I've got an 88 S10 blazer that's getting some sort of V8 engine in the near future. I'd like an LS1 but the prices on those things kind of put those out of reach. I've considered the iron block Vortec LS based engines but I'm sure it would cost quite a bit more than an LT by the time I got all the accessories and wiring from a junkyard truck.

I think I'm going to stick with a LT1, I can find cheap Roadmasters all day long and I'd get all of the accessories and wiring that way. As long as I've got all the wiring I know I can patch it together!

I've heard a lot about one and two piece seals, are there any advantages/disadvantages of each? I've also read a little bit about speed density VS. MAF & Sequential port injection and I'm thinking MAF would be the better way to go right? (All of the LT1 cars switched to MAF/SPI in 94 right?)

I'm also going to rebuild any engine before I shove it in the Blazer and I'm somewhat considering a 383 depending on what all needs to be replaced in the engine I find. I've found a few 383 kits on ebay and the fact that they are on ebay already has me skeptical! Here's one of the "kits" I'm talking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eagle...Q5fAccessories

If the above kit is any good I'd like to try to run the flat top pistons with 58cc chambers, around 11.5:1. I've heard that the reverse cooling on a LT1 makes that possible on high octane pump gas but I've heard that 11:1+ is too much. Is there any general rule on how much is too much or should I just stick with a lower ratio?

I've found a set of heads that I think might work alright, the price is good at least. (The heads are the bottleneck of an LT1 right?)
https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=91&page=1

I'm still not sure what sort of cam I want to run, I want the car to be highly streetable but it might see the track every now and then. Would the LT4 cam be a good choice or could I go a little further without sacrificing street driveability?

I've heard horror stories about the optispark system, but nothing in extreme detail. Are the stories true or just over exaggerated? Are there any ways to go about replacing the optispark system with anything a little more reliable?

I've probably got a few more things to research first, but I'd like as many opinions as I can get on my plans before I start gathering up parts. Hopefully I don't sound like the complete noob I am!

Thanks!

 

383 and LT4 Hotcam should not be used in the same sentence. I have to ask... if you are going to spend all the extra $$ on aftermarket parts for the LT1, why not just start with an LS1??

 

^ This.

 

An LS1 swap would be a more streetable system, once you start to get wild with an LT1, you have to replace many of the stock systems.

 

Your plan is horrible. That rotating assembly is a good bit WEAKER than stock, those heads are garbage and the LT4 is as covered a really poor choice.

The opti horror stories are a combination of exaggeration and gross incompetence.

Honestly you would be better off to use a completely stock motor and swap the cam and springs than the plan you have. Have to be aware the aftermarket cam rpm ranges are usually WAY off for an LT1.

Not the answer you want but is the right answer.

Far as compression a LOT of us have run over 11:1 on stock shortblocks, works great.

 

Fair enough, can I ask why?

The main reasoning was the availability factor, like I said I can probably get paid to pull the LT1 and wiring harness from a roadmaster. Someone I know just found one for 400 bucks, pulled all the wiring and engine/tranny, sold the cat and tranny and scrapped the body for 400 bucks. So in the end he made money to use a LT1. Sure it's still got to be rebuilt, but all of the LS1's I can find are 2 grand just for the engine, then machine work on top of that, then I'd have to find some way to wire the damn thing up without ever seeing the way the thing was wired originally. By the time I did all of the machine work and added most of the parts I listed I'd still probably be cheaper than an LS1 and I'd have a lot more engine.

See Above ^

Thanks for the info Fex, I'm not terribly worried about gas mileage. Somewhere around 10-12mpg would be fine for me. I've still got a DD to drive any great distances. I know a LS1 would probably be a better choice, but for the cost I still think I'd get more engine for my money with a LT1. What stock systems are you talking about replacing?

Ok, so the rotating assembly is weak. Are you saying that because the stuff is cheap, because I had a strong suspicion that was the case.

What exactly about the heads make them garbage? I'm assuming you're also calling the LT4 cam garbage when you say "and the LT4 is as covered a really poor choice."

I figured the horror stories about optispark and reverse cooling were mostly untrue, I still see lots of LT Camaros and Firebirds driving around, it must work in some way.

When you say the aftermarket RPM ranges are way off is it usually in a certain direction or is it all over the board?

I know the answers I'm looking for might not be what I wanted to hear but it's why I asked. Id like to cover all of the bases before I get into anything too deep. It just seems like a waste to me to get a block rebuilt and not stroke it in the process.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

 

That rotating assembly is crap. Search on here for broken eagle cast cranks. They get ugly. Depending on the year the 95-up if im correct have powdered metal rods. Good for about 500hp. Ive personally seen a stock crank take a progressively controled 300hp shot of spray on it. Im running the gm847 cam and is a great street grind for a nicely stalled auto. Spend your money on the stock aluminum castings. Ported they will out flow that patriot crap. The flow numbers on those have been doctored up. they flow about 240cfm out the box. Pretty sure someone on here posted a flow chart on them not horribly long ago. The le1 package is a great budget package. Or even AI 190cc. The lt4 cam is very weak. Not a great performance choice seen way too many of them on the dyno not even make 340hp to the wheels with trick flow heads. Raise your compression to around 12:0. It will run fine on premium with a good mail order tune. Reverse flow cooling is the way to go. Praise gm for that. Thats why we can get away with higher compression ratios on pump fuel. Alot of us have gone to speed density because its easier to tune and ive found my self the car has less hiccups.

Id do the lt1 because i love the face the ls guys give ya when you blow there doors off with the lt-none dinosaur!!!

 

A strong 355 rebuild with LE2 H/C/I would be a good start...I would also go with the EFI 24X system (http://www.eficonnection.com/eficonnection/24x.aspx) that way you have a new wiring harness and all the benefits of the ls ignition system...

 

Well a clayton shortblock looks to be a good deal, and it isn't really that much more expensive than having a machinist do it. A ported set of stockers, and at least a LE2 would give a decent combination. It really depends on what you are looking for, you will have to replace injectors and probably the pump. Sometimes the IAC and TPS can give you problems with the larger TB's. Some people replace the entire ignition system.

 

LT4 Hotcam is a baby cam. It's just outdated and there are much better alternatives. The Hotcam is a good choice for someone on an extreme budget who has a stock motor daily driver and wants a little kick in power, and doesnt want to take any time to research.

I'm not trying to sway you from the LT1, it's my motor of choice, its just that it seemed you were going against your own reasoning. I have seen several running LS1 pullouts complete in the $1200-$1500 range. And I dont see a reason you would have to get machine work done or rebuild it.

If you are looking at a set of heads and a cam for the LT1, you should look at Advanced Induction and Lloyd Elliot.

Also, the Optispark is fine, no reason to ditch it with what your plans are. It's a maintenance item just like any other distributor, cap and rotor replacement should be done. I admit that behind the water pump and close to the ground is not the best location for the Opti because of the possibility of coolant seepage and water splashing up from the road. Also wouldn't go through a car wash with the underbody sprayer. But because of the location, its easiest to just replace the whole unit while you're in there. The 95+ opti system is a better choice as it is vented and helps to keep down the moisture inside. If you were to get a replacement just remember to go GM/ACDelco and stay away from Accel and no-name brands.

Take a look at the sticky at the top of the LT1/LT4 section titled "LT1 Camshaft/Valve Train Selection Guide."

 

with the amount of money you plan on spending for a forged 383 u could get a ls1 swap, cam it, and it would be just as good, trust me ive been there and done that. lt1s to me were great for there time, but the ls series has just made them hated,
for the amount of money you plan on spending youll be better off going ls1, machine work isnt cheap.

 

the reason the cams that are out there dont fit the powerband is bc the stock style lt1/lt4 heads are junk. unless you have loydd or ai port them, most cams are just too big for the heads

 

Don't forget you could also go 5.3/6.0 truck motor. I've seen 5.3's in the $300-$400 range.

 

The LT1 intake runners are VERY short, that shifts the necessary rpm needed for a given cam up in the rpm range a good bit. Gen 1 engines tend to have long intake runners which comparatively lowers the necessary rpm range.

The rpm range issue also tends to screw up the spring recommendations, need more spring to handle the extra rpm.

 

yes ill give you that....the runners are made to rev high vs tpi runners for torque. but the heads are junk for anything in the higher rpm range compared to ls engines

 

Compared to gen 1 engines though they are good.

 

Thanks for the advice everyone, I'm still not 100% decided on what I'm going to do (I know I won't be going with the eagle stroker kit though, I figured a $600 complete rotating assembly had to be crap. Wishful thinking, I guess.)

I'm strongly considering a 5.3 swap now, I guess those engines can be pretty potent and they're cheap. I really wanted a whole car so I could see everything in it's 'Before' setup but I think I could handle a blind swap, if you could call it that. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a super cheap L33

I actually work at a machine shop, just not an engine machine shop (Damn!) So I'll be able to make almost anything I need to get almost anything to fit in a blazer.

If anyone knows anyone with a 5.3 or even a 6.0 with the wiring harness hit me up!

Thanks again guys!

 

your best bet is looking at the classified section in this forum. tons of good deals on shortblocks & you could through an le1 or le2 kit on it and have something that would really move. You aren't going to be able to build a motor for anywhere near the price that they are going on here. You are going to have to be concerned if you go with an LT1 b/c the reverse cooling will require a special radiator (don't know if a stock camaro one will fit in your application).

An Lt1 would also be easier to bolt in & require less fab (cept for the radiator thing) b/c they have provisions on them for both traditional small block motor mounts as well as 4th gen motor mounts (ls engines only have the new style 4 gen motor motor mount provisions). I know there are a bunch of s-10 small block conversion kits out there and would imagine that getting one of those would do the trick.

 

also in a blazer you aren't going to need very much power to really make the thing move. Going too radical & you could start twisting the crap out of the body & frame.

 

I would think a S10 blazer with a V8 is going to weigh pretty close to an f-body and seeing as it actually HAS A FRAME concerns about twisting it up are pointless. If an f-body can get by as a spot welded soda can the Blazer is WAY ahead of that with an actual frame.