Crank hub
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Crank hub In need of some help here with the crank hub. Some background on the car; 96 Formula A4 bought it for 680 with no rear end and multiple other things. I got it in a no start condition and had to get a new opti when doing so I noticed the crank pulley and hub where off and i recently decided to put the hub back in. I first noticed that the hub seemed to be pretty rough here are some pics.
It seems like if someone hacked it up pretty good and the hole in the middle seems kinda oval instead of a circle. Wondering what i can do from here? I got another hub and pulley from a 95 Camaro and wondering if i can go that route?
It seems like if someone hacked it up pretty good and the hole in the middle seems kinda oval instead of a circle. Wondering what i can do from here? I got another hub and pulley from a 95 Camaro and wondering if i can go that route?
how the hell do you do that? Makes me wonder what the crank itself is like, does the bolt even thread into the end of the crank? Looks like a hammer was involved, I hope the major beatdown took place after it was off the car, which in that case is beleiveable lol.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Lebanon TN
^ this. Check to make sure the threads in the crank snout are good. I have jacked them up just turning the motor over with that bolt w/out a spacer. Now i have a BBC crank snout. not fun to take a newly assembled motor apart so you can take the crank to the machine shop lol.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 323
Likes: 2
From: NW AR
I think I got a spare one laying around. The reason that hub looks like that is because the stock hubs are pressed onto the snout of the crankshaft. To get it off you need to put a bolt that is smaller than the actual crank snout bolt. Then you use a gear puller or a hub puller and push against the undersized bolt to pull the hub off.
What they did is put a gear puller in there, and proceeded to impact it until they started to bend the tabs. Then they finally realized that messed something up, and then used the above method.
Get a new hub, if you can wait a week and will pay shipping I have that spare one. The reason I don't need it is because I run a aftermarket crank with a keyway for my ATI superdamper. Actually I know LT1 Corvette crankshafts have a keyway in them from the factory, which I don't know why. Also inspect that crankshaft snout.
What they did is put a gear puller in there, and proceeded to impact it until they started to bend the tabs. Then they finally realized that messed something up, and then used the above method.
Get a new hub, if you can wait a week and will pay shipping I have that spare one. The reason I don't need it is because I run a aftermarket crank with a keyway for my ATI superdamper. Actually I know LT1 Corvette crankshafts have a keyway in them from the factory, which I don't know why. Also inspect that crankshaft snout.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 148
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Noice thats a good guess at what happened cuz i know the guy i bought it off of was an ls1 owner and he didnt know much about lt1's. I got a hub but from a 95 Camaro would that work? I cant spend anymore money till bout a month from now? Also what size bolt can i use to check the thread?
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 323
Likes: 2
From: NW AR
Can he machine it down so that it doesn't touch the reluctor wheel? As long as it gets past the lip seal on the timing cover but doesn't press against the reluctor wheel it should be okay. As for the bolt, a Chevy SB harmonic damper bolt will work just fine, it is a 7/16"-20 thread and 2-1/2" long.
If it were me, I'd just sand it down, because I have a sanding table and a mill at my disposal. If you choose that route, just measure in a tenth of an inch and mark a ring around it, then grind/sand away.
Doesn't matter either way.
Doesn't matter either way.
