Seems my timing cover gasket is leaking like a son of a bitch...a quart every 3 days or so. How difficult is it going to be to get to it, since I've gotta pull the waterpump, opti and all that.

I'm going to be replacing my clutch, rear suspension, and heater core during the next week and might end up doing this to.

If I decide against doing it, (I've only got a week of free time, and very very low budget), how bad would it be to use that cheap gasket maker stuff, and just coat around the outside of the cover? At least for a temporary fix.

 

It is not too terrible.....

Pull the water pump and opti off take off the crank hub and then pull the bolts off for the timing cover and remove it...

Then the worst parts.. take the bolts out of the oil pan except for the back two so that you can let the pan hang some...

Clean your surface and put on the new gasket....put the timing cover back on and I apply a light coat of RTV to the oil pan gasket where it meets the timing cover and reverse the process...I use a little torque wrench too just to be safe...

Matt

 

Should I go ahead and replace the oil pan gasket while I'm at it?

 

depends on if it really needs to be replaced and if you want to spend the extra time taking the pan off. some ppl struggle with it some dont.

 

I used the "right stuff" on my old pan gasket and on the timing cover where it meets the pan. Heard it works good. Otherwise you might have to raise the motor to replace with a new. **** that!

 

I thought the general rule was to replace any gasket that has been relased

 

That's they way I was taught......However, if yor car has one of the "reusable" oil pan gaskets, you might be able to get away with just loosening the bolts enough to allow the timing cover to slip out.

To the OP... If you decide to tackle this job, be forewarned that the water pump drive shaft seal is VERY delicate, and easy to damage, when putting the front cover back on. Make sure to slip a "Sharpie" cap over the drive shaft, so the splines don't chew up the seal, or you'll still have an oil leak to swear at!!

Also, when putting things back on, the water pump drive seal is teflon, as well as the opti seal. They DON'T get "pre-lubed", but the crank seal does need a little motor oil on it, to keep it slippery for the initial fire-up...

 

The sharpie trick absolutely works. Ripped on my first try before I used this method.