Injectors are 42lbs, and yes there is a nitrous kit(250 tb plate) but we havent turned it on yet due to the issue at hand. As I stated previously, the tuner has pulled parts out and put them back on to see where the weak spot is. We've swapped springs, disconnected the ignition box, changed optis, added bigger fuel pump. Im gonna check the spark gap and the rev limiter on the ign box. As far as the haters go, Im not going to get into a pissing contest here, I realize some people are just ******** by nature. I know that i have invested good money on quality parts there just happens yo be a glitch somewhere. Even the tuner/builder is a good guy with quality skills, he's just a little brain screwed with this issue, it's probably something so minor that its being overlooked in search of bigger possibilities. Im grateful for all the help guys. Btw, heres a pic of the car

 

I'm just wondering what your duty cycle on the injectors is. 42# injectors should get you to about 550 HP.

 

You know you aren't the first person to report a problem with that shop...I'd suggest taking it somewhere else if possible.

 

Bu looks bad ***!! Hope you get your issue figured out. Prob something stupid like the coil, ICM or TPS. Also double /triple check all your grounds.

 

Thanks for compliment. As for the duty cycle of the injectors, I can tell you that they are sending the gas to the cylinders, I'm wondering if I need to run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and dial it down some due to the car being extremely hard to start after sitting over nite, maybe dumping too much fuel. In regard to the shop, I'm kind of stuck between a rock and hard spot just because I've spent good money and I'm looking for the proper results without having to run a new tab elsewhere.

 

SWEET car.

Can we please share the tuner now?

 

[QUOTE=deuce4935;14307900]Thanks for compliment. As for the duty cycle of the injectors, I can tell you that they are sending the gas to the cylinders, I'm wondering if I need to run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and dial it down some due to the car being extremely hard to start after sitting over nite, maybe dumping too much fuel. In regard to the shop, I'm kind of stuck between a rock and hard spot just because I've spent good money and I'm looking for the proper results without having to run a new tab elsewhere.QUOTE]

Its so hard to help diagnose stuff online...If you're A/F ratio is good up until the issue I'd vote against a fueling issue. This is all assuming that the tuner checked fuel pressure at idle and WOT during the run and had a wideband to read the A/F..To tune it properly you have to get that right. I'm leaning more towards an ignition issue like I suggested a few posts ago. My car was a bitch to start initially and when I pulled the plugs I discovered that the shop who did my header install and did a plug change gapped the plugs at .060"! I changed the plugs, gapped em at .035" and it was like a whole different car. I learned a lesson about not doing everything myself. I got lazy and paid for it.

Check the basics first. Plug gap is critical, the MSD opti could be suspect. You may wanna dig up an AC Delco opti or a known good functioning opti, and swap it out to eliminate that as a variable. Bypass any after market ignition boxes. I had an Accel 300 box many years ago and when it failed it did some weird stuff at higher rpms. Check and recheck all wiring, grounds, etc. I dunno who your tuner is so I can't pass judgement. Good luck again..

--Alan

 

Does this shop have much experience with LT1 (gen3) engines? As we all know here, it has it's oddities and should be worked on (to this extent) by a seasoned LT1 guy.

Did you do any pulls with a fuel pressure gauge attached to make sure the pressure isn't nosing over? Tell us more about the PCM. Are you getting any codes? And by that I mean, scan it as not all codes will illuminate the SES bulb.

 

I'll scan it for codes tomorrow at my uncles shop. I wasnt there for the tuning session as they had the car for close to 2 yrs completing the build. I just pulled a plug and the gap is set at 30 but the plugs are black as dirt so theres definitely appears to be too much fuel being dumped and not enough spark. As far as the shops experience goes with lt1's, they have built some very nice force inducted lt1 cars that have made the magazines, but I must admit that while my car has been in their shop, I've seen more Gen3&4 vehicles come and go.

 

WOW they had it for two years. Paid your bill slowly, eh?

Of course, as the LT1 went out to pasture fourteen years ago, you'll see less and less of them every day. LSanything is where it's at today, certainly from a business point of view.

 

No I didnt pay my bill slowly, as a matter of fact I paid for each installed part up front and the labor after the part was installed as to keep them from billing hour to hour. It's just entirely too frustrating to even take the time to explain all the bullshit that has gone on with this build, and even more so when the shop is recommending part after part and still not getting the car operating correctly. I know I'm no automotive genious but it just seems that I have bad luck when it comes to this car restoration thing. And now my other toy(80' Caprice LS1) wants to start screwing up but I at least was able to get it going on my own without a shops input.

 

It's not that. It's that from dealerships to performance shops these days are nothing more than clown houses full of **** suckers who take your money however they can get it since they may know about as much as you, or in most cases, less. Best advice is to do as much yourself as possible.

 

Sadly a lot of shops don't offer what is best for the customer anymore, they offer the parts that they get the most profit from, by the manufacturer who gives them the biggest discounts. Then they install them as quick as they can and quote an off the wall labor rate, like 2 hours to install a CAI or something .

Not all shops are like that, but its best to do a lot of research and talk to others who have used them before committing your car to a big expensive build.

 

I will throw one more simple thing for you to check, I ran into it when I rebuilt my motor and tucked my wiring harness, make sure your MAF wires are NOT anywhere near any Ignition wires, either the coil wire of the spark plug wires. Even though they are shielded, they will create interference with the MAF signal and cause the motor to run poorly, especially at higher RPM where the MAF is reading more and there is more spark energy. I was lucky enough to read about it on a forum, moved my wires and the problem was solved. I would be surprised if you have the same problem, but it's something simple to check.

Good luck!
Bill

 

Thanks for tip X-Wild-Bill-X, I'm going to check that as well and rewrap the shielding with Gorilla tape just to be sure. Btw, I scanned the pcm and it showed the rear O2's arent being used. I'll be taking it back to the tuner in the morning, hopefully this time will be a charm. Thanks again guys for all the support.