotcam in it as the stock cam so if you run it and end up with problems later on mostl ikely it will be due to normal wear and tear of a motor that has 158k.

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

Ok, so it looks like after all I am going with the hot cam kit. So I am still lost on whether to get new pistons and bearings, or leave the bottom end stock?

After I purchase the hot cam kit, what else should be purchased? Hardened pushrods, anything like that?

LT1-TA

how much do u plan to spend total and are you doing the work or is it going to a shop?

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

Well Guys, my car does leak oil, and it seems to be getting worse every other day.... I assume it is coming from the timing chain cover gasket (Will replace when i do cam install)...

I figured I might as well Re-ring the pistons, and put new bearings in the motor...

Will these work...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-RRKIT1-000/

and...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-1235M/

I also thought about it, if i am going to re-ring/add new bearings, i might as well put more power to it...

With the LE1 Heads and LE 223/230 Largest emissions friendly cam....

Good power, and reliable motor after the re-ring/bearings....

Whatcha think...

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

Also, do I have to send Lloyd MY heads, or does he use other sets, and then when I recieve them, i send mine to him...?

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

You have to send him your heads. Say if the heads are warped or cracked then he will send them back to you depending on how bad they are warped or whatever. Also I personally wouldnt re-ring your motor if i wasnt boring and honing it. If you plan on rebuilding your bottom end figure polishing the crank and boring and honing the cylinders then you need an oversize piston. And you will also need new bearings and gaskets too. You are talking several hundred dollars in machine work alone which will eat up your budget very quickly. Also do you plan on assembling the motor yourself or having somebody do it. Expect to spend a fair amount to have somebody assemble your bottom end. And you still havent made power. So figure out what your budget is first before you decide. Also maybe find a used set of RR's maybe even a used cam. Remember its your motor do what YOU want.

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

toss new bearings in her,new rings,oil pump,rod bolts and call it a day..

you dont need new pistons for 350rwhp you dont need a new crank or new rods..have all it checked though when you tear the motor down..most i would do if all was good was toss some rod bolts in it seeing them are the weakest link

cam it with a cam in the 220/230 dur range around .550 lift

run a thin shim style gasket,.015 or.026 to bump compression up.,elec water pump,ditch the b.s you dont need..long tube headers and a tune an you will be at or near your goal..

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

toss new bearings in her,new rings,oil pump,rod bolts and call it a day..

you dont need new pistons for 350rwhp you dont need a new crank or new rods..have all it checked though when you tear the motor down..most i would do if all was good was toss some rod bolts in it seeing them are the weakest link

cam it with a cam in the 220/230 dur range around .550 lift

run a thin shim style gasket,.015 or.026 to bump compression up.,elec water pump,ditch the b.s you dont need..long tube headers and a tune an you will be at or near your goal..

SpeedFreak123

iTrader: (17)

Would i be better buying a used Shortblock with lower miles?

Suicidalracing- How is the price on those headers looking? Pm me if you want to.