Do you usually re torque head bolts?
What I did with the one head was, after going 15/25/45/75, I backed all the bolts up a bit and re torqed them. The angle did increase after I did this.
My question is, when I get my hands on a REAL torque wrench, should I just check the bolts by tightening them, or backoff and re tighten again? Note that I only have one head on so far and I used the ARP Ultra thread sealer.
Will this fatigue the ARP bolts?
The bolts won't fatigue. They can be used over and over again.
I dunno. I've had the same Craftsman 1/2" and 3/8" drive torque wrenches for the last 11 years and they work perfectly, and as stated, ARP bolts will not fatigue. I'm using the same ones that I bought like 6 years and a-half-dozen-times-the-heads-have-been-off-the-block- ago.
I'll have to find the article for the rationale behind the whole thing.
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1. Retorquing is typically done to compensate for the head gasket taking a set, usually after running & heat cycling.
2. Typically it is best to retorque bolts when they are new. This actually smooths out the threads whch can result in a slight additional movement as you noted, due to less thread friction. Many bolt manufacturers recommend retorquing on new critical fasteners. I always do on my engine builds.
3. When you retorque, only loosen 1 bolt at a time & retorque it in 3 steps as recommended. Do not loosen all & retighten.
As for you retorquing the heads, it would not be a bad idea if this is a high HP application (forced induction or nitrous) Typically I never see any head gasket failures on normally aspirated vehicles, other than high mileage stock motors.
As an FYI, I only typically see the long head bolts change position during a retorque. The short ones do not seem to change as much.
Now, a set of ARP Stainless Steel head bolts, those can be reused and re-torqued, no problem.
I wonder how this ever got started anyway. Someone posted it or said it and others just picked up on it and ran with it?
Jake
As for the LT1, the 92-95 states a specific torque value.
Some of the specs for the 96-97 manuals state 22ftlb plus 80deg on long & 67deg on short. This is torque to yield.....
If you have a 96 up car I would never reuse the bolts. Personally I also question reuse on the earlier cars, as I do not know the method for installation at the factory.....
This is where the myth or FACT came from.
As for the LT1, the 92-95 states a specific torque value.
Some of the specs for the 96-97 manuals state 22ftlb plus 80deg on long & 67deg on short. This is torque to yield.....
If you have a 96 up car I would never reuse the bolts. Personally I also question reuse on the earlier cars, as I do not know the method for installation at the factory.....
This is where the myth or FACT came from.
The torque/angle method is a more precise way of tightening a fastener that helps negate friction errors. A TTY bolt must always use the torque/angle method, but a normal bolt can use either (if both methods are supplied). The torque/angle method has been used in industrial applications for many years.
TTY bolts have been used for years on European cars, but more recently on American made cars. Those are the ones that should not be re-used. Like so many other thngs, though, where guys deviate from what's recommended, there are some who claim TTY bolts, too, can be reused, but I definitely wouldn't.
Jake









