LT1 Build
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (60)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, Florida
LT1 Build Ok so my heads and cam are picked out. LE2 heads with the 230/234 .592/.592 111 LSA cam he sales. Going to get a nitrous plate kit from nitrous outlet for a 150 wet shot. Also getting a Yank SS3200 converter. Pacesetter Long Tube Race Headers.
I am going to rebuild the whole motor. Wanting to turn the crank and go with all ARP bolts in the bottom end.
Which bearings?
Lifters?
Pushrods(length and which kind?)
Rockers?
Pistons and Rings?
Do I need new Injectors?
Just wanting to start getting parts ordered.
Thanks. Add anything i may have missed as well.
I am going to rebuild the whole motor. Wanting to turn the crank and go with all ARP bolts in the bottom end.
Which bearings?
Lifters?
Pushrods(length and which kind?)
Rockers?
Pistons and Rings?
Do I need new Injectors?
Just wanting to start getting parts ordered.
Thanks. Add anything i may have missed as well.
You haven't mentioned what rocker ratio and if its going to be NSA or SA.
If your going NSA
ARP 7/16 rocker arm stud
Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6rr
Trick Flow guideplate
Trick Flow chromemoly pushrods work good.
LS7 lifters are affordable and work good.
If your going NSA
ARP 7/16 rocker arm stud
Ultra Pro Magnum 1.6rr
Trick Flow guideplate
Trick Flow chromemoly pushrods work good.
LS7 lifters are affordable and work good.
NSA = None Self Align rockers (you need to run guideplates and harden pushrod)
SA = Self Align rockers (no guideplates)
With your cam selection go with NSA.
SA = Self Align rockers (no guideplates)
With your cam selection go with NSA.
Last edited by LT1; Nov 6, 2010 at 07:46 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (60)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, Florida
Ok. yea I am just weighing my options. I think I want to run diamond pistons. I need to go ahead and pull the motor and get it to a machine shop. It currently has 183k on it and before it goes in my car I want it rebuilt. Should I bore it or just hone it if possible?
Non self aligning, self aligning is what hes talking about.
As for the bottom end:
Buy forged i beams, they are 300 bux, and by the time you get ARP bolts and re condition the stock ones your at 175ish. replace em, it wont cost much more.
use the rings, bearings, freeze plugs, etc etc the machine shop uses. do a 353 or 355. I went speedpro for pistons and moly rings but you could use probe, mahle, SRP, speedpro, etc. Lots of options.
Gap the rings a little looser than stock, n2o is like crack. The 150 will turn into a 175 than 200, into a DP kit. you will be glad later on.
I would get a 36,37,39,42 injector. I listed a lot cuz different companies make them 1 or 2 lb bigger or smaller. Go with to racetronix.com for them, they know fuel systems.
Get a melling 10554 oil pump from summit, dont run a HV oil pump. Maybe do the spring mod.
for with a 3600-3800 stall, ask Llyod but i think a 3200 is kinda small for a built motor. Guys run them on bolton setups, yours is going to be 400rwhp+
use LT1's advice for the valvetrain
I would rec something like what i am building right now
357, stock crank, scat 5.7 i beams, speedpro slugs little looser ring gap, ARP mains studs, canton 5qt pan, melling 10554 oil pump, balanced.
As for the bottom end:
Buy forged i beams, they are 300 bux, and by the time you get ARP bolts and re condition the stock ones your at 175ish. replace em, it wont cost much more.
use the rings, bearings, freeze plugs, etc etc the machine shop uses. do a 353 or 355. I went speedpro for pistons and moly rings but you could use probe, mahle, SRP, speedpro, etc. Lots of options.
Gap the rings a little looser than stock, n2o is like crack. The 150 will turn into a 175 than 200, into a DP kit. you will be glad later on.
I would get a 36,37,39,42 injector. I listed a lot cuz different companies make them 1 or 2 lb bigger or smaller. Go with to racetronix.com for them, they know fuel systems.
Get a melling 10554 oil pump from summit, dont run a HV oil pump. Maybe do the spring mod.
for with a 3600-3800 stall, ask Llyod but i think a 3200 is kinda small for a built motor. Guys run them on bolton setups, yours is going to be 400rwhp+
use LT1's advice for the valvetrain
I would rec something like what i am building right now
357, stock crank, scat 5.7 i beams, speedpro slugs little looser ring gap, ARP mains studs, canton 5qt pan, melling 10554 oil pump, balanced.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (60)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, Florida
Non self aligning, self aligning is what hes talking about.
As for the bottom end:
Buy forged i beams, they are 300 bux, and by the time you get ARP bolts and re condition the stock ones your at 175ish. replace em, it wont cost much more.
use the rings, bearings, freeze plugs, etc etc the machine shop uses. do a 353 or 355. I went speedpro for pistons and moly rings but you could use probe, mahle, SRP, speedpro, etc. Lots of options.
I would rec something like what i am building right now
357, stock crank, scat 5.7 i beams, speedpro slugs little looser ring gap, ARP mains studs, canton 5qt pan, melling 10554 oil pump, balanced.
As for the bottom end:
Buy forged i beams, they are 300 bux, and by the time you get ARP bolts and re condition the stock ones your at 175ish. replace em, it wont cost much more.
use the rings, bearings, freeze plugs, etc etc the machine shop uses. do a 353 or 355. I went speedpro for pistons and moly rings but you could use probe, mahle, SRP, speedpro, etc. Lots of options.
I would rec something like what i am building right now
357, stock crank, scat 5.7 i beams, speedpro slugs little looser ring gap, ARP mains studs, canton 5qt pan, melling 10554 oil pump, balanced.
Where did u get your forged I beams? Also for pistons. Where did you get yours? Should I get this stuff from my machine shop or order it and bring it to them?
Trending Topics
TECH Regular
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
A fuel pump is a must as well. dont forget gaskets as well, thunder racing sells entire gasket kits for your build. get a new timing chain set. Lloyd usually recomends the caprice head gaskets cause they add a bit more compression, but double check with him first, as he may suggest something else for your setup. Replace your lifters while your in there. ARP stud kit for sure. Be ready to replace the opti if your not carefull while pulling the water pump. Take the time to protect the **** out of the opti. Antifreeze will KILL it. If your getting a hi flow or hi volume oil pump, you should get a larger oil pan, in which case you need the tubular k-member. If you cant spend the money for all that, I recomend using a new stock oil pump.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
u can pick up set of ford svo 30lb injectors for little over $200. scat i beams and speed pro pistons work for me.. I got all my stuff from summit. Also summit will price match any1. So do little research and save little $.. U need atleast 3600 stall.
my canton 5qt fits with stock k member. All my parts came from the builder. He beat summit racings pricing by 30%.
I dropped off my completely fucked stock shortblock, crank, pistion/rods all done for.
It had to go 40 over, I got the forged speedpro's, moly rings, forged scat 5.7 i beams, 20 over stock crank, ARP main studs,melling 10554 oil pump, balancing, assembly. ~$2450 and i had everything done to the block you would want. oh and the heads milled .010 think i forgot a thing here or there.
I dropped off my completely fucked stock shortblock, crank, pistion/rods all done for.
It had to go 40 over, I got the forged speedpro's, moly rings, forged scat 5.7 i beams, 20 over stock crank, ARP main studs,melling 10554 oil pump, balancing, assembly. ~$2450 and i had everything done to the block you would want. oh and the heads milled .010 think i forgot a thing here or there.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (60)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 849
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, Florida
little update. May even go with LE3 heads and a LE3 cam(waiting to hear back from someone on the specs) and a LE ported intake. Where are ya'll purchasing the ls7 lifters from? I am just making a parts list. i am gonna let a machine shop put together the short block.
im not 90% sure that the le3 valves are to big for those speed pro pistons.. im pretty sure u can only run 2.02 1.60 valves.. I bought my ls7 lifters for summit.. Call llyod and talk to him.. He will cut u a cam on wat ur plans r for the car.. He go real good customers service
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Philly
I went .30 over with (I belive telfon) coated skirt speedpro pistons, hellfire rings (recomended by the machine shop), eagle i-beams and stock crank with H-series bearings. All parts minus the rings are from summitracing.
This bottom end is for my single turbo Impala.
This bottom end is for my single turbo Impala.
If you have talked to LE about head and cam he will also tell you about the other parts needed as well, Just ask him
Ok so my heads and cam are picked out. LE2 heads with the 230/234 .592/.592 111 LSA cam he sales. Going to get a nitrous plate kit from nitrous outlet for a 150 wet shot. Also getting a Yank SS3200 converter. Pacesetter Long Tube Race Headers.
I am going to rebuild the whole motor. Wanting to turn the crank and go with all ARP bolts in the bottom end.
Which bearings?
Lifters?
Pushrods(length and which kind?)
Rockers?
Pistons and Rings?
Do I need new Injectors?
Just wanting to start getting parts ordered.
Thanks. Add anything i may have missed as well.
I am going to rebuild the whole motor. Wanting to turn the crank and go with all ARP bolts in the bottom end.
Which bearings?
Lifters?
Pushrods(length and which kind?)
Rockers?
Pistons and Rings?
Do I need new Injectors?
Just wanting to start getting parts ordered.
Thanks. Add anything i may have missed as well.
I talked to LE probably 3 weeks ago and im planning to build a 355 with the LE2 heads and an LE cam and he recommended either a yank or vigilante with a 3600 stall. Speed Inc is running a deal on the yanks for 675 right now so maybe you could save a little money there. I planned to run NSA RR's with 7/16 ARP studs. I was going to run either mahle or srp forged pistons and the forged scat i beams as well.
